Issues with my new Husky 346XP

[ClemXP]

One more thing

Oh, and the clutch drum needle bearing doesn't need a grease gun...you have to take the drum off and apply it by hand. I never found the stuff specifically for husky, but stihl makes a little orange and white tube of it, I think its just white lithium grease.

 

[SawTroll]

Its a real PITA when it happens .............I have seen plenty of them...





.

Sure was the first time :bang::bang: - but it wouldn't be if there ever is a next time.....

 

[THALL10326]

Sure was the first time :bang::bang: - but it wouldn't be if there ever is a next time.....

Sawtroll why is this saw cutting crooked????

I think the chain might be dull,haha

 

[SawTroll]

Oh, and the clutch drum needle bearing doesn't need a grease gun...you have to take the drum off and apply it by hand. I never found the stuff specifically for husky, but stihl makes a little orange and white tube of it, I think its just white lithium grease.

You don't have to take the drum off - there is a grease hole at the end of the shaft - but to make use of it, you need a grease gun.

 

[arborist]

Sounds about right...I did have the issues when going through big logs. So, is the way to keep it from happening, to keep the firebird revved full out while on the way in/out of the log? Must be a way to do it because Troll cuts with a 16"er.

Sounds like you went with that skinny stock bar.

 

[InTheFlow]

Sounds like you went with that skinny stock bar.

Yep. You have a better recommendation(s)? Why does the bar matter?

 

[CentaurG2]

Got back from the dealer...they fixed the spring for me and checked over the saw thoroughly. Couldn't find anything wrong with it so he went over the chainsaw with me 'from the beginning' and I had an opportunity to ask all the questions I'd been wondering about. I think it would have been good if they had done that with me from the beginning but somehow it got over-looked.

I think that the saw was loading up (on gas) when I was coming out of a log because I was allowing the saw to decelerate on its way out instead of keeping it going full throttle until it completely cleared the log.

My saw evidently didn't come with one of those grease guns but my dealer offered me one for free from a customer who didn't want theirs.

Thanks again for the advice y'all.

Sounds like you are becoming chainsaw savvy with the trial and error method which is the best way to learn as long as it does not cost you an arm and a leg (literally).

To avoid jamming your bar and sprocket up with chips, keep the chain speed up. This will allow the chain to clear the chips. Let the saw do the cutting and don’t lean on it especially if the bar is buried full length in a log. You might even need to lift up slightly on the saw slightly. Keeping you chain razor sharp also help with proper chip clearance. You will get the swing of things as you become more familiar with your saw.

If you find yourself in the position of having the side cover off of this saw and the chain brake tripped (either by prying it off the saw or dropping it when off) you can use the saw to disengage the brake. Simply place the cover back onto the saw. It will not fit on properly as the metal band that goes around the clutch will prevent the rear of the cover from fitting back on. Just align the front top of the cover so that the silver metal shamrock piece inside the cover fits into the plastic detent on chain brake handle. You will usually need to push the chain brake handle forward with one hand to get it to fit properly. Once aligned, just pull back on the chain brake handle to unlock the clutch band. Takes about less than 2 seconds to do the entire procedure, EZPZ. Again, good luck with your saw.

 

[spudulike]

Sounds about right...I did have the issues when going through big logs. So, is the way to keep it from happening, to keep the firebird revved full out while on the way in/out of the log? Must be a way to do it because Troll cuts with a 16"er.

Try to avoid burying the bar tip deep in the trunk and keeping the saw going whilst not clearing all the chips from the cut, go at both sides of the trunk in turn or just get a larger saw to cope with large cuts or ask the guys on here for advice on using a longer bar with your saw - bar to saw size is always a compromise between usabillity, power, balance and the type of work you usually do - I prefer to use a bar where the saw never feels like it will bog down rather than overcooking it - 15" on my 345, 18" on my 254, 20" on the 640 and 24" on the 181!

Spud

 

[SawTroll]

Sawtroll why is this saw cutting crooked????

I think the chain might be dull,haha

It most likely is.....



...but the could be other issues as well.....:jawdrop:

 

[SawTroll]

Sounds about right...I did have the issues when going through big logs. So, is the way to keep it from happening, to keep the firebird revved full out while on the way in/out of the log? Must be a way to do it because Troll cuts with a 16"er.

Sorry, can't help much, as I never had that issue with any saw or bar - and I often cut with the tip into the wood, also with the "skinny" NK/pixel stuff....

You should always cut at full throttle though, and make sure the bar and chain is getting enough oil!

 

[InTheFlow]

Thanks guys.

They upped the oil setting to 3 instead of 2 at the shop. He said it was getting enough oil even on the 2 setting so I'm thinking it all probably came down to me not cutting correctly. I like those kind of problems because I can fix them...er me. lol