Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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so should i not consider the drolet with the problems its having?
I would say hell no but others will feel differently. If you are prepared to make modifications, not use the ash pan, and don't have over 25 feet of duct, it's a good furnace. If you want something to work as intended right out of the crate then this isn't for you.​
 
Bad news = my air intake door motor died. Good news = SBI shipped a new motor with ash pan fix, hopefully today.
 
Bad news = my air intake door motor died. Good news = SBI shipped a new motor with ash pan fix, hopefully today.

Most likely because they got the cheapest air intake door motor possible. Glad they are taking care of you. It took them over a month to send me a new baffle board. Let us know when you get your part.
 
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It's a Honeywell unit . I don't think there is a better one produced then Honeywell
 
Sbi just called me had a good 30 minute conversation about the unit and retrofit which is being shipped as we speak. . All new units being made now will have the ash drawer redesigned and fixed . The retro fit will be easy and does not require a welder ..just a hammer . I'm told this will seal off the area and has been tested. I think around the blower there is also a new adapter plate or something
I'm pleased with how they handled this they are correcting literature as well . Price will remain the same on new models that have the minor changes
 
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Got called from SBI today and they are shipping the ash pan fix this Friday. Had a good experience talking to him. Also spoke about the fan snap switch. He informed it was set to those temps so the furnace wouldn't cycle to much. Like I said had a good conversation with him and again like to thank the guys on this forum for bringing the ash pan problem out. I don't use mine but who knows probably would have tried it. Over all I like the tundra and am happy with it.
 
Mine has a minimal brown, light, dusty coating. I also just cleaned my 27' flue after a month of burning and I had maybe 1/2 cup of dry buildup. Not bad considering I don't burn as hot as I could.
 
How much wood do you put in your tundra? What is the lenght and diamiter to get a six hour burn. I have oak and ash. Do you fill it to the top or half? My stack hemos are around 450 until the fan kicks on. Anyone thanks.
 
How much wood do you put in your tundra? What is the lenght and diamiter to get a six hour burn. I have oak and ash. Do you fill it to the top or half? My stack hemos are around 450 until the fan kicks on. Anyone thanks.
 
How much wood do you put in your tundra? What is the lenght and diamiter to get a six hour burn. I have oak and ash. Do you fill it to the top or half? My stack hemos are around 450 until the fan kicks on. Anyone thanks.

You must be running their factory high temp snap disk is why it does that I'd ditch that run a 110 on and 90 off switch instead and you'll get way more heat and longer burns . Much improved comfort. .. You must realize this designs keeps all the heat in the unit but if your burning less than desirable moisture it's going to keep in all the gunk and creosote too . Only takes 30 seconds to clean the heat exchanger so don't wait around till it's gross and full of crap clean every few days and of coarse good seasoned wood won't even cause it in the first place . You said oak and oak takes an eternity to season correctly for this unit. These are really picky about moisture more so than my other EPA stoves I've ran .
The difference in half seasoned wood most people burn and properly low moisture seasoned wood this unit needs is amazing . You'll get so much more secondary action and so much more overall heat if your burning primo dry wood in it . It's a bit of a burden to need to have such dry fuel but the benefits and operation are well worth it
 
If I have a few pieces of wood that aren't perfectly seasoned I struggle to heat my house to 70 and for only about 4 hrs. If I fill the box with dry seasoned wood I go up to 72 plus and burn for 6 plus hours. And the snap disk change out is a must. It's been a struggle because I didn't prep well enough this year. When it burns well it rocks. Easly half the amount of wood.
 
I received the ash drawer "fix" today and installed. First off my drawer and drawer receptacle arrived bent. Second, the fix is useless. I get air blowing into the fire box up through the plug hole.
 
I got my box today but haven't installed it. . It's a ash drawer inside an ash drawer in essence . Mine arrived fine .looks like a good idea for a simple fix but that's yet to be determined till I install it . I'm assuming your basing that assumption on when you jostle or lift on the plug you see a flurry of sparks go up and see light up .id be cautious before you say for sure that it's the blower causing that For certain because any Air introduced up through the plug hole when it's open is fresh air rushing in and will look like it's forced when in reality it's just the separate chambered trapped air being introduced below the fire .from the looks of it theres no way the blower could do that . from a design aspect I don't see how this couldn't seal and fix it . It's a separate sealed up steel sleeve that replaces the ash drawer and gasket and sealing flange
 
A picture of the new design
 

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Flotek, I didn't touch the plug. I simply bypassed the thermostat to force the fan on and placed a few shovel scoops of fine ashes over the plug. The ashes were constantly blown around from the plug area. I guess I can post a YouTube video later tonight.
 
I'll install mine and see how it does. . Sounds like a plug sealing issue . You gotta hammer the tabs down to seal it maybe the tabs are not far enough hit down on your flange and you get clearance play which makes sense .. just a thought
 
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