Is this crank ok to use?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chuckwood

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Messages
8,681
Reaction score
15,518
Location
near the Great Smoky Mtns. Tennessee
I'm working on a Husky L65 that I received as a parts source. The engine was seized, and I was expecting to see
a trashed top end. The top end is fine. It was the crank that was locked up. I looked in there and there was a crusty
white deposit on the bottom that seemed to be stuff left behind when a liquid evaporated. It's the same in the gas
tank, the bottom half of the tank seems to have a white mineral looking deposit on the inside walls. I'm guessing
the saw was left in some water maybe and then set on the shelf to dry with no diss-assembly. I soaked the crankcase
in engine cleaner, blasted it out with the garden hose, soaked it in WD-40, blow dry, repeat. Then let it sit in kerosene
overnight. The crankcase is very clean now and the crank spins effortlessly. I removed the seals to have a look, and the bearings only seem to have a small spots of rust here and there. Can I start building a saw with this crank the way it is now?
This crankcase is in like new condition otherwise, the saw seems to have been used very little, hardly any scratches
or dings on it. Are these bearings ruined? The crank spins easily and I can't detect any slop or play in it right now. Or
will running it with some rust on the bearings result in unacceptable wear and slop showing up later? L65 bearings 006 low res.JPG L65 bearings 007 low res.jpg
 
I wouldn't. That white stuff is magnesium decay caused by water sitting in there. Any rust on the bearings is a No No. Bearings are cheap... I'd be willing to bet that rod has a bad spot in the bottom bearing too...
 
I wouldn't. That white stuff is magnesium decay caused by water sitting in there. Any rust on the bearings is a No No. Bearings are cheap... I'd be willing to bet that rod has a bad spot in the bottom bearing too...

Ok. Looks like I'll soon be having a new experience, splitting cases, never done it before. I've got more parts saws with good cranks and bearings - I could reinstall. It's nice to know what that white deposit is. What's the best way to remove it from inside the gas tank? I'm not so sure where I could find new bearings, the L65 is such an old model that new parts are difficult to find. Or are bearings interchangeable on some models? Thanks for any replies, I'm new at this. Just curious about rusty crank bearings, do they wear out real quick and require replacement anyway?
 
when you get the bearings out measure them up. They may be a commonly available bearing from a bearing supplier. Most times saws are built with a common off the shelf bearing to cut down on the cost of using specialty bearings and seals. My thoughts would be that the saw was built in a time when a worker may not be able to access a saw shop, so they needed to design it to have common parts so workers would be able to repair things to continue working in remote locations.
 
when you get the bearings out measure them up. They may be a commonly available bearing from a bearing supplier. Most times saws are built with a common off the shelf bearing to cut down on the cost of using specialty bearings and seals.

I've been looking online using part numbers, etc., and sure enough the bearing I need seems to be a 6202 C3. I'll
know for sure once I split the cases and measure. There are lots of these on ebay or Amazon right now, for as little
as 5 bucks a piece. I found some at Jacks Small Engines, but his are genuine Husky bearings, and they are real proud
of theirs at 20 bucks a bearing. Most of the non Husky bearings are sealed, but I'm assuming I can just get some needle nose pliers and pull the seals off the bearing, dissolve the grease out and then oil with engine oil, and then install?
 
I had the same dilemma with a ms290. Guy I got it from "cleaned it up" with a pressure washer and got water (and grit) inside the crankcase. The bearings went from rough to totally seized in a matter of a couple days. I was going to put new crank bearings in when a member here brought it to my attention that the big end rod bearing is most likely compromised as well. That project is Stihl on the back burner (contemplating a Bailey's short block).
 
Back
Top