daemon2525
ArboristSite Operative
How do you tell magnesium from aluminum? It is a poulan 5200 case/handle?
Can it be welded?
Can it be welded?
Is the Case Mag or aluminum?
- Thread starter daemon2525
- Start date
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daemon2525
ArboristSite Operative
Oh yeah....
The biggest reason that I ask is that I cleaned the paint COMPLETELY off of this saw (worked my butt off) , and painted it with spray bomb. It looked great. Now all of the paint is falling off in GIANT flakes. How do I paint it? Can It be powder coated?
So I figure since it looks like complete crap that I may as well take the crazy thing down to parts and start over. I want to weld a part that I would not have if my paint job would have held.
The biggest reason that I ask is that I cleaned the paint COMPLETELY off of this saw (worked my butt off) , and painted it with spray bomb. It looked great. Now all of the paint is falling off in GIANT flakes. How do I paint it? Can It be powder coated?
So I figure since it looks like complete crap that I may as well take the crazy thing down to parts and start over. I want to weld a part that I would not have if my paint job would have held.
volks-man
Arboristsite.com Spooner
according to acres:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUFACTURED BY: POULAN (BEAIRD POULAN)
SHREVEPORT, LA U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1975
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1980
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 5.2 cu. in. (85cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 2.066 in. (52.48 mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.5626 in. (39.69 mm)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Reed valves
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.:
WEIGHT : 16 lbs. 8 oz., powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Anti-vibration
CHAIN BRAKE: none
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: Electronic capacitor discharge system, two piece
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HS-176A series
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-23HS
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HS/T
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked wire screen cartridge
STARTER TYPE: Automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic, gear driven
OPERATING RPM: 7,500
IGNITION TIMING: fixed
BREAKER POINT SETTING: none
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: 0.012 to 0.015 in. (0.30 to 0.38 mm)
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion CJ6
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 26 fl. oz.
FUEL OIL RATIO: 40:1
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular grade
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Poulan mix oil
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in.
CHAIN TYPE: Oregon 72
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40 cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 36 in. (91 cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: Poulan Lime Green with Black top cover
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUFACTURED BY: POULAN (BEAIRD POULAN)
SHREVEPORT, LA U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
YEAR INTRODUCED: 1975
YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1980
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 5.2 cu. in. (85cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1
CYLINDER BORE: 2.066 in. (52.48 mm)
PISTON STROKE: 1.5626 in. (39.69 mm)
CYLINDER TYPE: Aluminum with chrome plated bore
INTAKE METHOD: Reed valves
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.:
WEIGHT : 16 lbs. 8 oz., powerhead only
OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Anti-vibration
CHAIN BRAKE: none
CLUTCH: Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE: Direct
CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE: Electronic capacitor discharge system, two piece
CARBURETOR: Tillotson HS-176A series
MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-23HS
MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HS/T
AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked wire screen cartridge
STARTER TYPE: Automatic rewind
OIL PUMP: Automatic, gear driven
OPERATING RPM: 7,500
IGNITION TIMING: fixed
BREAKER POINT SETTING: none
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: 0.012 to 0.015 in. (0.30 to 0.38 mm)
SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion CJ6
SPARK PLUG GAP: 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball
FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 26 fl. oz.
FUEL OIL RATIO: 40:1
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular grade
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: Poulan mix oil
CHAIN PITCH: 3/8 in.
CHAIN TYPE: Oregon 72
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:
SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40 cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 36 in. (91 cm)
COLOUR SCHEME: Poulan Lime Green with Black top cover
PAINT CODES:
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST:
SERVICE MANUAL:
Did you prime it first? Was it totally degreased?
Last edited:
Saw Bones
ArboristSite Operative
Ever seen magnesium burn? when you put water on it it acts like you poured gas on the fire. I am not a welder, but I don't think I would recommend welding Magnesium.
Goat
ArboristSite Operative
It can be welded with a TIG.
I use a solution of caustic (10% NaOH) to ID mag. Aluminum is etched by NaOH or any other alkaline solution. Put a drop on it, if it starts to bubble then it's Al, if you leave the solution on long it will also leave a black scum on the Al.
I use a solution of caustic (10% NaOH) to ID mag. Aluminum is etched by NaOH or any other alkaline solution. Put a drop on it, if it starts to bubble then it's Al, if you leave the solution on long it will also leave a black scum on the Al.
Fish
Tree Freak
Just drill a tiny hole in a thick part of no consequence, and put a match to the shavings, if you have a light show, then it is magnesium.
Most were magnesium.
Most were magnesium.
foxeye
ArboristSite Member
Regardless though, magnesium can still be welded. I welded lots of volkswagen tranny and engine parts and cases up which are magnesium. It just takes special process to do magnesium.
As for paint not sticking, aluminum will oxidize very quickly as will mag if left bare and exposed to the atmosphere. It may still appear to be spotlessly clean but the paint is sticking on a film of oxide (corrosion) that forms almost overnight which usually lets go once painted as there is no "tooth" to the metal for the paint to adhere to. Try cleaning with MEK or acetone or even alchohol and imediately prime with zinc chromate primer, then top coat with paint of your choice.
As for paint not sticking, aluminum will oxidize very quickly as will mag if left bare and exposed to the atmosphere. It may still appear to be spotlessly clean but the paint is sticking on a film of oxide (corrosion) that forms almost overnight which usually lets go once painted as there is no "tooth" to the metal for the paint to adhere to. Try cleaning with MEK or acetone or even alchohol and imediately prime with zinc chromate primer, then top coat with paint of your choice.
daemon2525
ArboristSite Operative
No, I just sanded it with a woodworking sander. I assumed that it was clean. How could it not be? I sanded it down to bare metal. No primer.
I am not sure that it is worth the trouble. I got it for free. I put a new Oregon bar and chain on it (85$), Carb kit made it run well (20$), Bought a parts saw(70$ with shipping). Now the chain does not travel correctly, It goes from tight to loose as you spin it around the bar. The sprocket is bad.
The parts saw had a Rim sprocket on it . So I thought that I would use it to fix my chain problem. The parts saw is 404. I put a .375 B/C on it originally.
Fark it. LOL!
Don't worry about answering my questions. I actually have two nearly complete saws, and some of the large parts are ruined. I'll just pitch one of the Big parts into my next bon-fire and let y'all know how it works out. :jester:
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Sprocket rims are cheap.......
foxeye
ArboristSite Member
Maybe break out a tube of Flitz Simichrome polish and polish that beast up like a mirrow.........
country boy
ArboristSite Operative
You need to use an etch primer . You can find it an any auto paint store they even sell it in a spray can. Any ole primer will not work on alluminum or mag .
country boy
ArboristSite Operative
you may even find it at your local parts store i use UPOL Acid #8 Etch Primer Aerosol for litlle small jobs where i dont want to dirty the spray gun.
