Limbing vs. Big Douglas Firs vs. Climbing Spurs : is the damage acceptable?

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exploderator

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Hi all, great forum and great ethics. This is my first post here, with a question for which I've found no clear answers elsewhere. Thanks in advance for any insights you all might have. I am trying to find out if spur climbing will seriously harm my Douglas Fir trees (mostly old with thick bark). I think that I aim to remove their lower branches, both to reduce the overall wind loading that is blowing some of them down, and to reduce the chance of huge lower branches falling on my buildings. I want to keep my trees, and this seems like a good solution. A very few hazard trees might be removed, if truly necessary.

Climbing with spurs seems like the easiest way up for bottom-up limbing (often well over 50'). Climbing with spurs is sadly the unquestioned default norm in this small backwards town, with too many old loggers and too few climbers; it's the only technique available for hire around here. But how dangerous is this damage to my thick bark fir trees? I appreciate how generally bad it is for most trees, that spurs should be seen only as an expedient for tree removal. But are thick barked fir trees a possible exception? And might healthy fir trees also tend to cope with spur damage better than most other species, given that they seem to heal very quickly and very well, with few pests or diseases prevalent in this area? Can I get away with it, or should I?

That's the seed of the question. Now I'll give the long version, and hope that it's a worthy and enjoyable read for you:

I'm in Powell River, south coast of BC, Canada, where Douglas Firs and Hemlocks dominate my area. My acre (lived here all my life) is about 50% covered with lovely firs, many quite large (a few up to 4' diameter near the ground). I love these trees, and I am sad that most people clear their land by default, with seemingly no second thought or question. I have long been saddened that it takes only one of us silly monkeys, armed with just one silly short term whim, and a chainsaw, to remove an ancient voiceless neighbor from this world forever. So many decisions that affect the long term, made just now for such brief reasons. I would not clear my forest unless I was starving and needed the sunlight to grow food for the foreseeable future. But enough philosophy... suffice it to say that I love these trees that I have grown up with, and I wish we would all think at least twice, long and hard, about ending the long lives of trees.

So, as the decades pass, my trees have grown very large, and all my human neighbors have removed ALL of their large trees. Most importantly, this adjacent clearing includes a 100 acre clearcut, the forest I grew up in, which used to shelter my hillside land from the harsh wind storms that sometimes blow chaotic in this mountainous area. My trees now face the gusting gales alone on my lonely remaining forested acre.

Three years back, one fell on my neighbor's house, doing about $35000 in damage. Luckily it was covered by their insurance, and the rebuild was a good improvement to a rotten old deck and shed. Even more luckily, it missed my neighbor herself, by a few golden feet. Shortly thereafter, she had all her large trees cut down, at great expense to their life and beauty, and to her pocketbook. She would feel less fear if my trees were gone too (at least those within reach of her house). But I will not, can not oblige.

My trees are well rooted in well drained, well cemented gravely soil. They seem healthy, with no obvious diseases or past injuries. They grew up facing strong gales from the SW, and have taught me much about strength. But they now also face gales from due east (I miss the forest that once stood next door). These east winds are a new trick for them, and this seems to account for the tree that fell on my neighbor's house. I suspect that it just hadn't grown sufficient roots to brace in that direction, because it was blown out of the ground when it went over.

Speaking with a local "tree service" guy (who seemed fairly with it for this hick town), I confirmed that good old topping is good old retarded, and that removing branches would most likely help these trees by reducing their sail area. My preference would be to start removing branches from the bottom and work up, leaving roughly the top 1/3 to 1/4 of the tree untouched (actually most of the vibrant working canopy). I note that in fully forested areas, most of the trees have shed their lower branches (which received little light as the forest grew up), but that some of the trees on my land have grown up with much open side exposure, and so have retained a large number of lower branches, mostly facing the light. This makes the trees somewhat lopsided, but the SW light exposure also luckily coincides with the old SW wind, so it hasn't been an issue (they are well counterweighted for the SW gales, but not the new east gales). These lower branches are also often huge (maybe 6" to 8" at the trunk, 20' long horizontal, and very dangerous when they occasionally fall). It seems that removing these lower branches might be better for the trees.

I seek comment on this strategy. Can I safely remove all these lower branches, up to the point where I leave a sensible canopy / top?

And if that is a sound strategy, might I get away with using spurs to climb these trees to do it, or would that likely cause serious harm? Spurs would be an easy practical / methodological fit with my expected task, if these trees can safely take the punishment. (and yes I see the irony here, of hurting to help)

The alternative would probably include buying / building a Big Shot to place ropes into the working heights I am after. I have most of the climbing gear (from caving), and enough good sense and skill to do this work and still be here for my kids afterwards. I also have an extremely intelligent and well qualified professional faller as a dear friend, willing consultant and capable tree safety guide, although he is not knowledgeable about keeping trees alive and healthy.
(He calls himself a "Reforestation Site Preparation Technologist and Consultant":chainsaw:)

I hope I have made my questions clear. I welcome all thoughts on these matters. I have a big project on my hands, and doing it right is essential. Thank you for your time reading.
 
Spikes...

As long as the bark is thick enough that the spikes are not penetrating the cambium, you're probably ok. Otherwise, I'd make sure they were done spikeless.

Limbing up...

Leaving only the top 1/4-1/3 of the canopy will significantly change the way the tree is wind loaded, and could possibly cause mid-stem breakage in high wind. Also, removing a large number of living limbs could also send these trees into a spiral of decline.

IMO, you'd be better off by shortening some of the long limbs by 25%, and removing 10-20% of the lower limbs in a spiral pattern up the stem. You'll retain a more natural appearance, lessen wind loading, and give the root system some time to adapt to the new wind on the now open side.

Disclaimer....

I'm not from the PNW, so others are far more qualified than I to offer advice on your trees, and these are just generic suggestions, pics would help to have more specific advise offered.
 
Spikes...

As long as the bark is thick enough that the spikes are not penetrating the cambium, you're probably ok. Otherwise, I'd make sure they were done spikeless.

Limbing up...

Leaving only the top 1/4-1/3 of the canopy will significantly change the way the tree is wind loaded, and could possibly cause mid-stem breakage in high wind. Also, removing a large number of living limbs could also send these trees into a spiral of decline.

IMO, you'd be better off by shortening some of the long limbs by 25%, and removing 10-20% of the lower limbs in a spiral pattern up the stem. You'll retain a more natural appearance, lessen wind loading, and give the root system some time to adapt to the new wind on the now open side.

Disclaimer....

I'm not from the PNW, so others are far more qualified than I to offer advice on your trees, and these are just generic suggestions, pics would help to have more specific advise offered.

I agree with ddhlakebound here. His post is right on. The amount of harm done by spikes depends on numous factors. The likelihood of penetrating the cambium (wood beneath the bark) is high, even with aged trees and thick bark. An equally important factor it not to remove more than 25 percent of a tree when trimming, and trim in a staggered fashion (spiral like ddhlakebound states). Trimming bottom up will make it a wind catch, and even if it does not do mid-stem damage, in winter when the winds and rains come and the soil is soft, it can pull up (uproot) fairly easily. I am from the Northwest and I have seen blow downs countless times with homeowners who have their conifers trimmed up 1/2 or more. They become top-heavy. Howver, the counter point is, I have seen conifers bend over at nearly 90 degrees in windstorms and not give over many years. But the higher you trim the more risk of this. Even in a natural forest setting, as you mention, when firs and other conifers tend to drop many lower branches (due to lack of light) this is usually due to proximity of other trees, which means they are generally more protected from windfall.

Bottom line, it is not all or none with trimming or spikes. The more you do of either, the more the tree is at risk for disease and bug-access. If you go up once or twice and take a few branches here and there (don't just cut the lower ones-leave some low ones and cut here and there as you go up), I am confident that most or all of those towers will outlive you.

Last suggestion, if you do decide to spike climb, and you run a saw while in the tree, PLEASE secure yourself with two separate lines while running a saw. Good luck.

Colby
 
I agree with most the good advice you've been giving so far. But still even with a thick barked tree some damage may be done. 25 years ago we spiked everything. We had several big pondarosa pines we used for training trees. That bark was thick on them trees, yet the sap dripped down from all over where we use to climb them. I don't know much about way up north where your at or what kind of pest you all have to deal with, but any wound can be a dinner bell for some borers and beetles. Just something to think about.
Also something to keep in mind that could concern you and your stand of forest is the effect of removing the front row of trees on any Windward side. The out side trees that have been getting exposed to years of wind and storms have built up reaction wood(or compression wood?) Think of it as tree muscle. The trees that have grown in side protected from the wind won't be as strong. Your neighbors removing Their forest have maybe weakened yours. There have been cases where large tracks of forest that has stood for hundreds of years were flattened in a big blow because the guard trees on the edge of the forest were removed.
If I had to gaff up those trees I would use short dull spikes, so as to do as little damage as possible. A big shot and SRT can sometimes be time consuming to down right impossible in thick cover, and spike or spikeless climbing isn't as easy as it looks. I have lots of respect for you and your devotion to your land, just be carefull and take it slow. Maybe talking to a professional forester would give you some answers. Maybe selective thinning would be beneficial to the overall health of your stand of forest? Good luck. Beastmaster
 
Thank you all for great answers.

It's been busy time, too much out of town work. Thank you all for taking the time to offer good advice.

I think I will go spikeless. All I have to do is get up to the lower branches, and climb from there. It won't be too hard that way.

I will also be careful about the thinning pattern, use a thoughtful spiral, instead of leaving a bunch of poodle tails. The warning of excessive top loading / mid-stem snap is very prudent from what I see.

And yes, I will use two good tie offs at all times while cutting. Now I just have to buy those cable core ropes.

Cheers all, and thanks again.
 

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