Im looking at a minimill....
- Thread starter axlr8
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
StephenA
ArboristSite Lurker
First off, the small log mill is different from the mini mill. I'm assuming you are talking about the small log mill since that's the picture you posted.
I have one of those and I've used it for milling the floors and inner walls of my cabin. I used a husqvarna 450 with an 18" bar.
The mill has worked pretty good for me. Because of the single post design, I noticed its wants to wander a bit more than a full sized mill. Its light enough and not as bulky as using a full sized Alaskan mill. A huge plus, its quick to change cutting depths.
The instructions say its for a 20' bar max, but I have used my 32" sthil on rare occasions.
Strangely enough, Granburg uses a different system for mounting this to the saw than the regular mill. It has two bolts that tighten directly onto the bar. You want to keep a close eye on it when you first put it on the bar so you don't crush the bar rails.
It will put small dimples in your bar, but it won't affect anything.
As I said, the Small log mill worked well for me. Well enough that I bought the 36" version as well.
I do have the Mini Mill as well. I don't use that as much. I get far more accurate cuts from the small mill. Also that really throws sawdust up in the air. Besides the helmet/mask combo, be ready to wear a dust mask as well and try to get upwind. I also like a hooded sweatshirt to keep the chip from going down my neck.
Hope that helps.
I have one of those and I've used it for milling the floors and inner walls of my cabin. I used a husqvarna 450 with an 18" bar.
The mill has worked pretty good for me. Because of the single post design, I noticed its wants to wander a bit more than a full sized mill. Its light enough and not as bulky as using a full sized Alaskan mill. A huge plus, its quick to change cutting depths.
The instructions say its for a 20' bar max, but I have used my 32" sthil on rare occasions.
Strangely enough, Granburg uses a different system for mounting this to the saw than the regular mill. It has two bolts that tighten directly onto the bar. You want to keep a close eye on it when you first put it on the bar so you don't crush the bar rails.
It will put small dimples in your bar, but it won't affect anything.
As I said, the Small log mill worked well for me. Well enough that I bought the 36" version as well.
I do have the Mini Mill as well. I don't use that as much. I get far more accurate cuts from the small mill. Also that really throws sawdust up in the air. Besides the helmet/mask combo, be ready to wear a dust mask as well and try to get upwind. I also like a hooded sweatshirt to keep the chip from going down my neck.
Hope that helps.
StephenA
ArboristSite Lurker
When it's wandered on me, I'll have a plank that is 2" on one side and 1.5" on the other. I will admit that most of that is operator error. However, the tip can drift up or down a little because there is nothing to hold it rigid.
Oh yes, I also pull up a little on the saw as I'm cutting. the weight of the saw will cause the bar tip to wander as well. Again, that's operator error, and not the fault of the mill.
If you can find a copy of "Chainsaw Lumber Making" by Will Malloff, You will love it. He really answers a lot of questions about milling. Even how to mill a round table top...
Milling is hard on a saw. Get the largest you can afford. I just upgraded to a sthil MS660. Its cut my milling time in half. (no pun intended!) Keep that air filter clean!
Oh yes, I also pull up a little on the saw as I'm cutting. the weight of the saw will cause the bar tip to wander as well. Again, that's operator error, and not the fault of the mill.
If you can find a copy of "Chainsaw Lumber Making" by Will Malloff, You will love it. He really answers a lot of questions about milling. Even how to mill a round table top...
Milling is hard on a saw. Get the largest you can afford. I just upgraded to a sthil MS660. Its cut my milling time in half. (no pun intended!) Keep that air filter clean!
What do you plan on cutting and what size? With that info you can correctly size a saw for it (if that's all you want the saw for) and also get a better idea if you need this or an actual Alaskan style mill.
It sounds to me that if you want to mill small logs, the most you'd need is maybe something like an MS440... that may even be overkill.
I have a big MS880 for the Alaskan mill and a 200-series saw for the homemade lumber maker (mini-mill).
It sounds to me that if you want to mill small logs, the most you'd need is maybe something like an MS440... that may even be overkill.
I have a big MS880 for the Alaskan mill and a 200-series saw for the homemade lumber maker (mini-mill).
Hillbilly3995
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you have the required aptitude to mill lumber I suspect you are probably capable of building your own Alaskan type mill on the cheap. That said, get the BIGGEST saw you can afford. I really dont think you can have too much power while milling, period. the 056 may well get you started, but you'll want something bigger if you do much milling.
Doss, you need some rep, hold on to your socks.
Doss, you need some rep, hold on to your socks.
Holding on firmly to my socks
axlr8, the 056 Mag II should be fine, but beware of their ignitions not working and the mufflers cracking. I don't know if you've had to order a part to fix a Stihl saw before, but I ordered a chain tensioner for my MS880 and it took two weeks to come over from Europe (at least I'm hoping that's where it came from). I can't imagine how hard it's going to be to track down parts for an 056. There are guys that love those saws, but there aren't any new parts really being made for them that I know of.
On the plus side, if you can find one in excellent condition, I think it actually puts out the same horsepower as the newer 660 (the torque may be a different story though I think they are about the same displacement) and it'll probably be a lot cheaper. I don't know how it compares with a long bar on there though.
On 25-30" trees, you're going to be pushing an older saw pretty hard. Keep that in mind. If that saw breaks, how long are you going to have to wait to get it running again? Just a thought.
no worries, i work at a shop and can get parts VERY easily.....but that can be accounted for money aswell! the 056 Mag II would just be to start with, im looking to build a large ported stihl or husky, somthing with nasty guts......there comes the $$ problem again....
Similar threads
