Kill Switch Workaround

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VintageHusky

ArboristSite Lurker
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Location
Walworth, NY
Dear Colleagues:
I’m restoring a vintage 77’ Husqvarna 380CD and it’s an old points set up. I had sold it on Eeee bay but for the first time ever it decided not to start. Did all the diagnostics and no spark. So I had to go on the secondary market and the points ignition module I got has many bare wire spots on kill switch especially at the base of the back of the plate. I did all I could to use heated tubing, liquid tape. If my kill switch doesn’t work can I somehow do a workaround? Maybe on the ignition? See photo with green ground screw
 

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Yes! I 'ok get them posted today. Only problem is that I'd need a while working set of points compatible with the 380CD. As you me ruined I think the 2100 has a similar. I'll post pics today. Thanks. Been using this site as a reference for so long but I forgot how kind all the folks are here
 
any pics of the module or parts you might need? I have a box of misc ignition parts, mostly for the 2100 but some may be for a 380 or 480.
Hey my friend: here are photos of the original points and module. While I had to cannibalize the original kill switch end both the installed version and one in pics are identical. Would hooking the kill switch up to the ignition module ground (green screw) work or does it have to be a wire carrying a load?
 

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Hey my friend: here are photos of the original points and module. While I had to cannibalize the original kill switch end both the installed version and one in pics are identical. Would hooking the kill switch up to the ignition module ground (green screw) work or does it have to be a wire carrying a load?
Looks similar to one I have. But, knowing ,very little about this saw at the moment I'm really no help other than a possible used parts source.
I have not worked on a 2100 yet. Just got a running project saw in yesterday to tackle in the winter. I have a lot of research to do in the mean time...may be hitting you up for suggestions :p
 
Looks similar to one I have. But, knowing ,very little about this saw at the moment I'm really no help other than a possible used parts source.
I have not worked on a 2100 yet. Just got a running project saw in yesterday to tackle in the winter. I have a lot of research to do in the mean time...may be hitting you up for suggestions :p
Appreciate. The old 380CD I have shared several parts with other models. I've read through billions of threads and can't remember all but I have a parts list. Wonder if part numbers are same?
 
Looks similar to one I have. But, knowing ,very little about this saw at the moment I'm really no help other than a possible used parts source.
I have not worked on a 2100 yet. Just got a running project saw in yesterday to tackle in the winter. I have a lot of research to do in the mean time...may be hitting you up for suggestions :p
you're right on the 2100. Many old threads and some reputable articles speak of the parts commonality between those saws, as well as the old 80' series and the 77.
 
you're right on the 2100. Many old threads and some reputable articles speak of the parts commonality between those saws, as well as the old 80' series and the 77.
I have a ton to learn before tackling it :p
not even sure which version I have since the info plate is missing. But, it does have the proper chain brake, so, a plus, and that should make it a little later build…or…it got the option when new. Or, it is a complete frankinsaw, lol. Will find out this winter after disassembling it and tracing pt#s. 😁
 
I thought 380s was points and 380cd was non points?

Yup, no factory points on the 380CD. That's an early SEM GE module & flywheel, they’re usually junked as they often failed on the Stihl 041 & 045/056 series too.

Not much choice but to try the used GE, or might get lucky and have a cam lobe on the crankshaft for points to allow for a retrofit. Would need the matching flywheel though.
 
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