just bought a 395xp, the chain brake handle is very flimsy feeling:/

[Journier]

I cant grab the handle at the far left end and pull it in to unlock it, it will nearly bend all the way back to the handlebar. i have to grab it at the center point, or at the far right end to get it not to bend on me before unlocking. Very flimsy

the chainbrake is very tight seeming, i sometimes have to take my left hand off the handle, and grab the chain brake release, and do it like that, either jam it back toward me to unlock it or, jam it outwards to lock her again.



Thats unless this chainbrake system might be just tighter than normal? Anyone with 395 come in here and let me know?

Is she gonna loosen up after a few thousand engages and disengages ?

God thats annoying.

any tips?

 

[Nitroman]

You should be able to have the saw at a 45* angle pointed down, with the tip of the bar about 4-5 inches above a stump, let it drop free to the stump, the chainbrake should engage.

You need to take that back to the dealer right away.

 

[abohac]

I cant grab the handle at the far left end and pull it in to unlock it, it will nearly bend all the way back to the handlebar. i have to grab it at the center point, or at the far right end to get it not to bend on me before unlocking. Very flimsy

the chainbrake is very tight seeming, i sometimes have to take my left hand off the handle, and grab the chain brake release, and do it like that, either jam it back toward me to unlock it or, jam it outwards to lock her again.



Thats unless this chainbrake system might be just tighter than normal? Anyone with 395 come in here and let me know?

Is she gonna loosen up after a few thousand engages and disengages ?

God thats annoying.

any tips?

You have me curious now. I'm going to the shop to check my saw. I cut all last winter with it and didn't notice what you are describing.

 

[abohac]

I cant grab the handle at the far left end and pull it in to unlock it, it will nearly bend all the way back to the handlebar. i have to grab it at the center point, or at the far right end to get it not to bend on me before unlocking. Very flimsy

the chainbrake is very tight seeming, i sometimes have to take my left hand off the handle, and grab the chain brake release, and do it like that, either jam it back toward me to unlock it or, jam it outwards to lock her again.



Thats unless this chainbrake system might be just tighter than normal? Anyone with 395 come in here and let me know?

Is she gonna loosen up after a few thousand engages and disengages ?

God thats annoying.

any tips?

Must be something wrong. I went out and yanked on mine and seems to work pretty easy.

 

[stihl 440]

385

You should be able to have the saw at a 45* angle pointed down, with the tip of the bar about 4-5 inches above a stump, let it drop free to the stump, the chainbrake should engage.

You need to take that back to the dealer right away.

Yea....my 385xp did that a couple times, and at first I was like WTF?!..but then I remembered that I read that it would do that in the manual. I didn't drop it....but it also turns on when it kicks a little bit. I controled the kickback, but the brake still kicked on. I kinda like it, it is even a better saftey feature.:greenchainsaw:

 

[Journier]

hmmm could i take this to any dealer to have it looked at or just the one i bought it from?

Im not exactly close to the one i bought it from, 50 miles each way

Not sure how the warranty on chainsaws works, never had a warranty claim on one before... :/

going to go check the manual for info...

 

[stihl 440]

395xp

BTW, congrats on the new 395xp!!!!:greenchainsaw:

 

[Freakingstang]

The plastic on the husky's are flimsier than other brands...

It is a big saw, and it is new...Hate to break it to you, but it is gonna be stiff for a while. Better get used to it. I mean, it is just a tad larger than say the 350 sold at lowes.....

 

[Journier]

lol yea, im going out right now to do the drop test real quick, if the drop test works, we are all good, and i have weak woman hands.

 

[Journier]

You should be able to have the saw at a 45* angle pointed down, with the tip of the bar about 4-5 inches above a stump, let it drop free to the stump, the chainbrake should engage.

You need to take that back to the dealer right away.

Ok i just followed nitromans directions here, and tried this.

My brake is not engaging.

I even trying to sorta bang it a bit, and still no engagement.

 

[StihlNut88]

Take it back, husky is pretty good with warranty claims. The dealer wanting to put one through.... that may be a different story.

 

[AZLOGGER]

I cant grab the handle at the far left end and pull it in to unlock it, it will nearly bend all the way back to the handlebar. i have to grab it at the center point, or at the far right end to get it not to bend on me before unlocking. Very flimsy

the chainbrake is very tight seeming, i sometimes have to take my left hand off the handle, and grab the chain brake release, and do it like that, either jam it back toward me to unlock it or, jam it outwards to lock her again.



Thats unless this chainbrake system might be just tighter than normal? Anyone with 395 come in here and let me know?

God thats annoying.
any tips?

Is she gonna loosen up after a few thousand engages and disengages?

If you have a receipt from an authorize dealer, take it to an authorize dealer and get it repaired under warranty, if they won't repair it, call Husqvarna 1-800-448-7543, that is a safety issue and it will get some immediate attention. Do it ASAP

 

[Journier]

If you have a receipt from an authorize dealer, take it to an authorize dealer and get it repaired under warranty, if they won't repair it, call Husqvarna 1-800-448-7543, that is a safety issue and it will get some immediate attention. Do it ASAP

I hear ya, i called the place i bought it from , Which i got a receipt from, and im pretty sure is a authorized dealer and there chainsaw tech isnt in today, he will be in monday.

I hope i can just mail them the chain brake cover and have them mail me a new one.

Its an hour drive up there and hour back, + fuel costs, ack I had to drive there to pick the thing up, guess i made the mistake of not checking everything out while i was in the ship there.

Hopefully they work with me here without having me burn part of a day just messing with this.

Also looking at the break band , it has a strong wear spot in the top corner where its seemingly rubbing or something. Not good at all think youd get better for a grand..
also-

The chainsaw is fantastic, i mean it was just a powerhouse, i cant wait for the warranty to go off, and ill be doing a muffler mod etc to it.

baby was piling wood chips at my feet so fast i almost had to put on some swimming equipment to get out.

 

[Journier]

hmm anyone want to walk me through taking apart the chain brake system on my 395xp?

brake in locked position

Note the already worn spot on the chain brake band

 

[Nitroman]

Remove cover, part number 503-72-06-01 and see if there is anything hanging up.

Loosen screw, part number 503-20-26-16 slightly to see if that does anything.

To get it back into the off position, it will be really hard unless you can put a couple bolts through the cover. Use two long bolts tightened in a vise, pointing up, put the cover over the bolts, hold the arm of the brake and pull back until it disengages.

 

[Journier]

thanks for that diagram, between the time i posted those pics and you posted the diagram i began a teardown of it.

Nothing is obviously hung up, everything is cleanly greased, i removed the chain brake spring, which obviously had plenty of pressure put on it. removing some of that pressure made the lever so much easier to work.

Without the spring the lever works very easily not giving any friction or anything anywhere in its span of movement.

My only thoughts at this moment in time is

a: Im a little girly man and im not using that lever with the proper strength.
b: Im not doing the drop test properly and that is why its no engaging the chain brake when i tried it.
c: the spring is not the correct one for this saw and that is the reasoning behind this whole situation

God i wish i had another 395 to compare to.

I couldnt figure out how to remove the lever, i removed the screw and thought it would come right off.

But your diagram obviously explains why i could not remove it, the 2 inset holders, i couldnt figure out how to remove them.

edit-

Anyone have any comments on the wear on the brake band? Is that sometimes normal to have a little highspot in the band to wear off like that?

 

[Nitroman]

thanks for that diagram, between the time i posted those pics and you posted the diagram i began a teardown of it.

Nothing is obviously hung up, everything is cleanly greased, i removed the chain brake spring, which obviously had plenty of pressure put on it. removing some of that pressure made the lever so much easier to work.

Without the spring the lever works very easily not giving any friction or anything anywhere in its span of movement.

My only thoughts at this moment in time is

a: Im a little girly man and im not using that lever with the proper strength.
b: Im not doing the drop test properly and that is why its no engaging the chain brake when i tried it.
c: the spring is not the correct one for this saw and that is the reasoning behind this whole situation

God i wish i had another 395 to compare to.

I couldnt figure out how to remove the lever, i removed the screw and thought it would come right off.

But your diagram obviously explains why i could not remove it, the 2 inset holders, i couldnt figure out how to remove them.

edit-

Anyone have any comments on the wear on the brake band? Is that sometimes normal to have a little highspot in the band to wear off like that?

I have a 394xp which is virtually identical. I put a new clutch cover/brake assembly on just last summer. It worked nicely from the get go. You should not have to force anything.
Put everything back together, but don't make the handle screw really tight and see if the assembly will work correctly now.

 

[Journier]

i put it back together, and still same problem as before.

I can barely with my left hand still gripping the bar, pull the brake in to unlock with my fingers.

I have adjusted the screw you mentioned, ive loosened it and it made almost no difference i dont think. i tightened it a bit to see what kind of difference it made and i dont think there is a very noticeable difference.



If i didnt just buy a brand new saw i wouldnt care about this and run it like it is.

 

[stihl 440]

saw running

Ok i just followed nitromans directions here, and tried this.

My brake is not engaging.

I even trying to sorta bang it a bit, and still no engagement.

You have to have the saw/chain running when it hits the stump.....say WOT then drop it on the stump it will engage then......that's the way it's designed....:greenchainsaw:

 

[Journier]

hmmm will see if it works at WOT tommorow morning.