I split something other than wood!

[MacAttack]

I don't think JB Weld on it's own will fix that, and I love JB Weld. It's going to leak past the drain plug.
I would agree with the suggestions to either have it tig welded or JB weld a plug in it and remove oil out the filler.

 

[Okie]

Every thing about a Honda engine is expensive except for a replacement carb.
Good engines and last a long time with just little bit of TLC.
Really a shame that the block split due to over tightening.
I've seen stripped oil drain plugs in auto's, then they would try the next larger or two times larger and cross thread it. Usually happens by Wal-Mart grease Monkeys.
If Wal-Mart employees strip one out they usually will just let it go out the doors stripped out and hope it's not noticed for awhile.
I do not let them Wal-Mart grease monkeys even touch my vec's, would not even let them clean my windows or air up a tire.
Them guys can get dookey on their elbows when trying to wipe.

 

[Cambium]

Update: After 2 failed attempts using the JB Weld and trying to thread the drain plug back, I decided to cement it in with the JB Weld. No leaks!

However, I guess the test will be when the thing is vibrating and the oil is warm. Dont laugh at my work. I'm not a mechanic or good with this stuff. LOL

I also hope the JB weld inside the threads wont break apart and get into the oil inside. Should I be worried about that since there is no oil filter to catch any particles?

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I crushed two cars or SUVs with my splitter a few weeks ago. My renter abandoned two vehicles so what was I going to do. I welded a section of a leaf spring on the wedge and started crushing sections of the car. I was amazed at how efficient 70,000 lbs will crumble sections of chassis and fenders to ball of scrap steel. We cannot dispose of any vehicle with out a clear title here so the metal yard will have no problem taking chunks of crushed metal. Thanks

 

[gumneck]

Replacement sumps aren't that expensive on the bay and it would be a good project for the dark times(winter). Unless you can tig it...I'd just try this for the experience/learnin.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304001541428?epid=11012075645&hash=item46c7e76534:g:JdsAAOSwHd5go8Uq

 

[torch]

I've heard of JB weld being used to repair deeply scored cylinder walls. If it can do that, I imagine it can hold your drain plug in.

 

[Okie]

I've heard of JB weld being used to repair deeply scored cylinder walls. If it can do that, I imagine it can hold your drain plug in.

IMHO:
I've seen lots of JB weld failures. I would have to see the results of that one after it's been used awhile.
J.B. has different types for different purposes, I've seen it fail on some of it's purposes per the instructions.
I sure would not trust J.B. weld for a long term fix on a scored cylinder wall.

Sometimes all I have to offer is experience.

 

[Cambium]

IMHO:
I've seen lots of JB weld failures. I would have to see the results of that one after it's been used awhile.
J.B. has different types for different purposes, I've seen it fail on some of it's purposes per the instructions.
I sure would not trust J.B. weld for a long term fix on a scored cylinder wall.

Sometimes all I have to offer is experience.

I Finally got a chance to bring the thing out and try it. I drained the oil for the 5th time and put fresh oil. I actually used the fill port to drain it.

So far so good! Ran like a puppy and no leaks! I only ran it for a couple minutes though. I will try to remember to update this thread after I used it for a while. Crossing fingers.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

From what I have seen it looks like an easy weld job. I would not tear it down but clean the area near the crack and go. Turn up the heat a bit though. Once welded I would drill a much smaller hole as the original plug hole is way to large. Thanks

 

[Cambium]

1 yr update... Just didn't last. I think I got 10 hours out of it before it started leaking again. So I decided to stuff a bunch of JB Weld into the drain hole, held up for 5 minutes and still started leaking. Not worth the time anymore. Gotta find a new motor now.

This is what I used.



Need to find something to replace this Honda motor

 

[Cambium]

I found this for just $262 but its a GCV190cm. Why couldn't I use that to replace my GCV160?

https://www.rcpw.com/equipment/hond...-5NLHkyHx_5wCswMSaDOkWEKxkBmeX60aAo21EALw_wcB
EDIT:: Designation numbers are not the same they said so it wouldn't work. :-(

Let me call them about this one for $429
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...f7jE7_lrWNicDi874NMaAggzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
EDIT:: She said this one has a light flywheel and may not work for me, its more for mowers. Ugh

 

[PEK]

A vacuum pump for oil changes has been one of my best investments. Haven't removed a small engine drain plug since the early 80's.

I will second that, got my fluid evacuator over 25 years ago and makes oil changes so easy on mower, generator and rotorvator even use it on chainsaws. Good bit of kit.

 

[Okie]

Read post number 2.
Take the engine to someone that is good at welding aluminum.

You do not need a drain plug, just weld it closed. some Honda engines do not even have a drain plug. To change the oil use a suction into the oil filler cap.

Or go to a HF Predator engine as a last ditch effort. (which I seen quite a few do) The predators are Honda clones. Keep a heads up about shaft configuration sizes.

Also keep in mind that welding with the sump in place on the block may cause the sump gasket and the PTO seal to fail .The welder will have to be careful and not overheat the sump, weld and let it cool, then weld again.

Other option is to remove the sump then bolt it down in several places to a piece of flat steel plate to reduce chance of warpage then weld little bit at a time.
When going back with the sump use new gasket and Yamaha bond and let the Yamaha bond dry cure overnight before adding engine oil. Then install new PTO crank seal.
This might save you some big bucks on a new Honda replacement engine.

 

[sean donato]

Why not just buy a new sump for it? These things are pretty darn easy to pop apart and work on.

 

[sean donato]

Read post number 2.
Take the engine to someone that is good at welding aluminum.

You do not need a drain plug, just weld it closed. some Honda engines do not even have a drain plug. To change the oil use a suction into the oil filler cap.

Or go to a HF Predator engine as a last ditch effort. (which I seen quite a few do) The predators are Honda clones. Keep a heads up about shaft configuration sizes.

Also keep in mind that welding with the sump in place on the block may cause the sump gasket and the PTO seal to fail .The welder will have to be careful and not overheat the sump, weld and let it cool, then weld again.

Other option is to remove the sump then bolt it down in several places to a piece of flat steel plate to reduce chance of warpage then weld little bit at a time.
When going back with the sump use new gasket and Yamaha bond and let the Yamaha bond dry cure overnight before adding engine oil. Then install new PTO crank seal.
This might save you some big bucks on a new Honda replacement engine.

I'm like 90% sure these just get sealer on the case halves and no gasket.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

@sean donato is correct, any Hondas I worked on at the dealership only had sealer, no gasket, most everything on them is pretty cheap comparatively speaking, and very simple.