Jonsered Chainsaws

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For the 80/90 you need the 10mm mounting which is an old, extinct bar not made anymore...no Bailey's doesn't carry it. Some large mount Husky bars will work from the get go, or can be made to work pretty easily. When using non 10mm mount bars, you have to make sure the oil holes in the bar line up as they are supposed to with the saw's oiler. I run my 80/90 all day without anything plugging up.

As I said earlier, .404 chain is a tool for certain pro applications. Most cutters are much better served using 3/8" chain and chisel or semi chisel chain. Even with .404, .058 gauge chain on my J'reds, the chain is extinct and you have to search for it. Plentiful in .063 gauge, but that's about it. I don't know anything about .404 chisel chain less than .058 gauge, but I'm pretty sure it's not made anymore either?

The 80/90 has plenty of low end torque for about any job. The newer, high revving one piston ring saws are a completely different approach than these old school saws.

Kevin
 
My '89' is back to wearing the 32" GB ProTop 3/8" .050 full comp Stihl with 7-pin sprocket. I ordered it a couple years ago from Left Coast Supply (sponsor here) before GB started really getting questionable. The mount was fine and the oil holes lined up. The interesting thing was where the tension adjustment hole shape and location in the bar. A judicious application of a file to the adjustment button on the saw, and I was throwin' chips with a big smile on my face.

If I were to run a 28" bar in 3/8 .050 on that saw, I'd try both the 7-pin and 8-pin and perhaps a couple of different chains with varying sharpening angles on them. I feel like 28" is the sweet spot on this saw as far as weight, balance, and power. 32" is fine and fun in this saw, but I can't lean into it as hard when I'm cutting 30" maple. Then again, really not fair comparing this saw to a 111S or to gear drives.

If you haven't bought anything yet, why not go .058? More stable if you have the power to pull it.

I know .404 is "a professional tool" but it is really cool lookin' and that saw could totally handle it on a 24" bar. It'd make short work of that southern pine...... :D
 
I should take a pic of the bar .someone drilled a 1/4 inch hole all the way through than took a cutoff wheel and opened a slot all the way to the top of the bar
I think thats why the bar gets plugged and oil is not staying in the grove but running on top.
28 inch is the gap I want to fill and have another saw with 32 36 and 42 bars
no pine. oak and walnut some maple locust but don't need 28 in. for that
just fire wood
 
Sorry....stupid Tapatalk. 28" B&C work great on the 80/90. But if you don't need that length, use 24". Agreed on the .058 gauge bars, but it's become all about finding the chain..... Although 3/8" has the best selection potential. And do try seven and eight tooth sprockets...see which one works best for you with the power at hand.

Anybody that altered a bar like that had a 'better idea' that wasn't.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
s-l500.jpg


Bought an ugly, beat but complete 52. This one will be used as a parts saw for my other 52.
Paid $65 to my doorstep.


WHEW!!! Finally got home after a week on the road and opened this beast up. STUNK . . . .so bad like stale gas, although the inside of the tank didn't look that bad.
I'll see if I can pull the muff tomorrow and access the true damage.
 
WHEW!!! Finally got home after a week on the road and opened this beast up. STUNK . . . .so bad like stale gas, although the inside of the tank didn't look that bad.
I'll see if I can pull the muff tomorrow and access the true damage.

Here's a pic of the piston and rings on the 52. I've seen a lot worse, I think I'll be able to use the top end on this saw and just get a new set of Cabers for it.
If all goes well, I may have another running 52 instead of just a parts saw.

10-3-16 048.JPG
 
Here's a pic of the piston and rings on the 52. I've seen a lot worse, I think I'll be able to use the top end on this saw and just get a new set of Cabers for it.
If all goes well, I may have another running 52 instead of just a parts saw.

View attachment 529170

That doesn't look bad Dean....a little scotch brite and a new set of Cabers and I think she'll be good to go!!
 
Oergon lists 3 Rim sizes on the drums 6 tooth spline .404 not what I have.
7 tooth standard spline and 7 tooth small spline. 3/8 8 tooth rim
Saw has Oergon 17344 drum and I found that new in box drum and 3/8 8 tooth rim .
Now what I need to find out will any oregon 7 tooth standard spline fit this drum I wanted a 3/8 7 rim to try
 
Somebody posted the link in the Ebay/CL thread, I figured it also belongs here.

80-100 Jred chainsaws for $2,500.00/OBO.

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/grd/5814456434.html
You'd have to look at that mess in person. Instead of a wide collection, he may have like 40 of Robin's 49SP's. Bunch of basket cases as I see it...lol.

Fast track to becoming a J'red collector if you were close and could negotiate a better price.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
I was at a country saw shop today. He has a nearly complete Jonsered collection. None of the older ones were for sale, especially the XH. First one I've seen in person.
Take any pics....we're thirsty here for visual aids.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 

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