Kickback with a Stihl 201T

[Chewbacca10]

Long time lurker; first time poster. Go easy on me.

To make a long story short, I was looking for a maneuverable and quick saw mostly for limbing and cutting saplings and bushes as a complement to my Stihl 291, which I use for felling (some) and bucking (lots) firewood for my stove. After watching a fair amount of reviews, I bought a 201 TC-M after some back and forth between that and a 201 C-EM. My friend uses a 194 T extensively and spoke highly of it. He uses it frequently while maintaining a sizeable hunting property that his family owns.

However, I am kind of wondering if I made the wrong choice. I'm somewhat concerned about kickback while cutting with the 201. Generally, I'm quite careful when I am cutting so that I have only experienced kickback once or twice with the 291 running a green chain, but a top handle saw is definitely a different beast.

Can someone with some experience with the 201 TC-M give me some idea of how much kickback there is with the saw? I have not tried using it yet.

Edited to clarify that this is a 201 TC-M.

 

[Franny K]

What chain is on it? With the Stihl chain on the Stihl shaped bar it probably will plunge in just fine. Try it. Kickback is when you get the dangerous top half of the nose to hit something else at least for me. Have you tested the inertia brake? Hit the nose of the bar against something and see how easy it trips.

 

[guysmiley]

I have a litte top handle echo that I thought my girlfriend could start if she needed to.... but concerned about that I got one of those bolt on tip guards and I must say.... it is a great addition that helps stay out of trouble even though I am of course the only one who has been using it. Of course it limits its use slightly but I think with this saw the benefit outweighs the cons for me.

 

[JohnBPittsburgh007]

It's not that bad on the 201t. But you are correct in thinking you should be careful with it. Top handles take a little getting used to.

I picked up an Echo 355t, and I was cutting up a trailer full of really thin branches, and I made the mistake of grabbing a clump of branches. Then making the cut somewhat close. Well I learned real quick, that because they are really powerful, but light, they can bounce if you're not paying attention.

I'm just grateful that I didn't have to change my name on Arborist Site to 3 finger Johnny

To sum up my top handle experience. I bought one because I thought I would run around "one handing" everything on the ground screaming, "the limb reaper can't be stopped!!!" I almost sliced my fingers, and now have the utmost respect for top handles. I am very careful now. But it wasn't kickback that almost got me I fully concede that I can be a crazy idiot, and you most likely will be fine

 

[Chewbacca10]

What chain is on it? With the Stihl chain on the Stihl shaped bar it probably will plunge in just fine. Try it. Kickback is when you get the dangerous top half of the nose to hit something else at least for me. Have you tested the inertia brake? Hit the nose of the bar against something and see how easy it trips.

It was the one that came with it. I’ll have to check what it was.

I haven’t tested the inertia brake. That’s a good idea.

 

[Chewbacca10]

It's not that bad on the 201t. But you are correct in thinking you should be careful with it. Top handles take a little getting used to.

I picked up an Echo 355t, and I was cutting up a trailer full of really thin branches, and I made the mistake of grabbing a clump of branches. Then making the cut somewhat close. Well I learned real quick, that because they are really powerful, but light, they can bounce if you're not paying attention.

I'm just grateful that I didn't have to change my name on Arborist Site to 3 finger Johnny

To sum up my top handle experience. I bought one because I thought I would run around "one handing" everything on the ground screaming, "the limb reaper can't be stopped!!!" I almost sliced my fingers, and now have the utmost respect for top handles. I am very careful now. But it wasn't kickback that almost got me I fully concede that I can be a crazy idiot, and you most likely will be fine

I’m definitely planning to keep two hands on the saw. There was a thread on social media last year with some guy who saved his coworker by tying a tourniquet around his coworker’s arm. Apparently, the coworker was in a bucket and had one hand on the saw when it kicked back. It drove the point home.

 

[NSEric]

I have a cheapy chinese top handle.
I run safety chain on it, the stuff with the big fins between the cutters. It helps a lot with kick back but you still need to pay attention.
The safety chain cuts plenty fast in small stuff, it only slows you down in wood bigger than 6-8 inch.

 

[SteveSr]

I’m definitely planning to keep two hands on the saw. There was a thread on social media last year with some guy who saved his coworker by tying a tourniquet around his coworker’s arm. Apparently, the coworker was in a bucket and had one hand on the saw when it kicked back. It drove the point home.

Top handle saws are "special purpose arborists saws" and even the USFS doesn't cover them under their Chainsaw Policy. As has been said they are light weight and as such have very little inertia to slow any kickback. Making matters worse with your hands being right next to each other makes it harder to control any kickback if it should happen.

That being said 2-handed sawing is imperative and you need to be constantly aware of where the "blood bubble" i.e. kickback arc is and to keep your body parts out of that path.

 

[stihltech]

One of the tree services (corporate) actually banned top handle saws for the crews due to insurance and injuries. Top handles are great for the intended use. I cringe when I see a non pro get one. If you are worried about kickback do not get a top handle saw. Rear handle affords more leverage against kickback.

 

[Husky77]

At least you know about kickback and asking the questions shows your concern which it turn will makenyoubyhink twice.... which is a good thing but can also be a bad thing. Too much concentration on one thing and something else gets you.
Top handle saws at least where I come from are climbing saws, not to be used on the ground. Saying that I use mine for small stuff and it's great but I do respect it and know what can happen, like most things it's a calculated risk but if you cant see a risk that's when you get hit. It dont matter what chain is on there it can still suprise you with deadly consequences. So take care and only use the top handle when you feel it's safe to.. and never underestimate a small saw! Most chain saw accidents are diy with small saws, the pro in the woods is much safer than a diy fanatic that think they know it all.

 

[Mike Kunte]

As has been alluded to, short, light saws have much greater potential for kickback than do long, heavy ones. Take extra care when handling a top-handle saw, and know at all times where that bar tip is...

Hope this helps.

 

[lone wolf]

Long time lurker; first time poster. Go easy on me.

To make a long story short, I was looking for a maneuverable and quick saw mostly for limbing and cutting saplings and bushes as a complement to my Stihl 291, which I use for felling (some) and bucking (lots) firewood for my stove. After watching a fair amount of reviews, I bought a 201 TC-M after some back and forth between that and a 201 C-EM. My friend uses a 194 T extensively and spoke highly of it. He uses it frequently while maintaining a sizeable hunting property that his family owns.

However, I am kind of wondering if I made the wrong choice. I'm somewhat concerned about kickback while cutting with the 201. Generally, I'm quite careful when I am cutting so that I have only experienced kickback once or twice with the 291 running a green chain, but a top handle saw is definitely a different beast.

Can someone with some experience with the 201 TC-M give me some idea of how much kickback there is with the saw? I have not tried using it yet.

Edited to clarify that this is a 201 TC-M.

Well, are you running it with two hands on it or one? The reason top handles have this reputation is that they beg to be one-handed due to their ergonomics and balance. Keep two hands on it and keep your head off to the side of the path of a projected kickback. Stay aware of the nose of the bar, don't let it contact anything other than it is cutting.

 

[jon@camano]

I have the 201T as well as the 201 rear handle. The 201 rear handle is a nice balanced, snappy saw for its size. You could probably sell the 201T for a minimum loss and purchase a 201 rear handle. It is a much safer option cutting moderate sized limbs.

Jon

 

[Farmer_Nate]

You could sell that POS 201T to me if you need a market.

 

[Chewbacca10]

One of the tree services (corporate) actually banned top handle saws for the crews due to insurance and injuries. Top handles are great for the intended use. I cringe when I see a non pro get one. If you are worried about kickback do not get a top handle saw. Rear handle affords more leverage against kickback.

@stihltech, is it possible to convert the T to the CE-M model? I'm guessing not but figure it might be possible.

Well, are you running it with two hands on it or one? The reason top handles have this reputation is that they beg to be one-handed due to their ergonomics and balance. Keep two hands on it and keep your head off to the side of the path of a projected kickback. Stay aware of the nose of the bar, don't let it contact anything other than it is cutting.

If I use it, I'm keeping two hands on it. I'm a cautious person by nature, and I don't like taking unnecessary risks.

I have the 201T as well as the 201 rear handle. The 201 rear handle is a nice balanced, snappy saw for its size. You could probably sell the 201T for a minimum loss and purchase a 201 rear handle. It is a much safer option cutting moderate sized limbs.

Jon

I went to my dealer with the intention of buying the rear-handle 201. I talked myself into the T C-M, though, as one of my friends cuts extensively with a top-handle and hasn't had issues (that said, he cuts a lot more wood than I do). I think you are exactly right, though, and that I should just have stuck with the original plan. Looks like I might just have to chalk it up to an expensive lesson. The size and weight of the 201C-EM make it look like the perfect smaller saw in my two-saw plan.

 

[Chewbacca10]

You could sell that POS 201T to me if you need a market.

Ha! I am actually not that far from you...

 

[ZeroJunk]

Never poke the nose of the bar in to anything with the chain turning, or not for that matter unless you intend to.
Sounds simple but getting in a hurry and careless will get you.

 

[markle]

My first (and last) top handle saw was the 200T. I’m not too proud to admit I was severely injured when it kicked back on me. I was doing some work at ground level cutting small lateral branches from black cherry trees. I was using it with 2 hands, and when I made the mistake of getting a cut in the kickback zone, it only took a nanosecond for that bar to come back at me at hit me like a sledgehammer. i had been cutting for decades, but never with a top handle saw. My mistake was caused by fatigue…I know it…I admit it…my bust. This could have been a lot worse. My left hand was on the side handle, right hand on the top handle.. the chain brake never had a chance to work in that configuration. Nothing to stop the travel arc snapping back violently, except my body. I offer this story not to be shamed or denigrated, but to hopefully help add emphasis to the extreme caution needed and required to prevent kickback...from ALL saws. I left out the injury details, unless some want to know…stay safe!

 

[IntegrityCarpentry]

My first (and last) top handle saw was the 200T. I’m not too proud to admit I was severely injured when it kicked back on me. I was doing some work at ground level cutting small lateral branches from black cherry trees. I was using it with 2 hands, and when I made the mistake of getting a cut in the kickback zone, it only took a nanosecond for that bar to come back at me at hit me like a sledgehammer. i had been cutting for decades, but never with a top handle saw. My mistake was caused by fatigue…I know it…I admit it…my bust. This could have been a lot worse. My left hand was on the side handle, right hand on the top handle.. the chain brake never had a chance to work in that configuration. Nothing to stop the travel arc snapping back violently, except my body. I offer this story not to be shamed or denigrated, but to hopefully help add emphasis to the extreme caution needed and required to prevent kickback...from ALL saws. I left out the injury details, unless some want to know…stay safe!

Thank you for being humble enough to share your lesson!!!

 

[trains]

Just to add to the party.

dont think that its only little light saws with short bars that are bad with kickback.
No matter what saw your using, know where the bar tip is, and what is around it, and dont get lazy, tired, or rush.

Longer bars and heavy saws can still kick back, no fun dancing with a 660 and 36" bar thats doing circles in the air