log splitter beam question?

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firemankris

firemankris

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north central massachusetts
I am starting a splitter project and have a few questions. The beam I have is
an old structural beam 5 1/4w x 13 3/4 high x 81" l. I have a 9 hp engine and plan on a 16 gpm pump with a 4x30 piston. My concern is, is the beam going to twist because of the hight? Should I use a smaller beam, or am I over thinking the whole thing. Also the axle I have has full size 15" tires, so with the under carriage,beam, and axle it would be 36" to the top of the beam where the log will sit. Is that to high? I thank you all in advance, from what I have read your combined knowledge is second to none.:bowdown:
 
Butch(OH)

Butch(OH)

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Like they said, depends some on the thickness of the web and flanges but should be OK. As for height why make it to somebody else's spec when it's your back thats laboring? When I built mine I held my arms at comfortable height and put the top of the beam at that height. Tacked some temp legs to it and built the undercarriage. The result is much higher than most you will copy but I am working erect will others are working crouched over.

Mine
<IMG SRC=http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/iphotos/i2938.jpg>
 

jags

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I would agree with Butch on building this thing to match YOU. As a starting point I would suggest that if you can stand upright and touch the beam with the tips of your fingers, you are getting close to the comfort zone. The logic is, that anything that you put on top of the beam should be at a good height for working with it. The only down side would be if you work with alot of really big stuff, then it might get a little tall for ya. Can't have everything ya know.:biggrinbounce2:
 
Butch(OH)

Butch(OH)

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I would agree with Butch on building this thing to match YOU. As a starting point I would suggest that if you can stand upright and touch the beam with the tips of your fingers, you are getting close to the comfort zone. The logic is, that anything that you put on top of the beam should be at a good height for working with it. The only down side would be if you work with alot of really big stuff, then it might get a little tall for ya. Can't have everything ya know.:biggrinbounce2:

Yup ya can have your cake and eat it too, LOL. Put some hydraulic log lifters on it like on the back of mine. My first splitter had a tilting beam for the heavies but working at toe level would give a young man a back ache. I like the lifters on #2 a WHOLE lot better than the tilting beam.
 

mga

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Monticello
post some pictures as you build it!!!

i also used a trailer that was given to me....a boat trailer. i just cut it to size. the I beam or H beam is absorbing all the energy so the trailer is just a means or making it mobile.

my H beam is just bolted to the trailer frames.

DSCF0210.jpg
 

mga

wandering
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Monticello
Mga, nice to see a splitter with suspension much safer when transporting.

leaf springs....can't beat 'em. my only concern was the weight, but after talking to several trailer people, they said i was ok with it.

there are plenty of old boat trailers out there waiting to be used for some thing. lol...my wife says i'm the real Junk Brothers.
 
triptester

triptester

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A 16 gallon two stage pump will work fine with your 9 hp. motor and 4" bore cylinder. A larger pump will require a bigger motor.

I have found that the most cost effective combination is a 5" bore cylinder with a 16 gallon 2-stage pump. Cycle times on paper will show the 4" bore 16 gallon combo to be faster than the 5" bore 16 gallon combo but in actual use there is little to no difference the reason being that the 5" bore produces nearly 50% more tonnage at any given psi with a 2-stage pump than the 4" bore.

The 4" bore will down shift the pump at about 3 1/2 ton. The 5" bore will down shift at about 6 ton. When the pump down shifts it produces less than 4 gpm's.
 

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