jonsered 910e the plot thickens

Advertise with us
shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
wedge

wedge

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Nov 23, 2003
Messages
296
Reaction score
1
Location
upstate ny
as you might remember i aquired a one owner low mileage jonny red 910 through my purchasing the used saws at an auction of a local now defunct saw shop. any way to make a short story long the gas tank looked like a votive from yankee candle co. due to sitting a decade with a full tank of fuel. ive got it cleaned up to the carb, but when i pulled the carb apart it was clean as a hounds tooth inside looked brand new. i was perplexed but thanks to my enormus talent and keen instincts (oh and modesty did i mention modesty :p ) i found out the clutch side crank seal is deader than good friday, now i know why the carb was clean. any way i need help with 2 things , does the clutch cone off reverse thread like anything else?and where can i get a seal for this antique from? also does anyone have the stone tablets that have a parts list chiseled on em?

i appreciate youre help fellas
 
The clutch drum SHOULD come off the same as any other clutch on most all chainsaws. stop the piston, and make it spin clockwise, it SHOULD come off. Homelite 330s, and 7-19s are pains in the backside because the nut is reversed.
 
Wedge

Have you checked with a Jonsered Dealer on the crank seals? Some of the parts you can still get.

Ricky
 
Wedge, I have the seal cross reference book available at my office. If you can get a number off the old one, or just the sizes, I'll look to see if there is a CR, or other, cross. Johnny Red didn't make their own seals.
John.......
 
Wedge, contact George Blake, [email protected] (or something like that). He's a member here at AS as motorsag. He sent me a PL for my Jred 90, which is actually a 801, & provided some of the parts. He also has some stuff for 670s, though they're rather new for the parts that he stocks (maybe he has the Holy Grail clutch cover!).
 
Last edited:
whatsnext said:
Wedge, ... Johnny Red didn't make their own seals.
John.......
Click to expand...

Nobody makes their own seals; they all come from a specialty maker. But now in the age of the internet, we can go to a website and buy a seal knowing only the dimensions of the shaft and race and the seal's intended use and the brains on the other end will get the right seal out to you:

http://www.epm.com/index.htm

I found out that there really is no such thing as a "two-stroke engine crankshaft seal" either, it's just a seal. All of the two-lip 'girdle spring' type seals will hold a few PSI positive and negative. There are no seals rated for 15,000 rpm either. All the chainsaws just use seals rated for much lower rpm like everyone else uses and just put up with the shorter service life that results. If used at 'rated' speeds, these seals will last like 20,000 hours so if they last 1000-2000 hours in a chainsaw it's all good. A plain ol nitrile rubber seal for a 1/2" shaft with an "ET" type lip design (the type you always see on chainsaws) is rated for 'only' 8000 RPM continuous. You could move up to Viton and get longer life for a few pennies more.
It's still easy to get old Jonsereds parts from guys like George Blake, but if there's a really old or obscure machine that needs a seal you can get it for sure from EPM.

Jimbo
 
Good to know jimbo, thanks for the info and the link.
 
as usual you fellas are handy as all hell to have aroung. first finding a jonnyred dealer in upstate ny is like finding a virgin in a maternity ward. im gonna pop off that seal and maybe even napa can get one.
 
ps.jimbo you know entirely too much about seals but thankfully you do.looks like itll be about a $12 fix. by the way, what does everybody use to block a piston? other than the right tool(thats no fun and requires no imagination :p )
i used to use a lenth of rope till i got a sizeable piect get sheared off in the intake port and the saw ingested it now its a handy dandy door stop. ( i could write a book on the stupid stuff ive done) now i use a sawed off tooth brush handle
 
Rope works good, but as you have found out, you have to raise the piston so it is above the ports before you stuff it in, otherwise it gets caught in the ports and can be cut or cause other damage. It is a pain in the butt to catch it in a port and then have it release right as you are applying maximum force. Even if it is the exhaust port it is still annoying to cut off the rope. If it is the intake or transfer ports, it can mean further disassembly to remove the rope pieces, which is also frustrating.
 
I've used old spark plug wires, but you run the risk of small bits of rubber breaking off when piston cuts through the rubber casing. Makes the saw bounce a bit when you use it :laugh: .
 
got the clutch off, it comes off like any other it just took an impact wrench to get it off.(wonder if thatll bite me in the ass later? ive done it b4 and gotten away with it though) now to locate a seal
 
heres the number on the seal b18f slx2 15-30-775 (husky part#?) cfwa2

like most numbers on things i imagine that only one group of these will be relavent. ring any bells?
 
I picked up a couple of the locking strips (piston stops) today from Stihl they are only $2 each, as well as a ElastoStart rope for the 046 Mag so that gives me the old starter rope for a stop as well, when I got the locking strips from Stihl the guy behind the counter told me be careful that he had broken one off in a saw already, when I asked him what he used now he wouldn't say, but when I talked to him about using a starter rope he just smiled. I will give them both a try and see what happens.
 
i need another favor guys(i know but just think you can claim me as a dependent on youre taxes :p ) could someone please post me a link to a parts list for the jonny 910e? a fella sent me one but my email firewall strippes off attachments. thanks again
 

Latest posts

Back
Top