I'm a big fan of the chain brake on Stihl chainsaws.

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Here is a picture for comparison:
2010-11-21_08-16-25_725.jpg

2010-11-21_08-15-55_170.jpg


See how the brake placement is considerably closer to the wrap handle? That allows much easier manipulation of the brake for me. That is a big plus for my preferences. I'm a big guy and have big hands, but on the Husky I can't hold the wrap handle and use just one finger to disengage the brake, but with the stihl I can, and I really have grown to like that feature.

Here is another picture just because the saws look good on the floor:
2010-11-21_08-16-09_725.jpg

This is a great post, and I noticed the same thing recently when playing around with an MS460. I have always run Huskys, Dolmars, and Jonsereds, and the brake is definitely a lot farther away from the handle. I am a bit set in my ways, and I felt cramped when wearing winter gloves with the 460. I am not one who uses the brake a lot. If the chain is tight and the idle is set right, the chain doesn't move at idle, so I don't mind moving around with the brake off. Having the brake handle close is for sure a bit safer, as it will trip faster on a kick back.
 
Are you sure the chainbrake is tripped on the Stihl in that pic?
 
"Sideways balance" can only be "splained by Niko.

It seems the 346 has the nod according to him.

If you are limbing the way you should do it, standing on the left side of the tree, always letting the saw rest on the trunc, using you legs to get the saw fully horizontal for the limbs pointing upwards etc.. (search for a vid from wlc or something). So not the US version standing on the trunc with a MS290 with you back straight using the tip of a 32 inch bar to cut the limbs off..., then you will notice the "sideways balance". A smaller saw body and b/c closer to the center thanks to an outboard clutch is superior when limbing. The drawback is that some people find changing chain tricky and that chip clearance can be negatively affected for noodling. (In production applications though, you more often limb than noodle)


Regarding the chain break, having it close to the handle bar (Stihl design) will of course make it easier to activate with the back of your hand before starting walking away with your saw. On the other hand it also makes it easier to unintentinally activate it at the end of a cut when bucking a trunc close to the ground.
 
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Yikes! this was a tough one to read through, I think it depends on the saw/saws your comparing, I have used both and both seem to work well. I always kill the saw just after Im done with it and keep the bartip clear of any trouble and never experienced a kickback, If I did I would suspect the angle of the Husqvarna front handle might save my face from a bad kickback. I like to take the rackers down a bit on my chains when I use a short bar to buck up 20" and slightly under wood, but I don't cut any small limbs with those chains. I would rather kill the saw than turn the brake on after Im done cutting, I think it is safer imo.
 
The chain brake was designed for kick back safety. I'm glad my saws have them, but years go by without the brake ever tripping and then it's usually because a limb hit it. :)
 
You should get a Stihl Q model, the chain brake activates any time your hand is not on the throttle.

Trust me, I looked at every stihl dealer locally, none of them were interested in selling anything that wasn't on their showroom floor. I was trying to get the MS280c-q, but settled on the ms280.

E'splain me "sideways balance"...

Gary
I thought that was just the 'forum joke' about husky saws.
 
This is a great post, and I noticed the same thing recently when playing around with an MS460. I have always run Huskys, Dolmars, and Jonsereds, and the brake is definitely a lot farther away from the handle. I am a bit set in my ways, and I felt cramped when wearing winter gloves with the 460. I am not one who uses the brake a lot. If the chain is tight and the idle is set right, the chain doesn't move at idle, so I don't mind moving around with the brake off. Having the brake handle close is for sure a bit safer, as it will trip faster on a kick back.

Glad someone else can see my point of view.

Awesome: it doesn`t run but look how great it stops !

lol
j/k
is it 280 plain or 280-I?
the -I was awarded with gold medal for inovation (can`t remember by who or when or what was the inovation)

Oh it's the IEM microprocessor controlled pieso-electric solenoid on the carb version. I was very excited about this aspect of the saw.
 

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