log splitter cylinder question

[bearings]

After my last post i looked at your pics again. I noticed that your piston seal looks like its a cast one. You could probally reuse that one but dont try and remove it if you dont want to replace. They break real easy and are not the most common to replace.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I removed the hoses, u-bolts, and rotated the cylinder 180°. I found the slot. It was on the bottom and I could not see it before. As I had feared I did break the lock ring but I was able to get it out and the shaft removed. I am not sure how the lock ring was suppose to be removed but I got it out. It dosn't look new anymore. I am sure it will have to be replaced, can it be replaced?

The lock ring is made of soft steel that bends easy. You rotate the nut the"good" way and the ring feeds out by it self. If you force the nut to rotate the "wrong" way the end of the ring will get "shaved off" and will not come out. Here is a picture to show how it supposed to work.

Before I ask anymore questions about rebuilding this cylinder I guess I should first address a scratch I found on the shaft. It runs the length of the shaft. It looks to be just a surface scratch, but I can just catch my finger nail on it as I drag it across it. Is the shaft toast because of this scratch?

Can you post a close picture of the damage!?

Where is that damage on the rod?? At the end of the rod, not so big deal as on middle, where most of "traffic is"...Will need attention any way.
Not necessary toast. There are ways to repair. If there are material "sticking out" above rod surface, you can use a fine graded file and work it off, then it wont eat up the seals inside the "nut". If there is a "grove" aswell, which can cause both damage to seals and leakage, it can be filled different ways. If the grove is "shallow", it might not need any attention. I have seen certain compounds, (kinda epoxy) being used as filler. A professional machine shop might be able to fill with a welder. Then it might need attention on the chrome too.

 

[Old Goat]

After my last post i looked at your pics again. I noticed that your piston seal looks like its a cast one. You could probally reuse that one but dont try and remove it if you dont want to replace. They break real easy and are not the most common to replace.

I am assuming that I will have to remove the piston seal it in order to replace the shaft seal. The shaft seal is the one that is leaking. It looks as if the nut at the piston end will have to be removed along with the piston seal so I can slide the shaft out of the end nut and replace the shaft seal.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

After my last post i looked at your pics again. I noticed that your piston seal looks like its a cast one. You could probally reuse that one but dont try and remove it if you dont want to replace. They break real easy and are not the most common to replace.

What ever seal there is, I am pretty sure it can be replaced with a std "real". Before taking piston apart, it is good thing to bring that piston to a well stocked hydraulic shop to fit a new seal. Well worth a try!!
Dont forget to repair rod damage AND re-seal the "nut".

 

[Old Goat]

The lock ring is made of soft steel that bends easy. You rotate the nut the"good" way and the ring feeds out by it self. If you force the nut to rotate the "wrong" way the end of the ring will get "shaved off" and will not come out. Here is a picture to show how it supposed to work.


Can you post a close picture of the damage!?

Where is that damage on the rod?? At the end of the rod, not so big deal as on middle, where most of "traffic is"...Will need attention any way.
Not necessary toast. There are ways to repair. If there are material "sticking out" above rod surface, you can use a fine graded file and work it off, then it wont eat up the seals inside the "nut". If there is a "grove" as well, which can cause both damage to seals and leakage, it can be filled different ways. If the grove is "shallow", it might not need any attention. I have seen certain compounds, (kinda epoxy) being used as filler. A professional machine shop might be able to fill with a welder. Then it might need attention on the chrome too.

I turned it both the right way and the wrong way. The problem was that the slot was on the bottom against the splitter so that the locking ring could not come out out of the slot when I turned it the right way. I was able to get a small screwdriver under the end that was shaved off and pry it up to the point that a pair of channel locks could get a bite on it as I turned the nut.

I will try to get some better photos of the scratch. I can not feel it when I run my finger over it, just when I run my finger nail over it can I tell it is there.

I will take the cylinder with me next week when I go to work and have a hydraulic shop / parts dealer give me an assessment of what I need to do, both with seals and taking care of the scratch. The scratch runs almost the entire length of the shaft.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I turned it both the right way and the wrong way. The problem was that the slot was on the bottom against the splitter so that the locking ring could not come out out of the slot when I turned it the right way. I was able to get a small screwdriver under the end that was shaved off and pry it up to the point that a pair of channel locks could get a bite on it as I turned the nut.

Thats ok....I am sure you can get a new lock-ring. You did a good job gett'n it out.
BTW I posted the picture for the rest of the forum....

 

[kevin j]

The shop can give you an idea if it can be buffed out, or filled. If it is small enough, thorough cleaning and filling with super glue can work.