Looking for some tips for my 346xp

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The e3 gave me better throttle response it was just a chance to try one. It's cuts great for a small saw. But if there's a kosher reason for removing it and putting the ngk back in please explain. Thanks for the tips guys.

Remember the simplest possibility of all - a carb that is set too rich on the H side! Mine was that way from the factory. :msp_wink:
 
So, what you're saying is don't use a tach to tune a saw with a limited coil but if you do, do the opposite.:msp_w00t:

Ime, it is easy to tell from the tach readings if you are on the limiter or not, but tachs could of course be acting differently? :confused:
 
The e3 gave me better throttle response it was just a chance to try one. It's cuts great for a small saw. But if there's a kosher reason for removing it and putting the ngk back in please explain. Thanks for the tips guys.



I have thousands of hours of behind me using NGK plugs in motorcycles, ATVs, PWC, saws, brushcutters, blowers, mowers, etc. Never have I had a plug fail on its own accord. The Bosch plugs in my Stihls work flawlessly.

I would love to hear about any successful engine builder using E3 plugs in competition that wasn't sponsored by E3.

Since you came to AS for tips on tuning, see what some of the members have to say about them:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/201551.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/193707.htm

If you screwed an E3 plug into a dog turd the turd would lose value.

.
 
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I fail to see why anyone would obsess about peak UNLOADED engine rpm. Let's see you do that with your car! :msp_w00t:

Meaning that doing so just puts huge stresses on the moving parts for the sake of a number, and maybe some bragging rights? W T F!

The 346xp will output peak power right about 9600 rpm absent nitrous. That region of the rev-band is the one of interest to me. That it peaks there, with mixture that'll enable it to survive. An extra 4K rpm for what?

It should 2-stroke cleanly in the cut @WOT WITHOUT "DOGGING-IN" and should 4-stroke when you lift. Presuming the usual necessaries like a sharp, lubed chain. That's as good as it'll get, and gives the best chance of staying so.

Presuming that you don't see the saw as disposable in the light of ego. Yeah, lose the funky plug. Mayhem happens fast in a serious 2-stroke.
 
I fail to see why anyone would obsess about peak UNLOADED engine rpm. Let's see you do that with your car! :msp_w00t:

Meaning that doing so just puts huge stresses on the moving parts for the sake of a number, and maybe some bragging rights? W T F!

The 346xp will output peak power right about 9600 rpm absent nitrous. That region of the rev-band is the one of interest to me. That it peaks there, with mixture that'll enable it to survive. An extra 4K rpm for what?

It should 2-stroke cleanly in the cut @WOT WITHOUT "DOGGING-IN" and should 4-stroke when you lift. Presuming the usual necessaries like a sharp, lubed chain. That's as good as it'll get, and gives the best chance of staying so.

Presuming that you don't see the saw as disposable in the light of ego. Yeah, lose the funky plug. Mayhem happens fast in a serious 2-stroke.

What cuts wood is the chain speed and design/condition of the chain - peak power rpm and peak power itself are just theoretical numbers, used for comparisons - and just a snapshot of one point in the power curve......
 
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So, what you're saying is don't use a tach to tune a saw with a limited coil but if you do, do the opposite.:msp_w00t:

Sort of, The best way to tune any saw is in the cut to achieve the best rpm while it's working. I've read that the readings vary with different types of tachs with limited coils. Some just go nuts & some don't, mine usually just starts reading less rpms or sparks per minute.
 
Well found the problem it was set very rich the plastic screw cap kept it from turning far enough to lean out at all. I tuned it at 14,500 which is what it cuts best and is rich enough it won't burn up. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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