I am located in AK and have got my M7 set up and ready for milling on our remote property. However, I seem to be having alot of trouble getting a level cut out of my wood. There are high spots, low spots uneven spots....you name it, it is there. I have made sure all of my settings are correct, the ground the mill is sitting on is pretty level....it almost seems as though the tree (spruce) is lifting up as I get 3/4 way thru it. At this point, all I am doing is ruining the wood. My chain is sharp, so that issue has been eliminated....any advice?
Logosol M7 help needed
- Thread starter TMS
- Start date
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deeker
Tree Freak
Is the mill where it is attatched to the chainsaw, tight???
A trick I used while using a CSM, and even on occasion with my band mill.
Drive a nail in the extreme bottom of the log, on each end. Tie it down to a crossbunk. Don't hit it on the last cuts......makes a hell of a noise.
The infead side of the log is usually the first to rise.
Another possibility, is the chain sharp on BOTH sides equally???
Good luck
Kevin
Rodney Sinclair
Addicted to ArboristSite
You didn't say what saw or chain you are using, but it sounds like you might have a worn out or bent bar. But I'd check the guide first. You can do this with the string thats on the saw sled.Use a screw driver through those two holes on the end and the string on the screw driver. On the other end let the weight of the saw hold the string tight. Place a quarter under the string on each end and use a third quarter to check all along the guide. If right, the quarter should just slip under the string.
After that check the bar on you saw to see if it's lined up right. Take a 4 foot level and set it on the bar with the saw about half was down the guide. Then stand off about 20 feet in front and look to see if the bar is in line with the guide bar. If the front or back is off, you will see it right away. I had to shim mine to get it level. I used a couple of blades from an old feeler gauge on mine.
If all that checks out, the only thing left is the bar and chain.
Hope this helps
Rodney
After that check the bar on you saw to see if it's lined up right. Take a 4 foot level and set it on the bar with the saw about half was down the guide. Then stand off about 20 feet in front and look to see if the bar is in line with the guide bar. If the front or back is off, you will see it right away. I had to shim mine to get it level. I used a couple of blades from an old feeler gauge on mine.
If all that checks out, the only thing left is the bar and chain.
Hope this helps
Rodney
TedChristiansen
ArboristSite Operative
I had a similar problem with my WWM with Husky 385XP, which turned out to be the bar was not parallel to the guide rail. Place a very straight 1x2 on the bar parallel to the guide rail. Now stand between the log ramps and compare the 1x2 to the guide rail. If they are not parallel I would bet that's the problem.
To correct you need to shim the saw mounting plate between the plate and the aluminum guides.
The cause for this is not the mill itself, rather the as-cast outer surface of the chainsaw clutch cover, which makes the extender nuts not perpendicular to the clutch cover inner surface.
Let me know if this works.
Ted
To correct you need to shim the saw mounting plate between the plate and the aluminum guides.
The cause for this is not the mill itself, rather the as-cast outer surface of the chainsaw clutch cover, which makes the extender nuts not perpendicular to the clutch cover inner surface.
Let me know if this works.
Ted
