Looking at a Stihl 066

[oldmanriver]

Hi Guys, I've been wanting to add a Stihl 066 to my arsenal for those rare occasions that I need one. Not being all that familiar with the 066 can any of you that are familiar with it give me a heads up on what to check for other than the general checklist when looking into getting a used saw. Thanks ~Zane

 

[gcdible1]

Im subbing in on this one. I actually have an 066 should be arriving at masterminds soon. I have been told that the poly flywheel ones spool up faster and more parts interchange with the 660's. That being said the earlier non decompression valved cylinders are in high demand for builders. If i were buying one, (i traded 4 saws for mine) id stick with the factory full wrap version. It will include the HD Oiler and other worthwhile goodies.

 

[asdf4240]

I'm assuming this is a working saw, so taking that in to consideration you will most likely being looking at $500+ dollars. For this kind of money I would definitely do the following:

1) Remove the muffler and inspect the piston for scoring.
2) If you have the ability I would highly recommend a pressure/vacuum check of the saw.
3) Test the compression of the saw warmed up.
4) check the clutch for over heating. The drum or the clutch itself will look blueish in color. Also, massive browning on the plastics around the brake.

Other things I consider in the price.
1) Does it need fuel and impulse lines. Mainly look for cracking.
2) Filters, air and fuel
3) Spark plug.
4) Does the carb need rebuilt?
5) Condition of the bar, chain(s), and sprocket.
6) broken plastics and handles?

I personally believe the above maintenance items also show you how well the saw was taking care as well.

In a nutshell be careful because a bad saw can be made to run well for a few minutes. Good luck.

 

[gcdible1]

I agree with the above. I may be selling mine after mastermind checks it out and tunes it. Not 100% on that, I may have a hard time parting with it. But, for firewood, I honestly dont need that big of a saw. I just wanted one

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Hey Zane your really gonna get something that big??
Good on you

Check for the usual things, compression, nice fat spark, make sure it wasnt beat to piss. Some of them loggers will use there saws for pounding in wedges :bang:

Good luck with the hunt! I love mine!

 

[oldmanriver]

The 066 I'm going to look at is a one owner and the older gentleman who owns it says it's just to heavy for him anymore. How heavy are the 066's minus the bar? Also, on a saw this big I prefer a full wrap handle (which it doesn't have) so I would have to purchase one but when looking for one online for a used one I cant seem find one. Is there a reason for this? Or is it that when a full wrap becomes available everyone else wants one so the go fast? Just curious..

Thanks for your input guys, very helpful.

 

[blsnelling]

I'm assuming this is a working saw, so taking that in to consideration you will most likely being looking at $500+ dollars. For this kind of money I would definitely do the following:

1) Remove the muffler and inspect the piston for scoring.
2) If you have the ability I would highly recommend a pressure/vacuum check of the saw.
3) Test the compression of the saw warmed up.
4) check the clutch for over heating. The drum or the clutch itself will look blueish in color. Also, massive browning on the plastics around the brake.

Other things I consider in the price.
1) Does it need fuel and impulse lines. Mainly look for cracking.
2) Filters, air and fuel
3) Spark plug.
4) Does the carb need rebuilt?
5) Condition of the bar, chain(s), and sprocket.
6) broken plastics and handles?

I personally believe the above maintenance items also show you how well the saw was taking care as well.

In a nutshell be careful because a bad saw can be made to run well for a few minutes. Good luck.

All of that stuff is good to check after you but it, but not practical before hand. You can check the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

I don't see any seller letting you take their saw apart to do a vac check. That's just a risk you take when buying a used saw. Besides, it's cheap to fix.

Compression is usually checked on a cold saw.

About all you can do is a visual inspection and see if it runs good, maybe a compression test. IMHO, asking to do much more is intrusive to the seller.

 

[d in the tree]

Full wrap

Bailey's has them in stock. About $120.00 plus shipping. I had to trim the chain brake handle and the rubber on the handle a little, but well worth it. Larger diameter, good feel, but hard to flush cut stumps.

 

[rob066]

Look directly behind the chain cover on the rear handle. Look there to see if that area is damaged from a derailed chain slapping it. Some 066s have a metal guard on the rear handle and some dont. Also look to see if the seam of the fuel tank dont leak. Handle and tank assemblies can be costly to fix.

 

[asdf4240]

All of that stuff is good to check after you but it, but not practical before hand. You can check the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

I don't see any seller letting you take their saw apart to do a vac check. That's just a risk you take when buying a used saw. Besides, it's cheap to fix.

Compression is usually checked on a cold saw.

About all you can do is a visual inspection and see if it runs good, maybe a compression test. IMHO, asking to do much more is intrusive to the seller.

Brad, I would agree with you if he is paying less than $300.

But if someone is paying more than $500 or $600 for a 10 year old saw. I would highly recommend having it checked it out. And if the buyer is not able to check it out, then find a dealer and spend a few bucks to have it checked out. I'm guessing but a dealer shouldn't charge more then $40-45.

For example, I'm currently talking with someone about purchasing their 3 year "new" Stihl MS460 (with 10 hours of use??) for around $650. There is NO WAY I'm going to buy this saw for that kind of money without checking the piston for scoring, removing the muffler is 4 bolts. And if your taking the spark plug out to look at the cylinder wall, then may as well do a compression test. If the seller objects then I will walk away.

Helpful note:
I haven't proved this yet but I believe a very simple seal (vac/pres) test is to warm up the saw and sit it flat and see how it idles. While the saw is still idling place the nose down for a few seconds and observe the idle. It should be the same. Repeat this process nose up, clutch side down, and clutch side up. I believe any change in idle represents a leak in the up area.

Anyhow, I'm just trying to be helpful. I don't want to see anyone pay $600+ for a used saw and have to put another $200 into it. Good luck with the purchase.

 

[bowtechmadman]

Nothing really to add except that I would inquire of the owner if he would mind you tearing into it prior to go seeing it. Tell the owner exactly what you'd like to do to "check the saw out". Much less obtrusive this way I believe.
The pawn shop is used to having me pull mufflers, spark plugs etc when I check out a saw and they have never had an issue w/ it. They mentioned it might be good if they could have me check saws out for them when people are trying to sell them to them.

 

[mdavlee]

I would pull the plug and peek through the hole and check the compression by picking it up by the rope and seeing how fast it drops. I won't pay much over half of new unless the saw is new looking. I would rather buy a box of parts and fix it up to pay over $500 for a well used saw. Atleast when I do the other I know what I've got instead of thinking I've got something good and it turn into a money pit.

 

[oldmanriver]

Just got a email from the man selling the saw and I've pasted what he wrote below. Now this is the type of seller I like to deal with, he's all right.

"Give me a call Friday and pick a place and I'll meet you and let you run the saw all you want, or you can take it to a shop and have it checked out. However you want to check it out is fine with me. It's not shiny or new but it's a good solid saw that you don't have to worry about."

Thanks again guys and if anybody has anymore things I will want to check, or have check, then I will do so when I meet with him on Friday.

 

[fearofpavement]

When I was looking at the 066 I purchased around Christmas time, the owner had a big pile of logs and told me to cut away since they all needed to be cut up anyway. I had the family waiting in the car but I made probably 20 bucking cuts in 10" to 14" oak and it seemed fine so I paid him the money. Overall I have been happy with the saw and it turns out is is a very late model 066 which is nearly identical to the 660 (which I also have)

 

[oldmanriver]

066rl

Well got the 066 today and I'm really impressed with the power this saws has. Also got a 20", 32" and 36" bars and chains along with a NPW big bore kit the man had bought from Baileys if the motor was to ever go bad on him.

I noticed when I got there that the 066 is a Red Light model. What all differentiates the red light model from the other 066 models? Also has the duel port exhaust.

 

[procarbine2k1]

Nice looking saw!

 

[roostersgt]

Been looking at 066's myself. Nice looking saw. No reason for me to actually own one, because I don't have any wood large enough to justify that big a saw. Kind of "talked" out of it and into looking into a 441cm after looking at the pics and reading what a man from Kentucky (Slamm) posted here. That guy cuts a lot of big timber and seems extremely enthusiastic about the 441cm over the 066 he's used. Reportedly runs a 28" bar really well.

 

[oldmanriver]

Been looking at 066's myself. Nice looking saw. No reason for me to actually own one, because I don't have any wood large enough to justify that big a saw. Kind of "talked" out of it and into looking into a 441cm after looking at the pics and reading what a man from Kentucky (Slamm) posted here. That guy cuts a lot of big timber and seems extremely enthusiastic about the 441cm over the 066 he's used. Reportedly runs a 28" bar really well.

The 066 is definitely not the saw I will be taking to the woods each and every time I go either. In my part of the country a saw as big as a 036 is really about all a guy needs. But every once in a while I'll have to take one of those really big Oklahoma Hickory's down and I like to have the tools I need at my disposal. I don't like to borrow and don't like to rent. Got a awesome deal on the 066 and just couldn't walk away. The older gentleman I got it from walked away with my MS270 and I walked away with his 066. We were both smiling like a opossum eating $hit :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[roostersgt]

I can't really justify either saw. No real need for running a 24" bar, but I have them on 3 saws. CAD issue. I'd just like to find a smokin' deal on a big boy, big displacement saw for the fun of it. You know, something with more than 80cc+, a loud muffler and a 32" + bar to get the neighbors concerned when I fire it up in the garage or backyard. I miss my "jetboat" days! Kids, family and bills limit spending.

 

[oldmanriver]

I miss my "jetboat" days! Kids, family and bills limit spending.

You got that right :biggrin: