Is my new saw supposed to do this??

[RiverRat2]

Yep u R right!!!!! the rakers determine how deep the cutters work into the wood

Rakers?(i am assuming some part of the chain)... I haven't sharpened the chain yet. I don't know how to use a file to sharpen the chain BUT the shop i purchased the saw from told me to come back and they would teach me. He is a friend of the family.

Stew

they also are actually called depth gauges, and serve another function which aid in chip flow from the gullet of cutter in front of it, raking it along the kerf keeping the kerf clear and keeing the cutter from diving into the side of the wall of the kerf,,, thus the name raker is easier to say than depth guages LOL!!!, the right raker height is important and there are filing guides available to help you keep them @ the right height they work in tandem with the cutter,, Also very important and often overlooked,,, Check the bar rails keep em square with a occasional touch up w/flat file, make sure it is straight & true, keep the groove clean and the oil holes clean, flip it over every other sharpening or every other day to keep the rail wear even,,, check your sprocket for wear also... If you can put a rim sprocket setup on your saw go for it,,, they are cheaper and easier to change than a spur sprocket!!!!!!!!! get in the habit of making sure the chain is getting enough oil regularly also!!!!
You have been given all the direction You need,,,, and the most important part of any saw is a very sharp chain,,, if you keep your chains well oiled, sharp, bar good, your saw wont have to work so hard,,,, Try your best to keep it out of the dirt...
So take your friends offer seriously and learn well if you are serious... your chains/bars are the life of your saws

River

 

[DGG]

BINGO! Dull chain maybe! When you run your finger over the cutter does it grab it or does it just slide off? Are you getting good sized chips or sawdust when cutting?

What kind of bar and chain are you running? The reason I'm asking is the picture looks like the bar says Stihl. I'm wondering if the chain is being oiled properly.

Toss a new chain on it and see how it does.

I have a Husky 55 but don't use the spikes too much. I don't dig them into the wood before I start cutting. I rest them against the wood and rotate the saw about them. It seems to me they are more useful as an anti-kickback feature more than anything.

From your description it sounds like the saw is reving up fine. Have you changed the fuel and air filters and replaced the spark plug? Cheap, easly maintenance that can make a big difference in performance.

 

[shawn.m]

the 55 is a great saw but it will bog if lean on when the chain is sharp in hard wood. Mine does this all the time. Especially with a sharp chain.
Previous advice is great. just let it work and watch how much wood it will chew through.

 

[blis]

BINGO! Dull chain maybe! When you run your finger over the cutter does it grab it or does it just slide off? Are you getting good sized chips or sawdust when cutting?

What kind of bar and chain are you running? The reason I'm asking is the picture looks like the bar says Stihl. I'm wondering if the chain is being oiled properly.

Toss a new chain on it and see how it does.

I have a Husky 55 but don't use the spikes too much. I don't dig them into the wood before I start cutting. I rest them against the wood and rotate the saw about them. It seems to me they are more useful as an anti-kickback feature more than anything.

From your description it sounds like the saw is reving up fine. Have you changed the fuel and air filters and replaced the spark plug? Cheap, easly maintenance that can make a big difference in performance.

Over here pro's throw away the spikes before they even fuel the saw, they just arent any good on small saws AND theres no reason to dog it in if the chain is sharp...

 

[SawTroll]

Saw is a brand new Husky 55. It has 3-4 tanks of mix through it last night and today. Has a full chisel chain/18in bar.

This is my first "real" chainsaw before this I borrowed my brothers Poulon Pro 46cc and a freinds generic saw.

The saw makes short work of everything i have put it to but when i put the bumper spike into the wood and go to rock the saw into the wood it bogs the saw down and quickly stops the chain. Is this from incorrect technique? It happens either in upright (like making the felling cut) Or while bucking wood on the ground. I have a feeling that it is from incorrect technique on my part and not so much the saw but you never know.

Fire away! and thanks for the help in advance.

Stew

I usually just remove the dawgs from my 60cc and smaller saws - and that is for a reason.........

 

[cruzer]

THe picture in this thread is not my saw.

my saw is brand new with about 3-4 tanks of fuel through it. Chain is whatever came on the saw. Chisel 3/8s 058 i believe. It is deffinitly sharp and i am deffinitly getting good chips. It's only when i dig the bumper spikes and try to rotate around them that i have a problem...but it seems thats because the saw is "underpowered" haha.

The feedback from this forum has been GREAT!

Other than the fact that the saw was bogging down when i dug the spikes in the saw has worked great and cut through wood no problem!

Stew

 

[newguy18]

I'm not sure but isn't the 51 the little btother of the 55?My saw never seemed to have a problem dogging up in a cut but I never leaned into it.

 

[logbutcher]

Read the Rat

they also are actually called depth gauges, and serve another function which aid in chip flow from the gullet of cutter in front of it, raking it along the kerf keeping the kerf clear and keeing the cutter from diving into the side of the wall of the kerf,,, thus the name raker is easier to say than depth guages LOL!!!, the right raker height is important and there are filing guides available to help you keep them @ the right height they work in tandem with the cutter,, Also very important and often overlooked,,, Check the bar rails keep em square with a occasional touch up w/flat file, make sure it is straight & true, keep the groove clean and the oil holes clean, flip it over every other sharpening or every other day to keep the rail wear even,,, check your sprocket for wear also... If you can put a rim sprocket setup on your saw go for it,,, they are cheaper and easier to change than a spur sprocket!!!!!!!!! get in the habit of making sure the chain is getting enough oil regularly also!!!!
You have been given all the direction You need,,,, and the most important part of any saw is a very sharp chain,,, if you keep your chains well oiled, sharp, bar good, your saw wont have to work so hard,,,, Try your best to keep it out of the dirt...
So take your friends offer seriously and learn well if you are serious... your chains/bars are the life of your saws

River

Couldn't say it better Rat: send the bill .
Just a couple of add-ons:

1. Mommie says to use your PPE. No excuses, even if you cut the PNW "nekkid" way.

2. In the field or home, try the Pferd "ChainSharp" or Husky "SharpForce" tool for sharpening the chain AND raker height with every stroke. This tool is super (no, I don't own a piece of the company :taped: ).

Rat gets the rep.

 

[ChuckinOhio]

Did anyone mention SHARP CHAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

One of the very first mantras that I learned upon frequenting this site.

You guys still rock.

 

[GASoline71]

Over here pro's throw away the spikes before they even fuel the saw, they just arent any good on small saws AND theres no reason to dog it in if the chain is sharp...

I usually just remove the dawgs from my 60cc and smaller saws - and that is for a reason.........

Yeah... I toss the dogs too... especially since I'm a pro...

Gary