Large White Oak split down center

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teiseman

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I have a 120' tall white oak about 40" diameter at base. Starting below the first large limb about 50' up a vertical crack runs up the center of the main trunk of the tree for 10' going well past the large limb. The crack is about 6" wide and you can see completely through to the other side. The crack tapers at both ends but looks likely to grow at each end. If a tree climber has experience with removing a tree like this advice is appreciated. Tree must come down in chunks. Bucket truck is not an option. Climbing nearby trees is not an option. My sense is to first lighten the load/ remove the previously mentioned large limb that is adjacent to the crack and which obviously caused the crack. I am really not sure about cutting the trunk above and below the split. We are dealing with a big oak here. Thanks in advance.
 
Pictures would help, and you should probably put this in the homeowners help forum. You sure on that height? That's pretty tall for a white oak. Jeff

maybe pretty tall in Texas but not in Tennessee. I don't have a picture, but if you can imagine a tall straight white oak (forest style) with a wide split down the center 10feet long. both ends taper. how high above and below the split can I safely cut? no need to reply if you've never seen this kind of thing. thanks.
 
Yeah, I've seen this kind of thing. The reason I ask is most white oaks are more in the 65-80 ' range. The record is 144. It's common for homeowners to overestimate height. Honestly, without pictures it's going to be hard to give you good advice, but I would definitely say this is a tree you need to get a professional in to take care of. You're dealing with a very dangerous situation with a lot of stored energy in that split, with a lot of weight above it. Even with good pictures keep in mind it's no substitute for an experienced pro being able to asses the situation in person. Jeff
 
Yeah, I've seen this kind of thing. The reason I ask is most white oaks are more in the 65-80 ' range. The record is 144. It's common for homeowners to overestimate height. Honestly, without pictures it's going to be hard to give you good advice, but I would definitely say this is a tree you need to get a professional in to take care of. You're dealing with a very dangerous situation with a lot of stored energy in that split, with a lot of weight above it. Even with good pictures keep in mind it's no substitute for an experienced pro being able to asses the situation in person. Jeff

Jeff, if you are trying to help then that's great. Maybe read more and post less. If you just have a little #### you are trying to compensate for, then bug off. I am not a homeowner which is why I am posting on a Commercial Tree Care and Climbing forum. I am a climber and I am asking other climbers advice. You are not a climber as you don't understand a homeowner has neither the skills nor tools nor balls to even consider tackling the removal that I clearly described.
 
Ok first thing is NOWHERE in your post does it say you're a climber or have any experience. Why come in here and ask advice without pics and then shoot your mouth off at the response you get. I think you pretty much just ruined and chance of getting help from anyone. You asked if a climber had experience with this situation that advice would be appreciated that makes you sound inexperienced. Good luck
 
Here is a photo of the tree (background and right) from 100 feet away. the tree on the left is the foreground and about 70 feet away. the crack, again, is about 6 inches at its widest and easily 10 feet long. the branch off to the left is coming from the split tree not the foreground tree. the crack starts below the crotch of this branch and extends above it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3rqbsqdbysal4of/20130807_141944.jpg


https://www.flickr.com/photos/43542857@N07/9461494406/in/photostream/lightbox/


please, if you are a TOOL, do not comment.
 
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It's all good, Ken, he's probably not going to like my answer anyway, which is that there's no way to answer his question without an onsite assesment. One, I would not reccomend climbing past a split of that size. Two, it will be very difficult to tell how far that split goes past where it's visible, leading to several nasty scenarios jst one of which is the mother of all barber chairs. This is a highly hazardous tree, and you really do need to get a professional skilled in storm/hurricane situations. Jeff
 
Ok first thing is NOWHERE in your post does it say you're a climber or have any experience. Why come in here and ask advice without pics and then shoot your mouth off at the response you get. I think you pretty much just ruined and chance of getting help from anyone. You asked if a climber had experience with this situation that advice would be appreciated that makes you sound inexperienced. Good luck

KenJaxitbehindaTree forgive me for assuming you could read between the lines on a "Commercial Tree Care and Climbing" thread, as I said it had to be chunked down, and that a bucket and other trees were not options to assist the removal. I sound inexperienced because I ask the advice of others?? dude, you are clueless. You too clearly are a troll and not a climber. Are there any tree climbers on this site? who knows a safe distance above and below the split to cut?
 
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It's all good, Ken, he's probably not going to like my answer anyway, which is that there's no way to answer his question without an onsite assesment. One, I would not reccomend climbing past a split of that size. Two, it will be very difficult to tell how far that split goes past where it's visible, leading to several nasty scenarios jst one of which is the mother of all barber chairs. This is a highly hazardous tree, and you really do need to get a professional skilled in storm/hurricane situations. Jeff

JollyLOGger I appreciate your answer much more than the first two. Though it is stating the obvious and why I came here in the first place. Like I said, climbing past the split is the only option. So in your opinion it can't be removed without a helicopter?
 
Not necessarily. It's just one of those situations where I don't feel it's responsible to give advice over the internet based on a couple pictures. Thare are a lot of variables in this equation, and I don't know your experience level, how much storm work you've done, what's under the tree, the surrounding area, etc. No offense, but you popped in here as a new member and asked a question that didn't have an answer based on tue info you gave us, didn't give us any background on yourself, and then honestly got a little rude when I asked some valid questions to clarify the situation. You did mention that the other tree is only 70' away' ajd it looks like there are other trees in the area, so that does open up some possibilities.

And by the way, I'd trust Ken on either end of the rope any day. Jeff
 
I'll bite. What is underneath the tree in regards to obstacles? How fresh is the split? Has any reaction wood formed? Is this the most difficult tree you have attempted?


Thanks bro. No new cambium growth. split is fairly fresh I'd say. The tree is the highest canopy and has several smaller trees growing under it. I'd say if the tree came down whole maybe it will bring a half dozen smaller trees down with it and it will hit the customers road which he doesn't want to happen. This is steep terrain close to 30% grade. I don't know if this is a difficult tree but it is a dangerous tree. I have removed many difficult trees. But this is not easy to rig. The tree must be climbed. There are no other trees big enough and close enough to help with the removal.

I am inclined to throw a big binder strap about 1/3 from the top and 1/3 from the bottom of the split and remove the limb that is in the middlet o lighten the load on the split. This was my idea, but I am curious what others would do...
 
Is a tracked lift a option? The only reason a bucket is not a option is access. No climber in his right mind is going to climb above that split and rig or bomb pieces off it. Only safe way is to be off the wood being dropped. If you are a climber rent a lift and top it out. Ken Jax makes a lot of good helpful posts here. My advice would be to listen to what he has to say.
 
If the only things that are going to be damaged are understory trees and a road, I would drop it. What kind of road is it? Have you already sold the job? If not, you can always walk away from it. Tell the client you're going to drop it due to safety concerns for the climber. If he doesn't like it, walk.
 
I have a 120' tall white oak about 40" diameter at base. Starting below the first large limb about 50' up a vertical crack runs up the center of the main trunk of the tree for 10' going well past the large limb. The crack is about 6" wide and you can see completely through to the other side. The crack tapers at both ends but looks likely to grow at each end. If a tree climber has experience with removing a tree like this advice is appreciated. Tree must come down in chunks. Bucket truck is not an option. Climbing nearby trees is not an option. My sense is to first lighten the load/ remove the previously mentioned large limb that is adjacent to the crack and which obviously caused the crack. I am really not sure about cutting the trunk above and below the split. We are dealing with a big oak here. Thanks in advance.

Rowdy heh?
I have done several of these. If you are experienced, then you know that white oak is very strong against the grain, but VERY brittle with the grain. That makes this crack more dangerous. If you have taken the job, I would only use chains and screw binders, at least three of them, to make the crack more secure. Then carefully climb and take down as you normally do.
And like the other guys said, the more info you put into your question, the better answers you will receive. Good luck.
 
Is a tracked lift a option? The only reason a bucket is not a option is access. No climber in his right mind is going to climb above that split and rig or bomb pieces off it. Only safe way is to be off the wood being dropped. If you are a climber rent a lift and top it out. Ken Jax makes a lot of good helpful posts here. My advice would be to listen to what he has to say.

terrain is 30% grade. I'm going to climb above that split and the only question is how. KenJacksitbehindatree is a TOOL who contributed nothing to the conversation.
 
Rope it together , put on a few ratchet straps and chase them with ropes . Also think about roping it to another tree to try to slow the sway . As far as climbing above the split your taking your own ass Into your hands , I would be flopping that tree for sure
 
Rowdy heh?
I have done several of these. If you are experienced, then you know that white oak is very strong against the grain, but VERY brittle with the grain. That makes this crack more dangerous. If you have taken the job, I would only use chains and screw binders, at least three of them, to make the crack more secure. Then carefully climb and take down as you normally do.
And like the other guys said, the more info you put into your question, the better answers you will receive. Good luck.

THanks Bandit Man!! great this is what I was thinking. Ok three instead of two and chains instead of straps. good call.
 

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