just bought a 395xp, the chain brake handle is very flimsy feeling:/
- Thread starter Journier
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AndyR
ArboristSite Operative
Ahhh. Thanks.
I suppose I could have found that myself. I'll see what my phone call tomorrow produces. Though, reporting something like this shouldn't be a last resort to get assistance. It is, after all, a regular safety test from their own manual that has failed, and almost certainly wasn't working properly when it left the factory...
I suppose I could have found that myself. I'll see what my phone call tomorrow produces. Though, reporting something like this shouldn't be a last resort to get assistance. It is, after all, a regular safety test from their own manual that has failed, and almost certainly wasn't working properly when it left the factory...
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
If your inertia test failed, its not the brake band thats failing, unless the brake activates but then wont hold the chain. It does take a bit of height to test the inertia function, how high are you dropping it from? Hopefully the saw is not running...........
When rolling your wrist it should bring the chain to a complete stop almost instantly.
If you bought the saw new, take it back. Seems a bit silly reporting this as a consumer safety hazard, when you have tested as per the operator manual and identified the need for repair... this is a pro saw after all, not your average consumer model.
AndyR
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks steve, I wasn't sure about the height from which to drop the bar (not running). I just held the saw at arms length (I'm 6'2") and dropped the bar down onto about an 8 inch log section and the brake didn't engage. Maybe I'm being too easy on it-I don't want to mess something up.
The brake band itself seems to be working ok, it's just tough to pull it back to disengage. The whole handguard bends, as Journier stated in the first post of this thread. Maybe thats just how these are supposed to be?
I'm not really looking to report anything, just want to make sure things are right.
Andy
The brake band itself seems to be working ok, it's just tough to pull it back to disengage. The whole handguard bends, as Journier stated in the first post of this thread. Maybe thats just how these are supposed to be?
I'm not really looking to report anything, just want to make sure things are right.
Andy
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
The handguard "bending" is pretty common among most saws / brands that only use 1 pivot point for the handle. My 395s are all the same, i disengage the brake with 1 hand making sure the hand is positioned closer to the right, rather then trying with my hand on the LHS of the handle. My echos all do it, they are even worse! The saws with 2 pivot points are a great solution, very effortless. Its probalby the thing i liked the most about my old 066...
Dropping from arms length should engage. Take it back as a first option, if you get no result let us know!
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AndyR
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, my echo is a bit that way too, just a lot smaller, CS440. This saw is going to be in an Alaskan mill most of the time anyway, maybe my lack of experience was making a bigger issue of this than it really is.
stevethekiwi
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use some of my 395's on the alaskan as well... and the 3120's. The only use I have for the brake when milling is when im introducing someone to the double ended mill setups, just so i can keep them safe!
Take the dogs off your 395 for milling, you can get more length out of the mill and they dont hang up on the log.
Also, get yourself a right angle flat head screwdriver. as the 395 is not a side tensioner, its impossible to adjust the chain without one, you will never get a combi spanner in there when its bolted to the mill.
STK
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