I snapped a chain

[BobL]

The "whirring" sound could have been somthing simple as well. Like a chain that was too tight.

If the chain has been over stretched the sound of the drive links slapping the font/back of the sprocket will also make a whirring sound.

 

[Brmorgan]

Drive spur is chewed ta hell from running the chain too tight/loose, and bound up busting the chain.

Swap out the spur, clean the trash out of the bar groove, put on a new chain and go cut something.

That noise will go away.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

That's what I'm leaning towards too. My uncle brought me his Poulan once saying that the chain just wouldn't go around anymore; it would turn maybe 2/3 and then lock right up. He thought he'd half-seized the engine. I looked at the spur sprocket and it was so worn that two or three teeth had snapped right off, so the chain would bind up on itself as it tried to go around.

Honestly I have no idea why they still MAKE spur sprockets. They're absolute POS with no benefits I can think of. I'd rather have a non-replaceable rim sprocket drum.

One thing that's easy to do with those Poulan saws is get the wrong pitch of chain for the saw, especially if you go buy those pre-packaged chains at a big-box store. Most of the "smaller" Poulans use 3/8" pitch low-profile chain, while the larger ~46cc ones use .325 chisel chain. The packages all say "Poulan" on them though, at least up here, and don't really give model specifics. I've known at least three people to put the wrong pitch of chain on a Poulan this way, which will definitely snap the chain eventually since a 3/8" sprocket will really wear and stretch a .325 chain quite fast, and will also make a heck of a noise doing it most times.

 

[rarefish383]

I've been running saws for over 40 years, and just a couple months ago I put the wrong chain on my Stihl Farm Boss. I ran in an Ace Hardware and grabbed a chain marked 18" Stihl. Got on the wood pile and the thing made one heck of a whirring noise. I took a quick look and the chain was not sitting all of the way down in the groove around the bar tip. OOPS, wrong chain, Joe.

 

[s37d]

Hi guys. It's the right chain for it, the saw's model number is listed on the back of the package.

I see what you're talking about when you say the sprocket now. It's like a clutch bell...clutch shoes fly out and make contact with the inside of it.

As far as the chain being too tight, I'm not sure if it was or wasn't. I followed some tutorial I watched that said to tighten it until you can just barely pull the chain out from the bar groove when using moderate force. I also made sure to check after a few cuts if the chain had loosened at all, because I remembered reading that new chains(which it was), tend to loosen quickly when first used.

I'll get pics eventually just need to get a cable to attach my phone to pc. I've been splitting wood all day today - the wood that I cut the other day - took a few hours. It all split pretty easy, only had to use the maul about 20% of the time, everything else split with one or two axe strokes. I don't even use a wedge when splitting wood. I'm not really a big guy so to hold a wedge in one hand and a maul in the other is overload for me. All in all I ended up with about 3/4 of a cord stacked up, it looks and smells good. I stacked it in my (heated)garage so hopefully it will dry faster than if I had stacked it outside, and be ready for the fall. The hardwood split faster/easier than the softwood, which surprised me. Does freshly cut wood split easier than wood that's been sitting around for awhile?

 

[BobL]

Hi guys. It's the right chain for it, the saw's model number is listed on the back of the package.

That doesn't mean much. Just about all saws will drive most chains but that doesn't mean it will match your bar and sprocket set up on your saw.

The pitch (between any three consecutive rivets, divided by two. eg 1/4", 0.325", 0.375 etc) and gauge (thickness of drive links eg 0.050, 0.058, 0.063 etc) must match the bar and drive sprocket otherwise the chain can break.

 

[s37d]

I see, I just figured that if my saw's model number was listed on the back of the chains package then the chain manufacturer would have already checked all that to make sure it matches up.

 

[jimdad07]

Geesh you guys respond faster than any other forum I've been on.

First off I meant to post in the chainsaw forum sorry bout that. Secondly thanks for the responses.

Daninvan - ok I will buy a file and guide, any specific brand or will even the cheap home depot brand do? Those are good pics thanks, I'll do a thorough cleaning and inspect everything tomorrow.

BobL - Like I said, I'm very new...the sprocket is the piece that's on the end of the bar and guides that end of the chain around right? How often does it need to be changed? I haven't changed it yet. It's a new saw I've only put about probably 3-5 hours of cutting into it interchanging between 3 different chains.

CPO - Yeah I've watched a few videos, I just need to get the tools so I can start practicing.

issaccarlson - How often do you need to clean these holes and where are they located? You just push the crud out with a twig or something?

I will post some pics tomorrow and get the gauge/pitch for you mtngun. TY again everyone.

Could be better that you posted over here. You say the phrase "$99 Poulan and Home Depot" on the other forum and you might get your pee pee slapped pretty good. It is a very good skill to have being able to sharpen a chain by hand. To me nothing works better than a good round file, its also a good feeling to know you can do it. I touch up my chain every time I fill the gas and bar oil. It saves me a lot of time on sharpening in the long run. Once in a while I will take it to the nearest saw shop and have it sharpened to bring back a completely uniform edge.
Good luck and welcome to AS, the best forum site on the whole internet with the best people.

 

[BobL]

Could be better that you posted over here. You say the phrase "$99 Poulan and Home Depot" on the other forum and you might get your pee pee slapped pretty good.

The first time I posted something those guys didn't like (ie please stay on topic and stop with the "STEEHL" - "HUSKIEE" shouting matches) I got more than my pee pee slapped. Anyway - they're actually a pretty harmless bunch if you stare em down and have a big salt shaker in your hand.

 

[jimdad07]

The first time I posted something those guys didn't like (ie please stay on topic and stop with the "STEEHL" - "HUSKIEE" shouting matches) I got more than my pee pee slapped. Anyway - they're actually a pretty harmless bunch if you stare em down and have a big salt shaker in your hand.

I keep holy water and a necklace of garlic on hand when I am on the chainsaw forum, so far so good.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Philbert]

Hi I'm a new member and I have a couple things to share and some questions.

Welcome to A.S.!

I'm just a tree noob with my little Poulan 18" $99 saw . . . The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. I. . . It's a Power Care from Home Depot.

There are quality differences between saws. However, the chain is the most important part. Sharp chain on a small or inexpensive saw will cut better than a dull chain on a big or expensive saw.

You should absolutely take the chain back to Home Depot. This is a safety issue they need to know about. Since it is their exclusive brand they will replace it. Ask for a manager if you get any flak.

That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). If you are buying a few things you might also want to check out some of the chains sold by A.S. sponsors (usually not worth the additional shipping costs for just one chain).

While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.

2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting?

Not unusual. Depends on the saw, the size of the tank, and what you are cutting. Newer saws and smaller saws use less fuel. What is important to remember is that the fuel and bar oil tanks are usually balanced: any time you add fuel, make sure to re-fill the bar oil tank.

3. Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand . . .

There are lots of ways to sharpen a chain. It's not that complicated, but can be confusing if you try to follow all the different ways at once. Choose one and take your time to develop some skill at it. It is usually helpful to start with some type of guide instead of freehand, and to have someone show you. There are file guides and Dremel guides.

Be careful about the stuff on YouTube - some of it is just bad. This one from STIHL is pretty good for filing:
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

Philbert

 

[jimdad07]

Welcome to A.S.!



There are quality differences between saws. However, the chain is the most important part. Sharp chain on a small or inexpensive saw will cut better than a dull chain on a big or expensive saw.

You should absolutely take the chain back to Home Depot. This is a safety issue they need to know about. Since it is their exclusive brand they will replace it. Ask for a manager if you get any flak.

That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). If you are buying a few things you might also want to check out some of the chains sold by A.S. sponsors (usually not worth the additional shipping costs for just one chain).

While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.



Not unusual. Depends on the saw, the size of the tank, and what you are cutting. Newer saws and smaller saws use less fuel. What is important to remember is that the fuel and bar oil tanks are usually balanced: any time you add fuel, make sure to re-fill the bar oil tank.



There are lots of ways to sharpen a chain. It's not that complicated, but can be confusing if you try to follow all the different ways at once. Choose one and take your time to develop some skill at it. It is usually helpful to start with some type of guide instead of freehand, and to have someone show you. There are file guides and Dremel guides.

Be careful about the stuff on YouTube - some of it is just bad. This one from STIHL is pretty good for filing:
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

Philbert

I agree. Home Depot has its place for the guy who is just cutting every now and then, but if you are cutting wood for heat and want to get some years out of your equipment, may not be a bad idea to look around. Research a lot and make sure you try before you buy. On the other hand, don't underestimate your Poulan, take care of it and it will take care of you.

 

[s37d]

That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.Philbert

Yes there is a hardware store down the street that sells Husqvarna tools. I go in there once in awhile and always look at the saws, they're really nice, even to just look at...orange never looked so good. I can't afford a new one by any means, and truly I don't cut enough to warrant it, but they are very nice and maybe in the future I'll be able to purchase one. I'll have to go in there and see if they have some good chains. How do I know if the chain will fit my saw, what should I look for?

 

[isaaccarlson]

It will be stamped on the bar.

it will have the pitch, gauge, and length/drivers

 

[Philbert]

Yes there is a hardware store down the street that sells Husqvarna tools. I go in there once in awhile and always look at the saws, . . . How do I know if the chain will fit my saw, what should I look for?

Next time you go in there, bring your saw and ask a lot of questions!

Philbert

 

[Kicker_92]

As far as the chain being too tight, I'm not sure if it was or wasn't. I followed some tutorial I watched that said to tighten it until you can just barely pull the chain out from the bar groove when using moderate force.

You might be running the chain too tight, or pushing the saw too hard with a dull chain. Either one will put a lot of force on the chain. Sometimes the oilers on these saws don't work well, but if you're going through 1/2 tank of bar oil per tank of fuel you should be fine.

When they make a chain loop, there is allways a spun rivet joint. The joints are sometimes not made well, either not staight or not riveted properly. IF you post a picture of the chain break, someone here will identify it quick.

I'd agree that they should warranty the chain if it broke that quickly. And don't mind the Stihl / Husqvarna crowd, those Poulans can hold up for a little bit of firewood cutting. Just like it was pointed out, the key to a good saw is a sharp, well filed chain.

 

[s37d]

Hah, that's some nice wood Kicker, what kind is it? I want to post some pics of this wood that I recently split so you guys can identify it.

Is it ok to store freshly cut, green, bug-free, rot-free wood inside a heated garage? I figure if it's in a heated(60º+) dry garage it will season it in, say, half a year as opposed to a year.

 

[BobL]

Hah, that's some nice wood Kicker, what kind is it? I want to post some pics of this wood that I recently split so you guys can identify it.

Is it ok to store freshly cut, green, bug-free, rot-free wood inside a heated garage? I figure if it's in a heated(60º+) dry garage it will season it in, say, half a year as opposed to a year.

It depends how thick you cut it and how much air is exchanged with the outside air. The normal drying time in air outside is 1 year per inch. In a heated closed garage it may be a little quicker but only if you exchange moisture ladened air with dryer air at regular intervals. Not exchanging air can result in mould and fungus growing on the wood.

 

[Daninvan]

Not exchanging air can result in mould and fungus growing on the wood.

+1 on that!

I had to stop storing wood in the 'dry' garage, even with fans blowing on it there were mold problems. Now I stack it up under the eves beside the house with something on top to keep the rain off, the wind keeps the mold down.

Dan

 

[s37d]

I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if mold grows. It's right next to a radiator so it should be pretty dry, but we'll see. If it gets moldy or critter/bug-infested, I'll have to build an open-sided shed of some sorts and stack it under that outside.

 

[SilverBox]

skimmed this thread, I know i'm weighing in late.


PowerCare from HD is junk. It will only take about 2 horse. I've snapped a couple. On a 2.5 horse saw, never even got to sharpen it before it snapped.

This is not in any way the users fault or some problem with his saw.

Powercare chain is complete total garbage, the longest I've seen one of these chains (3/8 LP) last is filed down about halfway on a 1.8hp saw.

and one last time POWERCARE IS JUNK.