Jonsered Turbo High Performance 2 cycle mix

[Whistler]

My dealer has this stuff and I was told by him it will work for16:1 up to 50:1 , just mix one bottle (2.6 fluid oz.) to 1 gallon of gas and use it for everything ! I searched the archives and found no mention of this oil .. Is this for real ?

 

[sedanman]

A version of this discussion pops up every now and then. BIG CAN O WORMS! Many people run 50:1 in all of their 2 strokes no matter what the manufacturer says. Some will tell you to run 32:1 in everything you own including your pick-up truck. Sit back and watch the drama unfold............

 

[glens]

125 <b>:</b> pi

 

[bwalker]

I would do a search of oil and ratio and form an oppinion for yourself. That being said I wouldnt use the Jonsered oil. Mobil mx2t synthetic can be had for less money and is a way better oil. I would mix it between 32-40:1.

 

[xander9727]

I'll second that BW......or B'dub..

 

[treeclimber165]

First of all, that Jonsey oil is probably the same mix as Husky oil. Husky has a good two-cycle oil which is as good as any of the major brands.
Second, Ben will seize any opportunity to tout the 'virtues' of Mobli synthetic to the exclusion of practically all other mix oils. It may be good, but I've always run a manufacturer-labeled mix and never had any fuel related problems.
Third, several of the manufacturer-labeled mix oils are very good and far surpass the needs of practically all users. My local dealer represents probably 15-20 different brands of two-cycle equipment. Their repair department fixes many other brands as well. How many types of mix fuel do you think they have in their shop? 20? 10? 5? Nope, they have ONE type of mix fuel in their shop and they put it in every brand of machine they sell or repair. It's Stihl branded mix. They have done this for 30 years and I'm sure virtually all dealers follow a similar procedure. And I'm sure that they know a heck of a lot more about two-cycle engine needs than I do.

 

[xander9727]

The manufacturer branded oils meet all of the minimum requirements for 2 cycle engines. If you use them in a stock piece of equipment it should meet or exceed it's designed usable life. Synthetic oils exceed the minimum requirements. They are better for the equipment and will prolong its life when compared to dino oils. If your running modified equipment the additional stresses, speeds, pressures, etc. require more lubrication to minimize heat, friction and wear. Synthetic oils better provide this protection due to the superior pourability, compressibility, resistance to coking and load carrying capability. I'm not saying dino oils are bad but I do feel synthetic oils are better.

My $.02

 

[eyolf]

I won't specifically say that the Jonsey Turbo oil has anything wrong with it, but dealers in my region have been selling the same stuff for 7 or 8 years...I think Tilton (Jonsered importer) made a deal for tons of the stuff and is still trying to get out from under it. It does not carry the ISO "L-EGD" or "JASO FC" label, so the quality is unknown. Jonsered honors the warranty if the product is used, so it can't be really bad, but since nobody knows...?

I asked my old Jonsey dealer if he knew the rating for the oil, and he did not. He promised to ask the Tilton agent, but got no response there. I believe the oil to be a Tilton-contracted product, with no relationship to any Husky product; but again, if Tilton agrees to honor the warranty if a saw or trimmer fails, it's probably OK.

My old Jonsered dealer has retired, and closed. There is a new store selling them near me that doesn't stock the oil anymore, because Tilton doesn't publish the specs for the product. While Tilton may honor warranty issues with it's use, other makers will not, unless the owner can produce an oil bottle with the label I mentioned above. For this shop it's just insurance...if by some chance a customer blows up his EFCO trimmer or Echo blower using the non-labelled Jonsey oil, they may not get paid for warranty repairs.

Here's a <a href= "http://www.goa-northcoastoil.com/tips/2cycleol.html"> link to a discussion</a> on 2 cycle oils that may clear a few things up for folks new to the subject. For those who've seen it before, surf around the site to find results of testing their snowmobile products.

 

[bwalker]

Ben will seize any opportunity to tout the 'virtues' of Mobli synthetic to the exclusion of practically all other mix oils

Thats not true Brian. There are other quality oils out there that I would use. However there are none with the bang for the buck of mobil MX2T. It is priced cheaper than factory mix and is light years better. OEM mix oils are basically 70's technology with the exception of Stihl and Huskys premium oils. The premium oils are still way behind mx2t quality wise and cost more money. If a better product is available for less money I say use it.

 

[Tony Snyder]

I take no chances and always use saw branded oils, Jonsered, Husky, Echo, Stihl.

I do run it 40: in my shop mix.

I have had no trouble with this practice. I see no reason to experiment until I find one that doesn't work.

 

[sedanman]

Bwalker, I have looked for Mobil mx2t and can't find it locally. I would try a quart if I could find it.

 

[bwalker]

.

I take no chances and always use saw branded oils

Tony: Who do you think makes the oem mix oils? Mobil, chevron, exxon, citgo from what i have seen.

Sedanman: Autozone and Murrays sell it. You can buy it online for a very resonable price from www.avlube.com

 

[oldmanmcculloch]

LUCK TO HAVE ANY OIL

<font color = blue>After selling oil for saws for the last 35 years and seeing everything from bar and chain oil to diesel and Roundup in the mix I think Husqvarna or Stihl is the best .Over the years I have seen some trouble .Granberg was one of the first with 100:1,problem being there was not enough mix in the can and caused some motor failure. <p>All this in the past I have had good luck with Husqvarna and Stihl. If your motor is ready to give up the ghost ,the best snake oil with all the additives will not save it.

 

[Whistler]

O.K. guys ,I appreciate the advice and responses but I think you may have missed what I said my dealer told me . He said that all I have to do is mix a 2.6 oz. bottle to a gallon of gas and use it for EVERYTHING , 16:1 , 24:1 , 32:1 , 40:1 , 50:1 . IT IS A MULTI-RATIO OIL ! And yes it meets OEM spec . ISO E-GD & JASO-FC . Just wanting to make sure you know this , as I find it awfully hard to believe !

 

[treeclimber165]

2.6 oz. of oil per gallon of gas is 50-1 ratio. Practically every two cycle engine made in the last 15 years uses 50-1 ratio. Older saws/ weedeaters from the 70's or 60's may call for 32-1 or something, but that was with less advanced oils. I use Stihl 50-1 mix (mixed closer to 40-1 or 45-1) in every two cycle engine I own. What brand they are doesn't matter. I've never had more than one two-cycle mix can in 20 years, including the 7 years I owned my own lawn service with about 10-12 different two-cycle machines of 4 different brands.
What air cooled two-cycle machines do you have that call for something other than 50-1 mix? (Water cooled two-cycle is a different topic with different oil requirements)

 

[Whistler]

My old Wright chainsaw is 16:1 , I think my old Jiffy ice auger is 24:1 , my old 80 jonsereds is 32:1 , newer 910s and 920 jonsereds are 40:1 and of course my stihl and Husky saws are 50:1 . If this stuff works , it will really be a blessing to me . I would like to hear some positive results from other users . I have no alternative but to go for it but will be apprehensive of course .

 

[treeclimber165]

Without knowing the exact lettering of the different standards and without going and reading the bottles of mix I have, I'd assume the mix oil you have meets the same standards as other branded two-cycle oils from Stihl, Husky, Echo, etc.
I would run it at 40-1 instead of 50-1. That way you get a touch more lubrication and more margin of error. If you buy 2.6oz bottles, there could be (and probably is) some variation in quantity due to bottling operations. Say you have a bottle that only has 2.4oz. Then say you dribble a little down the front of the can. Then your finger slips at the pump and you put 1.1 gallons of gas in. BOOM, you are running 60 or 70-1! Then you burn up pistons.
I never let others mix my two cycle fuel and practically never use someone else's two-cycle mix in my equipment (except for one or two people who are also very careful). Since the manufacturers went to 50-1 almost 15 years ago, I've always mixed my fuel a little rich (40-1 or 45-1). I've never had an engine seize or other fuel related damage and I've made my living with two-cycle engines for 20 years.
I laugh when I go in my neighbor's shed and see 3 different cans of two-cycle mix for 3 different brands of Home Depot lawn equipment. And all three are stale. He just doesn't get it.

 

[Whistler]

Hey treeclimber , I read the link to a discussion that eyolf gave us and found it very informative . Thanks eyolf .

 

[eyolf]

You're welcome, Whistler.

I don't know that I would trust 50:1 mix in that old Wright saw. I have a few old saws too, and before I would go too thin on the oil I would make certain I knew what was going on inside.

I'm not at all familiar with the Wrights, but I am going to guess it has a split rod big-end like most other stuff of 40 years ago. The cylinder wall is likely aluminum with a chrome plated bore; they don't trap oil like Nikasil does, but don't drink it up like cast iron does.

I have no idea what engine is on the ice auger, but I'm going to hazard a guess that its the power-products/Techumseh.

Based on that guess, I'd consider 40:1 to be on the outside of safety, especially for the saw. The ice auger may handle it well enough because those old techumseh ice augers don't run well enough, for long enough to burn down...unless you're making a big hole for a darkhouse (spear) how many holes do you make before shutting down? I'd go with 32:1 on the saw, or if you are after ease of mix, 25:1 (two bottles)

For anyone out there that runs really old stuff with cast iron cylinder bores, plain bearings, or anything else antique, I'd stay with 20:1 or 24:1. I have some maytag engines and a Fairmont section car engine, as well as a couple of ancient outboards; they're just no fun unless you're in a cloud of blue smoke!

 

[Bill G]

I have had this same conversation with others and my opinion is generally in the minority. I see it as a pretty simple answer. 16:1 means just that 16 parts gas to one part oil. It was mention that nearly all power equipment in the last 20 years is designed at 50:1 that is true for a good deal but not all. The last good Homelites still ran 16:1 as I believe so did the Macs. The Ryobi tillers sold just a couple years ago aare 40:1. Weedeater trimmers 16:1, Later Craftsmans 32:1. The way I see it you want to chance scoring a cylinder by skimping on the oil then go right ahead. OPE dealers will line up to sell you a new product. I keep a several mixes which are about 16:1 to run in 16:1 saws. 32:1 to run in 32:1 equipment, and 40:1 to run in 50:1 equipment. I use Husky oil in the 32 and40:1 and Lawn Boy in the 16:1. If it gets old I toss it. To me this is a small price to pay compared to ruining a saw.

Bill