If you have the right design wedge, you don't need anything higher than that. No need to beat up your hydraulics if you don't need to. Mine is set at 2300. I could go higher, but a few hundred psi isn't going to push through a piece that's stuck, so I leave it low. I know 2300 won't damage anything either. If it's going through pieces good, I wouldn't touch it.
log splitter diagnosis
- Thread starter mmzullo
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I don't split when it's hot out. I just wanted to get rid of the rounds. The highest pressure I've seen was 1600 psi. Except of dead heading the cylinder. Engine never really struggles only running at 3/4 throttle. I'll see if I can find a parts break down of valve.
It did leak from the rear service port and I cleaned the detent spring and ball and that stopped after that. The manual said if it leaked there it was from excess pressure..
It did leak from the rear service port and I cleaned the detent spring and ball and that stopped after that. The manual said if it leaked there it was from excess pressure..
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
A few hundred psi higher certainly can be enough to push through a stubborn piece.
The difference between 2300 psi and 2800 psi on a 5" cylinder is about 5 tons more force.
The difference between 2300 psi and 2800 psi on a 5" cylinder is about 5 tons more force.
Well I found a different engine for my splitter. The 6.5 Briggs ran well but with a 13 gpm pump and running the alt for the battery the engine struggled. Never really had problems but I don't like running full throttle when splitting. I found a honda 9 hp gx270 engine on a bad pressure washer. It was only 65$ so why not. The only draw back was getting a new mount for the pump. I can sell the 6.5 with mount on CL. Mean while I've always wanted a log cradle so I made one. Here are pictures. I'm still think I have to change the valve leaks at rear plug and return doesn't feel right. But here are pictures of the cradle. Looks bigger then it is. Attachments
Looking good but you may have to add bars to narrow the gaps on the log catcher, if a piece of log hooks the cross support behind the wedge things could get bent real quick.
Does the pressure washer engine have a tapered shaft which is common for pressure washers? Finding a coupling adapter for the tapered shaft may not be possible.
Does the pressure washer engine have a tapered shaft which is common for pressure washers? Finding a coupling adapter for the tapered shaft may not be possible.
SWI Don
ArboristSite Guru
You probably want the first area of your outfeed grate to be solid and have a ramp so that gnarly stuff doesn't get caught on it and tear it off. Mine is is solid decked and made as light as possible since my splitter was rear heavy already. We have caught gnarly rounds on the leading edge of mine and it does have a few boo boos as a result. If you can drop it lower than beam top that will help too. Triptester's advise for more bars with a closer spacing is right on. You can gage whether you have them close enough if you can't catch the edge of the cross support with the corner of a split piece.
The Honda engine is a 1" straight shaft so that wasn't a problem. As far as I know the only engines that had tapered shafts where for generators. Some Honda's had a stubby shaft for pressure washers. As for the cradle/ table is the rebar is 3"'s apart so I don't think anything should get caught. I have split 5 or 6 rounds and it went well that's when I added the support shelf mid way because pieces would fall off.
The table is about 2 or 3 inches below the wedge. It is also angled up so I can back a trailer to it and it should just go into the trailer. It just doesn't look like it in the pictures. The table lifts up so a can tow where I have to take it to on my property. It is real heavy but removable. I do have a piece of stainless I can put on it if the narnly stuff get caught up.
I'll keep you posted.
The table is about 2 or 3 inches below the wedge. It is also angled up so I can back a trailer to it and it should just go into the trailer. It just doesn't look like it in the pictures. The table lifts up so a can tow where I have to take it to on my property. It is real heavy but removable. I do have a piece of stainless I can put on it if the narnly stuff get caught up.
I'll keep you posted.
Update on my splitter. Well the table needs to modified a little like some have said. But a old problem has come up with the valve. It's leaking at the rear plug. I'm not going to mess with it. I'm going to get a new valve. My question is inlet outlet is 3/4 so that's good. The working ports are 1/2 on the old valve and 3/4 on the cyclinder. I have new 1/2 hoses on the valve/cylinder already. Should I go and get a new valve prince l-3001 with 3/4 working ports or should I stay with the 1/2 ports? I know buying new hoses and swivels are no big deal maybe 50$. I'm going to change the return hose also. I think the hose is restricting.
I probably should of this when I redid the pump. And of course the way my luck is I found the 9 hp Honda just after I mounted the new 13 gpm pump on the 6.5 engine. I should of bought the 16pgm.
About increasing the pump pressure on the valve my cylinder is only 2000 max psi. So I'm pushing it at 2250.
Thanks for everyone's input.
I probably should of this when I redid the pump. And of course the way my luck is I found the 9 hp Honda just after I mounted the new 13 gpm pump on the 6.5 engine. I should of bought the 16pgm.
About increasing the pump pressure on the valve my cylinder is only 2000 max psi. So I'm pushing it at 2250.
Thanks for everyone's input.
Well I've been procrastinating about buying a valve. I've come to a conclusion finally that they valve is sticking so I'm going to buy a valve. BUT I started the splitter the other day. I always put headphones on when I use power tools especially saw and my splitter but I started the splitter and let it run to get warm and got my headphones. I wanted to see if the fluid gets hot by just running. I noticed a bad buzzing noise. I thought something was leaning against the engine pump or something. Didn't see anything. I touched the high pressure hose from pump to valve it it stopped. It has swivels at both ends. It sound like a garden hose that is getting pinched. This hose is new. Either it's crimped wrong or the swivel just is crap.
Then I started splitting some bid rounds that. Was the base of the tree. Pressure was normal max up to 1500 when it splitt but when it got to something hard it would max out at 2250. But I was feeling around at different components of the splitter for heat and noticed the valve, return line and filter and the back of the cylinder warm almost hot. This was 2 big narly rounds. would you say this is normal for those components to be warmer/ hot. The front of the cylinder was much much cooler.
If there was restrictions in the lines mainly return line would you get a pressure reading?
Also I think it was said to use the hose size that comes from the valve which is 1/2 inch but the valve intake is 3/4. Working ports are 1/2? So I'm going to order a valve and new main hose.
Then I started splitting some bid rounds that. Was the base of the tree. Pressure was normal max up to 1500 when it splitt but when it got to something hard it would max out at 2250. But I was feeling around at different components of the splitter for heat and noticed the valve, return line and filter and the back of the cylinder warm almost hot. This was 2 big narly rounds. would you say this is normal for those components to be warmer/ hot. The front of the cylinder was much much cooler.
If there was restrictions in the lines mainly return line would you get a pressure reading?
Also I think it was said to use the hose size that comes from the valve which is 1/2 inch but the valve intake is 3/4. Working ports are 1/2? So I'm going to order a valve and new main hose.
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