Jonsered Chainsaws

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Hey Ernie, I may be wrong but I'm thinking that's a 371k tank. That looks like the vibration dampner for when the cut off saw is sitting on the ground. The thing that throws me for a loop is that you said uve seen them on a 2171. Did jred make a cut off saw too? Check out chainsaw collectors for sale ad recently posted. He has 2 husky tanks for sale. One has that vibration dampner on it and u can see the concrete soup all over it. Hope this helps
Just checked the Fsale thread with that pic is on the other site.
 
I check the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Primary were fine, but secondary were open. I did remove the plug wire (unscrews from the coil) and even checking the stud in the bottom of the coil directly it was open.

Mark
I check the resistance of the primary and secondary windings. Primary were fine, but secondary were open. I did remove the plug wire (unscrews from the coil) and even checking the stud in the bottom of the coil directly it was open.

Mark
Bummer. Maybe one will turn up.....good luck!

Kevin
 
Hey Ernie, I may be wrong but I'm thinking that's a 371k tank. That looks like the vibration dampner for when the cut off saw is sitting on the ground. The thing that throws me for a loop is that you said uve seen them on a 2171. Did jred make a cut off saw too? Check out chainsaw collectors for sale ad recently posted. He has 2 husky tanks for sale. One has that vibration dampner on it and u can see the concrete soup all over it. Hope this helps
I think your rite ....id assume the tanks were swapped or that damper/protector was put on a 2171 that I've seen .
I can't find the one I saw with it rite now but I was thinking it'd be a good idea ...couldn't hurt anyway on a 2171 .
I'm not aware of a 21xx style cut off saw but I know Jonsered made a 70e cut off saw ...kinda rare

Ernie
 
Eric prolly has the old promo lit for J'red concrete saws. I've seen them in the past. Yeah, I knew a guy who had a 70e concrete saw and converted it to a chainsaw. Not to put down the effort, but I'd have nothing to do with a concrete saw that had been used. If there was anything ever truly 'disposable' or something to rent only, that was it.

Kevin
 
I think your rite ....id assume the tanks were swapped or that damper/protector was put on a 2171 that I've seen .
I can't find the one I saw with it rite now but I was thinking it'd be a good idea ...couldn't hurt anyway on a 2171 .
I'm not aware of a 21xx style cut off saw but I know Jonsered made a 70e cut off saw ...kinda rare

Ernie
Yes come to think of it now it would help with the infamous "husky roll over". 70e is a bad boy. Used to have one in the line up.
Eric prolly has the old promo lit for J'red concrete saws. I've seen them in the past. Yeah, I knew a guy who had a 70e concrete saw and converted it to a chainsaw. Not to put down the effort, but I'd have nothing to do with a concrete saw that had been used. If there was anything ever truly 'disposable' or something to rent only, that was it.

Kevin
These r some true words. Having used a concrete saw for quite a while in the past, and seeing them used day to day...the only maintenence ever done is adding fuel. They see the absolute worst conditions ever for an engine to live in. If it's given to you, expect a full rebuild. Don't pay for a used one, just buy new🤣
 
Its a tuning indicator- not unlike the one found on early Stihl 066 Red Light models- kind of an onboard built in tachometer.
I don't have experience with either, though I have heard of it in the stihls. Does it light up on the top of the rpms? Like a rpm limiter? Intriguing to say the least.
 
I don't have experience with either, though I have heard of it in the stihls. Does it light up on the top of the rpms? Like a rpm limiter? Intriguing to say the least.

Doesnt limit- to the best of my knowledge- just blips at idle, goes away at low to mid revs- lit solid at max revs (something like 14,800 rpm for these wee devils).
Yes, lots of people know about the Stihl Red Light- not many have seen the Jonsered version.
 
Doesnt limit- to the best of my knowledge- just blips at idle, goes away at low to mid revs- lit solid at max revs (something like 14,800 rpm for these wee devils).
Yes, lots of people know about the Stihl Red Light- not many have seen the Jonsered version.
I have a 2051 and never knew about the light ...learn something new ever day !
I'll have to check mine

Ernie
 
I have a 2051 and never knew about the light ...learn something new ever day !
I'll have to check mine

Ernie

A bit like the life span of the 066 Stihl- I believe the red light was only on the early model 2051's- not all throughout the production run.
 
I expect the closed 50mm Gil2 50mm 670 champ to just walk away from the 61 open 48mm K&S. But will be fun testing anyways.

Owned all the 266's 268xp 268 272 66. Just never a 61 as wasnt a saw I wanted. But this 86 one was to nice. So going to find out.
 

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The 61 or 625 are a good saws.......perhaps the longest lived of the family due to offering the lowest power on the platform. I have an 86 61 that I bought from a lady client back 1990 when my original 49SP died in it's sleep. The 61 was still on the first chain and has been flawless except for a couple fuel lines. It doesn't get much use any more. When I need a saw of that weight I grab my other 61 that has a ported Mahle 268XP cyl, squish set, dual port muffler with a 250A tilly.......same weight/size.....more stick!!!
 
Went how I figured. Both stock. 670 has gill muffler mod both sides. 61 muffler has a inner baffle and notta done.
I don’t want to cut on 61 muffler being I am going to sell it.
6.5's to mid 8's.

They all would get the job done. Not a race cutting firewood.
 

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I got the 910 put together enough to pressure/vac test (no flywheel, no clutch), blocked off at the muffler, at the intake boot, and impulse line barb. At the very least I have a leak at the PTO seal. This type of seal is new to me (embedded into the oil pump). Need some direction on how to replace this. Does the whole oiler have to come off? If so, I'm guessing the bearing is right behind it? What steps do I need to take?
 
The 910 should be very similar to the 920, three screws to remove the oil pump housing and the seal is right there in the housing, There is an o-ring behind the housing that should be replaced as well. While your at it, replace the two small o-rings that seal the pump to the inlet and outlet on the crankcase.

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20240305_143701.jpg

Mark
 
The 910 should be very similar to the 920, three screws to remove the oil pump housing and the seal is right there in the housing, There is an o-ring behind the housing that should be replaced as well. While your at it, replace the two small o-rings that seal the pump to the inlet and outlet on the crankcase.

View attachment 1173502

View attachment 1173503

Mark
Thanks Mark.

Could you go into the actually process of replacing the seal, tips or advice? Is it as straightforward as driving the oil seal out and driving the a new one in? What's the preferred way to do this?

Also, while I'm in there with the bearing exposed, do I need to do any maintenance with it, besides oiling it? I'm guessing there will be some crud around it so I'll clean that tacking care not to get any in the bearing, but does the bearing itself need any special cleaning?
 
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