alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is the pump pinion an enternal part on the Jonsered 2159T?
Al
Al
Is it a saw tear down?
- Thread starter alleyyooper
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alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Refurs to the chain oiler pump.
Al
Al
Looks like there is a worm gear that drives the oil pump. To get it apart your going to have to take a two foot length of clothesline or old pull starter cord and tie a few half hitches in it. About six should be enough. Take the spark plug out and watch the piston as you cycle it over with your hand. As the piston is moving up and is past the exhaust port, feed the rope in thru the plug hole. Your using this rope as a piston stop.
Grab the clutch with a pin wrench or a clutch removal tool and turn it clockwise. You can often make yourself a clutch tool with a grinder and an old deep well socket. Reverse threads turn clockwise to loosen. Once you break the clutch loose on the crank threads rotate the spider off.
Under the sprocket drum will be a caged needle bearing, slide it off the crank and put it aside with the drum. Remove the oil pump cover screws and there is the oil pump. Generally there is a worm gear that runs the pump and it slides onto the crank as well. Some worm gears are 'sweat' to the crank with heat like some of the Echo's and some are plastic like Poulan or brass like an older Stihl. It depends on which model and year. Your welcome to send me an email address and I will forward a manual for you to look at the pics. Its not that hard to do but it will take a couple of hours if your not familiar with how these go together.
Have you tried to adjust the pump or are you just not getting any oil at all? Sometimes the oil access holes on the bar will close up with sawdust and this will prevent you from getting any oil to the chain. Take the bar off and squirt this side out with your garden hose. Let it sit in the sun for an hour and then start it. Watch the slot in the bar plate for drips after you fill the oil tank and try to turn the oiler up. Let the saw sit there and idle for a couple of minutes and watch it with the side cover off. You should see some oil coming out and if you are afraid that you wont be able to see the clear oil, substitute auto trans fluid because its dark red.
Best wishes,
Bob
Grab the clutch with a pin wrench or a clutch removal tool and turn it clockwise. You can often make yourself a clutch tool with a grinder and an old deep well socket. Reverse threads turn clockwise to loosen. Once you break the clutch loose on the crank threads rotate the spider off.
Under the sprocket drum will be a caged needle bearing, slide it off the crank and put it aside with the drum. Remove the oil pump cover screws and there is the oil pump. Generally there is a worm gear that runs the pump and it slides onto the crank as well. Some worm gears are 'sweat' to the crank with heat like some of the Echo's and some are plastic like Poulan or brass like an older Stihl. It depends on which model and year. Your welcome to send me an email address and I will forward a manual for you to look at the pics. Its not that hard to do but it will take a couple of hours if your not familiar with how these go together.
Have you tried to adjust the pump or are you just not getting any oil at all? Sometimes the oil access holes on the bar will close up with sawdust and this will prevent you from getting any oil to the chain. Take the bar off and squirt this side out with your garden hose. Let it sit in the sun for an hour and then start it. Watch the slot in the bar plate for drips after you fill the oil tank and try to turn the oiler up. Let the saw sit there and idle for a couple of minutes and watch it with the side cover off. You should see some oil coming out and if you are afraid that you wont be able to see the clear oil, substitute auto trans fluid because its dark red.
Best wishes,
Bob
timberjack
ArboristSite Lurker
Bob's got just about everything down. It's been a year since i had to fiddle with the oil pump on my saws.
I would add that my 2159's do not like to pump heavy/summer chain oil anytime. I use winter oil year round in those saws, and even cut it with about 25% diesel fuel in the coldest part of the winter. I have my pumps turned right up to the maximum as well.
As for the pump pinion, i don't believe you have to split the saw case, but without taking the clutch off one of mine to look for certain, i won't guarantee my opinion. lol
What was the trouble with your oiling? More details please.
One other tip i've done with success many times on my 2159's. I never had to "rope" the cylinder. I just use a brass drift (punch) and hit the clutch in a clockwise motion swiftly, and it loosens easily. I don't have the clutch tool, nor the cylinder stopper. Just don't use a steel punch, or you'll probably be buying a new clutch too.
Ken
I would add that my 2159's do not like to pump heavy/summer chain oil anytime. I use winter oil year round in those saws, and even cut it with about 25% diesel fuel in the coldest part of the winter. I have my pumps turned right up to the maximum as well.
As for the pump pinion, i don't believe you have to split the saw case, but without taking the clutch off one of mine to look for certain, i won't guarantee my opinion. lol
What was the trouble with your oiling? More details please.
One other tip i've done with success many times on my 2159's. I never had to "rope" the cylinder. I just use a brass drift (punch) and hit the clutch in a clockwise motion swiftly, and it loosens easily. I don't have the clutch tool, nor the cylinder stopper. Just don't use a steel punch, or you'll probably be buying a new clutch too.
Ken
alleyyooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
"Have you tried to adjust the pump or are you just not getting any oil at all? "
Yes I have, I also have dumped out the summer blend of bar oil (all I use in all my saws) and filled it with auto trans fulid.
"Sometimes the oil access holes on the bar will close up with sawdust and this will prevent you from getting any oil to the chain."
I though that was the problem at first too. I use a 5 in 1 tool to clean out the bar rail and a soft copper wire to clean the oil access hole in the bar and spray it with brake cleaner for good measure.
"You should see some oil coming out and if you are afraid that you wont be able to see the clear oil, substitute auto trans fluid because its dark red."
Did this test long ago.
Figured some thing with the oil pump was bad but with out a IPL or service manual I didn't know if I would have to split the case or not.
Thank you both so much for the help.
I also will probably cut thickness of the chain oil for this saw in the future.
Al
Yes I have, I also have dumped out the summer blend of bar oil (all I use in all my saws) and filled it with auto trans fulid.
"Sometimes the oil access holes on the bar will close up with sawdust and this will prevent you from getting any oil to the chain."
I though that was the problem at first too. I use a 5 in 1 tool to clean out the bar rail and a soft copper wire to clean the oil access hole in the bar and spray it with brake cleaner for good measure.
"You should see some oil coming out and if you are afraid that you wont be able to see the clear oil, substitute auto trans fluid because its dark red."
Did this test long ago.
Figured some thing with the oil pump was bad but with out a IPL or service manual I didn't know if I would have to split the case or not.
Thank you both so much for the help.
I also will probably cut thickness of the chain oil for this saw in the future.
Al
