log splitter cylinder replacement

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With the engine off work the valve back and forth to relieve any pressure on the hoses.Crack the fittings on the cylinder slowly just in case you still have pressure.Take then loose and put your new cylinder in.You will lose some fluid so be sure to check it after you've worked the new cylinder back and forth a few times to get all the air out of the system.Your pump also may sound differant for a little while, but should be ok once all the air is worked out.
 
With the engine off work the valve back and forth to relieve any pressure on the hoses.Crack the fittings on the cylinder slowly just in case you still have pressure.Take then loose and put your new cylinder in.You will lose some fluid so be sure to check it after you've worked the new cylinder back and forth a few times to get all the air out of the system.Your pump also may sound differant for a little while, but should be ok once all the air is worked out
Thanks for the info redheadwoodshed. excuse me if I'm a little dense all your saying is just take the old one out and pop in the new one and the air will work its self out. P.S. nice pileated
 
With the engine off work the valve back and forth to relieve any pressure on the hoses.Crack the fittings on the cylinder slowly just in case you still have pressure.Take then loose and put your new cylinder in.You will lose some fluid so be sure to check it after you've worked the new cylinder back and forth a few times to get all the air out of the system.Your pump also may sound differant for a little while, but should be ok once all the air is worked out
Thanks for the info redheadwoodshed. excuse me if I'm a little dense all your saying is just take the old one out and pop in the new one and the air will work its self out. P.S. nice pileated

Yea, pretty much.There could be some stored pressure, hence the need to work the valve with the engine off.Take the old one out pop the new one in.So easy even I can do it.Thanks for the compliment on my pileated!Oh, and I forgot to tell you,Welcome to AS!
 
cycle it back and forth a few times WITHOUT building up an pressure at ends. or stop short of ends of stroke. That will purge the air if the ports are on top. If ports are on side, it may take a few more cycles.

If you build pressure at end, with air in the cylinder, it compresses the air. Then, when you reverse direction the compressed air acts like an accumulator and sends back to return WAY more flow rate than the pump puts out and you can blow the return filter or line.

So nothing fancy, just cycle it unloaded an half dozen times andd you should be fine
 
turns out that there is a clevis at the back end of the new cylinder and my old cylinder has a tab welded on the back of it . I'm having someone cut the double tab off the I beam & and weld a single one on
it. I have a feeling that the welding of a tab on the back of the cylinder was the cause of its hair line crack it developed I,m thinking the vibrations between the two tabs put stress at that point. What do you guys think?
 
turns out that there is a clevis at the back end of the new cylinder and my old cylinder has a tab welded on the back of it . I'm having someone cut the double tab off the I beam & and weld a single one on
it. I have a feeling that the welding of a tab on the back of the cylinder was the cause of its hair line crack it developed I,m thinking the vibrations between the two tabs put stress at that point. What do you guys think?

It could very well be the case, if the broken tab is the only problem on that cylinder, it can be welded back and used again, most cylinders can be re-built if the leak around the seals as well.Don't throw it away.
 
It could very well be the case, if the broken tab is the only problem on that cylinder, it can be welded back and used again, most cylinders can be re-built if the leak around the seals as well.Don't throw it away.

thanks for the advice redhead the crack is in the cylinder its self seller told me it could not be welded I'm thinking the 2" rod is made of stainless and last time I check stainless was going for around a buck a pound other wis e it will just end up sitting in my shed.
 
Not putting down the sellers opinion, but I would have a weld shop or cyl repair shop look at it.
Rods are chrome plated, induction hardened steel (at least good cylinders are) but unlikely to be stainless.
 
Not putting down the sellers opinion, but I would have a weld shop or cyl repair shop look at it.
Rods are chrome plated, induction hardened steel (at least good cylinders are) but unlikely to be stainless.

thanks Kevin for setting me straight this is why I love this site I've learned more on this site than I could have for the rest of my years.
 
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