Liquid removal of Carbon/Oil deposits?

[oneoldbanjo]

Does anyone know of a chemical/liquid soak that is effective in removing carbon and oil deposits from aluminum? Something that could remove the deposits without harming the aluminum or any steel inserts like studs or threaded inserts? I know that when I take my aluminum cylinder heads to an automotive machine shop they come back all bright and shiny and there is no evidence of them using a scraper or bead blasting the aluminum.

Specifically what I need is a way to clean out an aluminum muffler with steel screening on a 2 stroke engine. This engine does not run hot or fast enough to burn the deposits out on it's own, and eventually the muffler can clog up and it requires a very expensive replacement. Even running the recommended 80:1 mix I get left over oil oozing out of the end of the muffler and out of the gasket between the cylinder and the header pipe. The baffles are not removable for cleaning as they are on most 2 strokes. I don't know if the automotive shops use some kind of a "caustic hot tank" process for aluminum that might work to clean out muffler internal parts?

If no one has any better ideas I may just try sloshing mineral spirits, stoddard solvent or something similar into the muffler and then letting it dry before I run the bike again.

 

[ky-homelite]

I've had decent luck with spray on gasket remover. I can't remember where I heard about that, but I tried it a few times with pretty good results. Usually I'll spray some on, let it soak in....take a dowel or something and remove the goop. Reapply as necessary. You'll have to wash the gasket remover off. Since you're doing a muffler it might be easy to run some water through it after you've got it cleaned up. I believe a can of the gasket remover was about $5 at Advance Auto. Hope this helps you.

 

[stihl only]

caustic will destroy the aluminum and can only be used for steel and cast stuff. You could try GM top engine cleaner. It is made to remove carbon buildup. Put the muffler in a container just big enough for it to fit and fill it with the stuff. Let it soak a couple days if you have the time.

Stihl has an engine de-carbonizer in 8oz bottles that you could try too.

 

[Erick]

Stihl makes a very good carbon remover that works very well and surprisingly fast.

I have also had good luck with long term soaking in Sea Foam but it will still require some scrubbing on your part..... soak.. scrub... soak.. scrub...

I'd try the Stihl product if it were mine and once I had it cleaned out I would try running Sea Foam in the fuel to try and keep the carbon build up to a minimum.

 

[crane]

I've had good luck just soaking the parts in fresh fuel mix. Let it soak up a while and hit it with an old tooth brush. Works good on pistons that have lots of carbon build up and exhaust ports.

 

[2wheels]

I hold the screen with a pair of pliars and touch it with a torch flame and then dust off the ash.

 

[Lakeside53]

It maybe be called so, but the Stihl product is not a "carbon" remover... it's EDTA and is used to remove calcium deposits formed from burning the mix oil.


Seafoam in fuel :taped:


Best way for pistons crowns and alike - die grinder and marroon 3m pad. To keep it down, run a 100% synthetic mix. Any deposits will be soft and to fall off on their own.

Your muffler problem... burn it out... but... carefully due to aluminum... Screens - heat red hot and blow air though them. If your deposit is really calcium additves, EDTA will work but it also attacks brass and aluminum - don't leave it in for more than 4-8 hours (Stihl no longer says "overnight" for EDTA after some failures..

 

[stihl only]

Watch out there! This could just turn into an oil thread!

 

[blackoak]

Does anyone know of a chemical/liquid soak that is effective in removing carbon and oil deposits from aluminum? Something that could remove the deposits without harming the aluminum or any steel inserts like studs or threaded inserts? I know that when I take my aluminum cylinder heads to an automotive machine shop they come back all bright and shiny and there is no evidence of them using a scraper or bead blasting the aluminum.

Specifically what I need is a way to clean out an aluminum muffler with steel screening on a 2 stroke engine. This engine does not run hot or fast enough to burn the deposits out on it's own, and eventually the muffler can clog up and it requires a very expensive replacement. Even running the recommended 80:1 mix I get left over oil oozing out of the end of the muffler and out of the gasket between the cylinder and the header pipe. The baffles are not removable for cleaning as they are on most 2 strokes. I don't know if the automotive shops use some kind of a "caustic hot tank" process for aluminum that might work to clean out muffler internal parts?

If no one has any better ideas I may just try sloshing mineral spirits, stoddard solvent or something similar into the muffler and then letting it dry before I run the bike again.

A bench grinder with a fine wire wheel does a good job.

 

[stihlboy]

Watch out there! This could just turn into an oil thread!

na he didnt say at what ratio to mix it at:taped: :taped: :taped:

 

[stipes]

Have to be carefull ...

I've had decent luck with spray on gasket remover. I can't remember where I heard about that, but I tried it a few times with pretty good results. Usually I'll spray some on, let it soak in....take a dowel or something and remove the goop. Reapply as necessary. You'll have to wash the gasket remover off. Since you're doing a muffler it might be easy to run some water through it after you've got it cleaned up. I believe a can of the gasket remover was about $5 at Advance Auto. Hope this helps you.

Some brands of gasket remover is acid based,,and will burn you up if you get in on bare skin...Also will take paint right off before you know what is happening...Be sure to check out what type you buy....

 

[jburlingham]

Carb and choke cleaner has always served me well. In drastic cases maybe break cleaner.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

I am hoping to flush out as much wet congealed oil from inside the muffler as possible - then maybe proceed to a "careful" burn once the muffler has air dried for a while. I use a full synthetic oil mixed at 80:1 and have just mixed up my first batch of Amsoil Sabre at 100:1 (both the importer and Amsoil confirm this is a safe mix for this engine)....but this is NOT an oil thread!!!! The problem is that these engines are run at very low speed 80% of the time, and the aluminum muffler just doesn't get hot enough to burn up the left over oil).

Here is a picture of an aluminum muffler that a fellow was cleaning out with a heat gun mounted in the inlet. Things were going well and the unused oil was starting to smoke and burn away:

Then I guess what happened is that there was a bit too much unused oil and it ignited.....and at this point he turned the heat off but left the blower on the heat gun running in hopes of burning the oil away completely:

Then when the end of the muffler melted off and fell on the ground he said he got the kind of feeling you would get if you "Put a rubber band around your dangly parts and they fall off!" If you look in the grass you can see the aluminum pieces laying on the ground.

 

[stipes]

What I always hate about aluminum...

Seen too many people at work try to weld with it and it gets to a certain temp,,and it all happens at once,,just a blob of mess.......

 

[Nailgunner]

^^ opcorn: Sorry, but aluminium and fire don't mix.

Dichloromethane based paint stripper may work well. use the thin stuff and soak it. No good for plastics! or paint! Obviously! Cover the container to minimise solvent losses.

 

[Brad101]

The best thing to use for carbon and other deposits in engines I have found is called OMC engine tuner. You can get it at most boat shops. It cost around $6.50 a can. It is like shaving cream and you just let the motor warm up and shoot it down the carb throat while running. Shoot until the motor dies down but not enuff to stop it. Let it clear out and repeat 4 or 5 times. Works wonders, I use it all the time on lots of different engines.