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What are you meaning by ornamentals in this case? I am pruning hardwoods such as oaks, walnut, hickory, maple.

If you find the anvil loppers working better than good bypass loppers, check the angle on the bypass lopper blade, and the angle of the shearing corner on the bypass anvil. Both need to be re-ground now and then, and the anvil corner is often overlooked but very important to a clean cut. Sand and grit will wreak havoc on them if they are used a lot, and it's normal for us to re-grind 2-3 times a season when they start getting balky at the last bit of the cut.

There is a LOT less damage done to the remaining stub with sharp bypass pruners, and a significantly lower succeptibility to pathogens.
MSU did a study half a dozen years ago and the difference was impressive.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
What are you meaning by ornamentals in this case?

You are right - I should have used that term more carefully.

What I meant is that if you are just cutting through brush and not overly concerned about the appearance of the remaining tree, bush, shrub, etc., the anvil pruners are fine. If you are doing more fine work, where the aesthetics of the remaining plant are very important, where the cut off portions are are very visible, where they are higher value plants or softer stems/branches, etc., you should consider a sharp bypass pruner.

Good point by dingeryote - all cutting tools require some maintenance to keep them operating optimally.

Philbert


(whew ! Wikipedia agrees with me):
"Ornamental plants are plants that are grown for decorative purposes in gardens and landscape design projects, as house plants, for cut flowers and specimen display. The cultivation of these forms a major branch of horticulture."
 
How are people sharpening these tools? ....including, how is the corner sharpened on the anvil tool?
 
How are people sharpening these tools? ....including, how is the corner sharpened on the anvil tool?

On bypass pruners the blade angle is re-set on a grinder with a fixture, then the backside is surface ground.
The Anvil side is surface ground on the backside to get the corner back.

The little carbide scrapers work to get an edge back but after 3-4 times the angle gets boogered, and there's not a whole lot that can be done without a surface grinder on the anvil side.

Generally the Orchard supply shops and hardwares in Ag communitys that cater to us orchard guys, will have the set up to maintain what they sell, and warranty the Coronas, and can handle the other stuff as well. Check with the local hardware that does tool sharpening and they should be savvy, if not find a sharp shop.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Anvil or Bypass, Which is easier?

Anvil will cut everything - live or dead, but uses more of a crushing action, compressing live fibers between the wedge and the anvil.

Bypass uses more of a shearing action, so it cuts cleaner (if the blades are sharp) on live wood, but has a harder time on dead fibers.

If you don't care (e.g. trail clearing) - the anvil pruners will cut everything. If you are pruning ornamentals, you probably also want a pair of bypass loppers.
Read the entire thread and you made many good points.

I want a lopper for trail clearing, mostly willow but some spruce branches. Based on your prior comments, anvil because I don't care about the finished look or damaging the willow, if I could kill the plant (willow) so much the better. You can't kill willow in wet soils, only slow 'em down.

Based on your experience, which require the least cutting effort? I will encounter 100's of 1-2" willows and as you know it can be hard work.

Here's a Corona that's available both bypass and anvil, note the Extendable Handles, for putting in a day pack. Your thoughts?

Thanks
 
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Here's a Corona that's available both bypass and anvil, note the Extendable Handles, for putting in a day pack. Your thoughts?

Those are good for your purpose, and I would be happy to buy and use them. Decent quality and the compound action multiplies the cutting force applied.

The telescoping handles sometimes slip, and will be slightly heavier in your pack, so I would choose the standard handles, all things equal. They are sometimes sold under the Ace Hardware or Sears brand names, so you can also check those places for sales.

Philbert
 
Those are good for your purpose, and I would be happy to buy and use them. Decent quality and the compound action multiplies the cutting force applied.

The telescoping handles sometimes slip, and will be slightly heavier in your pack, so I would choose the standard handles, all things equal. They are sometimes sold under the Ace Hardware or Sears brand names, so you can also check those places for sales.

Philbert
Your comments prove prophetic, I was traveling about 100-mi from home and stopped briefly at a small town Ace Hardware, figured I'd see what they had prior to another 70-mi to a larger town with a HD and WM. Turns out the Ace selection was twice that of HD and WM combined. Many Corona, Fiskars, and Ace (Corona) brand loppers in many sizes and prices.

I ended up ordering these Corona AL 4110 compound loppers. Decidedly low end, no shock stop, plain handle, stamped (not forged) hook and cutter. But should be light with the aluminum handles. I only expect to use them a few times a year so no reason to go high dollar. Put the money saved into a 14" folding saw for the bigger deadfall.

The loppers won't fit inside a day pack but should lash to the outside like ski poles.

Thanks for the advice.
 
My third outing with the Corona compound lopper, it has worked very well. Will cut tiny shoots as well as 1-1/2" Dia. stems.

BeforeAfter1.jpg


I've found that the best way for me to cut the willows is sitting on the ground, that way I can see the stems and I don't have to bend over. You can see nothing but willow to the base of that mountain and the eye candy is much of the reason to make the trip. You can get some scale for the willows in that the lopper is 30" long.

I hear that it is good luck to rep the prophets (?)
Did that, but with almost 3000 credits, don't know why you'd want more? Not like you can eat them. ;)
 
Did that, but with almost 3000 credits, don't know why you'd want more? Not like you can eat them.
'Rep' and 'credits' are different systems. Neither is worth anything more than bragging rights.

Those willows, however, have value to the right persons. During a period of different obsessions, I learned a lot about baidarkas (Aleutian style sea kayaks). Willow is used for the ribs. having that much willow, and of that size, would give a kayak builder a lot of choice to be fussy.

Philbert
 
Another section from the same day. This ~100-feet took 1:40 H:M according to the photo time stamps.

BeforeAfter2.jpg


It's an old road with the trail track in the center of the wheel grooves. Because the willows were so high, I placed all the cuttings in the lower wheel groove.
 

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