GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
I can't believe this threads is still alive and there are actually people willing to argue their point that it's a good thing to do...
...get a grip mang.
Gary
...get a grip mang.
Gary
is there a way to "practice" kickback??
- Thread starter abby4000
- Start date
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logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
The girls got their panties wet.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Miss Randy, you there ?
Miss Randy, you there ?
The girls got their panties wet.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Miss Randy, you there ?
Can't you do better? As if!:angry2:
Burvol
Bullbuck
The girls got their panties wet.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Miss Randy, you there ?
Ha. You have butcher and log in the same breath in your name. Nuff said from where the boys and I in the logging forum come from...
ROOOOOOO KIE :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rather than start a new thread I figured I would ask hear. I probably have more time restoring/rebuilding a saw then using one. As I go I am moving on to bigger saws and older saws with out chain brakes. I have have had a KB or two from a misplaced tip. And like some have said I keep myself out of the path of the bar and try not to have the white knuckle death grip. If somebody could explain what to look for that can cause possible KB. How to spot possible binds. Might be hard to explain and something that just comes with hours of experience, but I am trying to learn what I can. Thanks for any input.
Anytime the kerf above the bar starts closing on you the top of the bar can catch it and push the saw out into you. Limbing and reaching the tip too far and hitting something with the top half of it will throw the bar tip upward back at you. Pay attention to the tip and what's real close to it. When starting a bore cut if you put the bar straight in right away will make it more susceptible to kickback. When you start a bore cut let the bottom of the bar start into the tree far enough to start pulling the saw into it and then straighten the bar up a little.
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the input. Up until about six months ago the biggest saw I ran was about 40-50 cc. Now I am getting into much larger saws, and I dont get a chance to run them a lot. Just trying to learn what I can, trying not to make any stupid mistakes, and trying my best to be prepared for any surprises.
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
Thanks for the input. Up until about six months ago the biggest saw I ran was about 40-50 cc. Now I am getting into much larger saws, and I dont get a chance to run them a lot. Just trying to learn what I can, trying not to make any stupid mistakes, and trying my best to be prepared for any surprises.
Best advice I can give is to respect the big boys, but let em know who's boss!
They will be different than running 50cc saws. Just have to run em and get a feel for the power.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Kickback comes also from these sort of intricate cuts, that's why I use a 13" bar on the 359 which gives alot more control.
John
John
Brian13
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have just about got to where my 044 feel real comfortable in my hands. But I am almost done with a Super 250 bow saw and have a 797 on the way. Those not only are bigger than anything I have ever used to date but no chain brakes either. And from what I have heard those kick like a mule.
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
I have just about got to where my 044 feel real comfortable in my hands. But I am almost done with a Super 250 bow saw and have a 797 on the way. Those not only are bigger than anything I have ever used to date but no chain brakes either. And from what I have heard those kick like a mule.
Yup, better hang on to the 797 pretty tight. Randymac can tell you anything you need to know about those big saws.
