Looking for another saw for milling - 075?

[DaltonPaull]

I'm still waiting for parts to get the 066 going again (forgot to order the compression release plug when I ordered the big bore kit) so I'm thinking more and more that I would like to have a spare saw that I can mill with and when both are working, one saw that can be dedicated to bucking with a different chain.

My favorite options are:

Another 066 - I like the one I have, parts are easy to get and the spare parts and repair experience I'm accumulating would interchange. Plus, if I ever need to mill something really huge, I could get a double ended bar and run both 066's which sounds like fun to me.

090 - Seams like the ultimate saw for milling but they are hard to find although spare parts are easy to find.

070 - Next best cheaper alternative that I could turn into a 090 if I ever had to rebuild it.

Anyway I posted a wanted add for one of these saws and someone replied that he had a 075 with no bar and he would like $300 for it. Does anyone have any thoughts on the 075 for milling? Is it an upgrade over a 066? Is the price right? Are the parts easy/cheap enough to get?

And finally, does anyone have one of the saws I've mentioned that they would like to part with?

Tanks for the input
Dalton

 

[outdoorlivin247]

Don't know if it is still available...And it is on the other side of the world...

http://daytona.craigslist.org/tls/993359503.html

 

[BlueRider]

$300 for a 075 with good compression and a good oil pump is a fair price if it had a decent bar it would be a steal. it will out perform your 066 as well as the 070 you want. it will almost keep up with an 088 and won't lose too much ground to an 090.

They are easier to work on than the 066 and because most parts from an 051 will fit they are easy to find parts for. Some parts are even still available from a good dealer. on the down side the bar from your 066 wont fit the 075, but it wont fit the 070/090 either.

 

[Terrance]

Chain saw 070

I have two brand new, never used neither open yet, StiHl 070 chain that I could sell to you.I Bought few that I m shipping over to West Africa but the shipping is too high so I m will to sell two to settle that. This 070 is an impressive piece of saw judging from its power

 

[DaltonPaull]

Well I just picked up the 075 for $280. After several flushes of the fuel tank and dismantling and soaking the carb it sounds great! Had a good coat of varnish on everything. Guy I bought it from said his father in law last used it to cut on Mt Saint Helans pre-eruption (1980.) Spent another $100 on the 41inch bar up at Cowlitz rigging up in Longview Wa and took the spikes off for a tad more capacity in the Alaskan mill. One down side with this saw is that it has the chain adjust in the front so I'll have to take it out of the mill and adjust as the chain breaks in. Can't wait to try it out on some wood tomorrow!

But out of curiosity - how much are you looking to get for the 070's?

 

[Terrance]

070 Chain saw

Sent me your best Offer for 1 piece

 

[BlueRider]

Well I just picked up the 075 for $280. After several flushes of the fuel tank and dismantling and soaking the carb it sounds great! Had a good coat of varnish on everything. Guy I bought it from said his father in law last used it to cut on Mt Saint Helans pre-eruption (1980.) Spent another $100 on the 41inch bar up at Cowlitz rigging up in Longview Wa and took the spikes off for a tad more capacity in the Alaskan mill. One down side with this saw is that it has the chain adjust in the front so I'll have to take it out of the mill and adjust as the chain breaks in. Can't wait to try it out on some wood tomorrow!

But out of curiosity - how much are you looking to get for the 070's?

If it was that gunked up with varnish you may need to clean the seat under the plunger in the carb. The best way I have found to do this is to use the paper shaft or a johnson and johnson brand Q-tip. You cut the end with the cotton off and then sharpen it to a point with a razor blade then dip it in a bit of mineral oil and insert it into the seat, use plenty of pressure and turn it around a bit. don't forget to clean the varnish off the rubber plunger tip too. this will really help if you are having problems with rough idleing.

It is easy to adjust the chain while the saw is in the mill. just loosen the bar bolts and pull the handle towarde the top of the saw. Keep pressure on the handle and retighten the bar bolts. this works so well that I have never gotten around to drilling a hole in the mill so I can reach the chain adjuster screw.

A word of caution, use the compression release, the 20cc difference between the 066 and the 075 is enough to rip the fingers off your hand. DAMHIKT

 

[DaltonPaull]

Yeah, I'm using the compression release but I've forgot a few times and it didn't feel very good! Nice and easy to pull with it though!

I brought it into Cowlitz rigging with me and the owner told me about how he used to sell tons of 075's back in the day and everyone was taking out the compression release to improve reliability. That's a little too macho for me though.....

Plunger?? I took out both needles and both diaphragms and soaked the carb like that for an hour in fresh gas, swished it around, replaced the gas with fresh and soaked it again. By plunger you mean the part that the compensation diaphragm moves in and out? I gues I should have taken that out too while I was in there. It's idling great though now. I'm just worried about anything that could cause a lean condition during milling. Here's a silly little video showing how it's running. Notice how I almost forgot the compression release?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yi-7Wz1Ol8

I used paint thinner in the fuel tank but it didn't dissolve the varnish as well as I would have liked, maybe next time I'll try mineral oil.

 

[DaltonPaull]

So, your method of changing the tension in the mill is just like lifting up on the tip of the bar with the nuts loose when not in the mill? I usually lift up the bar while I set the tension and then hold it up while I tighten the nuts. So to use your method I should set initial tension with the bar down so that I've got some room to play with in the mill? I'm I understanding correctly?

Sounds like this should save me a lot of hassle!

 

[BobL]

That looks like a really nice saw - good score!

RE: handle / chain tension method. I have done this on my small mill but can't do it on my big mill because saw/mill/bar are all held together by the bar bolts. I found the handle / chain tension method only works over a limited range, so with a new chain I find I have to retension using the adjuster and then drilling a hole in the mill is still a good idea.

I didn't have a compression release on my 076 and eventually I got round to putting one on there but it doesn't seem to do anything. Out or in - it does not release the compression. Anyway I'm used to it now, 3 pulls for a cold start and 1 for a warm. reliable as ever. One thing that annoys me about them is a full fuel refill is not possible when it's in the cut but this won't be a prob with the 880 - easier chain tension adjusting too.

 

[DaltonPaull]

Does the 880 mill much faster than your 076? You point out some good advantages but I couldn't get one for $280!

At least it looks like a good sized tank - long as I can finish a cut on one tank it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

 

[BlueRider]

Yeah, I'm using the compression release but I've forgot a few times and it didn't feel very good! Nice and easy to pull with it though!

I brought it into Cowlitz rigging with me and the owner told me about how he used to sell tons of 075's back in the day and everyone was taking out the compression release to improve reliability. That's a little too macho for me though.....

Plunger?? I took out both needles and both diaphragms and soaked the carb like that for an hour in fresh gas, swished it around, replaced the gas with fresh and soaked it again. By plunger you mean the part that the compensation diaphragm moves in and out? I gues I should have taken that out too while I was in there. It's idling great though now. I'm just worried about anything that could cause a lean condition during milling. Here's a silly little video showing how it's running. Notice how I almost forgot the compression release?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yi-7Wz1Ol8

I used paint thinner in the fuel tank but it didn't dissolve the varnish as well as I would have liked, maybe next time I'll try mineral oil.

I don't have a compression release on my 051 and didn't use it on my 075 which is actually a converted 051. then the rings seated and it was a diferent animal.

If it is running don't wory about the plunger till you need to rebuild the carb.

The setings for the carb on an 075 are 1 turn out fore the L screw and 1 1/4 turn out for the H screw. the carb has a rev limiter that dumps gas in the carb at high rpm so it tends to richen up rather than lean out unless you have an air leak. I still fine tune by ear but it is so close to the default settings I think it is only compensating for the weather and if my filter is not 100% clean.

 

[BlueRider]

So, your method of changing the tension in the mill is just like lifting up on the tip of the bar with the nuts loose when not in the mill? I usually lift up the bar while I set the tension and then hold it up while I tighten the nuts. So to use your method I should set initial tension with the bar down so that I've got some room to play with in the mill? I'm I understanding correctly?

Sounds like this should save me a lot of hassle!

When I initially set the tension I do it with the saw sitting with the bar off the ground but without supporting the end of the bar.

 

[BlueRider]

That looks like a really nice saw - good score!

RE: handle / chain tension method. I have done this on my small mill but can't do it on my big mill because saw/mill/bar are all held together by the bar bolts. I found the handle / chain tension method only works over a limited range, so with a new chain I find I have to retension using the adjuster and then drilling a hole in the mill is still a good idea.

QUOTE]

Last time out I had a new loop of chain (122 Drive links of 404)and to my surprise I was able to take up all the stretch without having to remove the saw from the mill. I was expecting to have to take the saw out at least once. I cut 8 slabs of walnut and the slabs were between 24"-36". I think drilling a hole is a good Idea, just never seem to remember to do it.

 

[BobL]

Last time out I had a new loop of chain (122 Drive links of 404)and to my surprise I was able to take up all the stretch without having to remove the saw from the mill. I was expecting to have to take the saw out at least once. I cut 8 slabs of walnut and the slabs were between 24"-36". I think drilling a hole is a good Idea, just never seem to remember to do it.

I think the degree of initial chain stretching might have something to do with the hardness of the wood and the size of the logs I was milling. When I start with a new chain on some of the harder Aussie woods, the stretch is very significant, and I might have to retension twice during the first cut. This means removing the mill from the cut so it is a PITA.

Does the 880 mill much faster than your 076? You point out some good advantages but I couldn't get one for $280! At least it looks like a good sized tank - long as I can finish a cut on one tank it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

I still haven't tried out the 880 - I only got it about 4 weeks ago and it's still too hot to mill here at the moment. On the 076 fuel use is closely tied to the type of wood, size of the cut and chain sharp sharpness. Even so on some cuts I require 2-3 partial refills to get thru a cut.

Cheers

 

[BlueRider]

I think the degree of initial chain stretching might have something to do with the hardness of the wood and the size of the logs I was milling. When I start with a new chain on some of the harder Aussie woods, the stretch is very significant, and I might have to retension twice during the first cut. This means removing the mill from the cut so it is a PITA.



I still haven't tried out the 880 - I only got it about 4 weeks ago and it's still too hot to mill here at the moment. On the 076 fuel use is closely tied to the type of wood, size of the cut and chain sharp sharpness. Even so on some cuts I require 2-3 partial refills to get thru a cut.

Cheers

I agree 100%. I have noticed in the past that it takes longer to break in a chain when milling narow boards. and a chain breaks in faster on a wood that is hard to mill too.

I wonder if there isn't something more accurate than janka hardness for predicting the dificulty of milling. The janka hardness for walnut is higher than that of macrocarpa but macrocarpa is much slower to mill. I am guessing it is because of silica encapsulation. I know Aussie woods are substantialy harder but as far as milling is the janka hardness always the best comparative measure. Ie is the hardest janka wood always the slowest to mill or have you noticed other factors as well?

 

[BobL]

I agree 100%. I have noticed in the past that it takes longer to break in a chain when milling narow boards. and a chain breaks in faster on a wood that is hard to mill too.

I wonder if there isn't something more accurate than janka hardness for predicting the dificulty of milling. The janka hardness for walnut is higher than that of macrocarpa but macrocarpa is much slower to mill. I am guessing it is because of silica encapsulation. I know Aussie woods are substantialy harder but as far as milling is the janka hardness always the best comparative measure. Ie is the hardest janka wood always the slowest to mill or have you noticed other factors as well?

Yep I agree, Janka hardnes is only one indicator. Silica uptake and encapsulation is another, the stickiness of the resin is another. No matter how sharp the chain is to start with, when the sharpness starts wearing off, all cutting that does not involve noodles includes a certain amount of wood fibre crushing/tearing. One factor that determines how easily this happens is the Shear Modulus of the timber and perhaps the degree of fibre interlock. We have a tree here called Tuart, it's Janka hardness is high but it seems much harder because of all these factors, once the chain gets in the slightest blunt it's like cutting something that is 25% harder than it is supposed to be.

 

[DaltonPaull]

For the most part the 075 performed well during it's first day of milling. It seams to be able to hog though wood faster than an 066. No complaints about how fast it cut through walnut. I was having a problem though where when I let it idle for a while (like when I was putting in some kerf wedges) it would start to slow down and sound like it wanted to die. When I squeezed the throttle it would hesitate, sometimes finally revving fine if I applied gradual throttle, and a few just times dieing. Does this sound like it could be caused by a varnished plunger? Maybe I should clean the carb out again. I'm using the carb settings suggested by Bluerider 1 turn out on the L and 1.25 turns out on the high. Its possible I just need to turn up the idle speed a little but that's not really how it seamed.

 

[BobL]

I'm using the carb settings suggested by Bluerider 1 turn out on the L and 1.25 turns out on the high. Its possible I just need to turn up the idle speed a little but that's not really how it seamed.

Nice crotch!

yeah turning up the idle is fine provided the chain comes to a complete stop quickly. Maybe also check your crankcase vacuum/pressure as well.

 

[BlueRider]

For the most part the 075 performed well during it's first day of milling. It seams to be able to hog though wood faster than an 066. No complaints about how fast it cut through walnut. I was having a problem though where when I let it idle for a while (like when I was putting in some kerf wedges) it would start to slow down and sound like it wanted to die. When I squeezed the throttle it would hesitate, sometimes finally revving fine if I applied gradual throttle, and a few just times dieing. Does this sound like it could be caused by a varnished plunger? Maybe I should clean the carb out again. I'm using the carb settings suggested by Bluerider 1 turn out on the L and 1.25 turns out on the high. Its possible I just need to turn up the idle speed a little but that's not really how it seamed.

I never get tired of seeing walnut like that. As far as the carb goes it sounds like it may need a rebuild kit. The bad idleing could be varnish on the plunger seat in the carb. What can happen is a bit of varnish will break off and then the plunger cant seat. When you pull it apart be carefull not to lose the tiny spring under the plunger rocker. It could also be a bad diaphram. If you go to this link you can down load a manual with some good diagrams and directions for how to rebuild the carb.

http://www.tillotson.ie/till3.html

You can also follow the link to find a distributer for a rebuild kit. I paid $8.95 for mine. even with the $9 shipping it was still cheaper than the $26 my local dealer wanted. Not to mention that I have 3 carbs that needed kits.

I'm not surprised the 075 cut better than your 066, with a 20cc advantage and more torque it should. The 075 is only 10cc smaller than an 880 and has the torque advantage so it should almost keep up with the bigger saw. it will be interesting to hear how Bob's 880 compares with his 075.