low idle while turned sideways

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kyle.kipple

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What does it mean when it idles fine upright but when I lay it on its side idle drops to the point of almost dying. But while In The cut sideways no effect felt. Is this an air leak?? And yes this is with a full tank of fresh 93.
 
What does it mean when it idles fine upright but when I lay it on its side idle drops to the point of almost dying. But while In The cut sideways no effect felt. Is this an air leak?? And yes this is with a full tank of fresh 93.

What saw? Could be crank seal.
Shep
 
could be that the L setting is a little rich letting fuel pool in the crankcase when flipped on its side the fuel gets sucked in.

in the cut the L setting doesn't matter much. It would explain the symptoms
 
could be that the L setting is a little rich letting fuel pool in the crankcase when flipped on its side the fuel gets sucked in.

in the cut the L setting doesn't matter much. It would explain the symptoms
I've experienced those symptoms before - I think your explantion makes sense.
 
It's an 028 super. And if it were the crank seal you say it causes pooling? If that were the case wouldn't it rev higher when flipped instead of dropping and almost stalling. And my l screw is adjusted to where at idle the chain stops.
 
IMHO, turning a saw on its side to test crank seals is over rated.

Perhaps it may not be the be all end all test but if the carb is tuned properly and the seals are tight it should change idle speed very little when position is changed.....the key is knowing that the carb is tuned properly...you can't judge idle tuning by the chain..that needs to be trimmed by the idle adjustment. I do know that every saw I have every had position problems with was cured with a new set of seals. With new seals it would idle perfectly in every position...again there is more to it than just flipping the saw on its side as seals go bad very slowly as a rule and you can tune away from the problem for a while, until you run out of adjustment!!!

But I agree....not having the saw and knowing the state of tune you can't always just scream seals!!!
 
Depends on the barometric pressure of the atmosphere, when the saw was turned on it's side, as well as the color of the protective gear,
but the place to start, as in most saw repairs, is at the beginning, which is a correct and thorough going through of the carb and whole fuel
system, before you start chasing air leak phantoms elsewhere.

At the age of the saw, the carb needs a complete full kit rebuild, done correctly of course, and replacement of the mushy fuel/impulse lines,
the performance also changes when undergoing the "flex" of an old saw with worn out av mounts, and mushy fuel/impulse lines.

If you start chasing the air leak phantoms, without looking at the first things, you will be broke and crazy when you finally get it lined out.

Also, trying to adjust out a running problem will get you a toasted piston!!!!!
 
It's the sideways gremlins. :msp_tongue:

I would be inclined to agree that it's most likely an idle mixture issue........but! That can be caused by more than just a maladjusted low jet. I've found that if the metering diaphragm is a bit stiff it will cause those same symptoms, as will the metering lever being too high, and, and,.................

Do what Fish said. :rock:
 
All av mounts I replaced few months back aswell the tank vent. If the saw runs great in the cut and 4 strokes out of the cut and idles fine while upright is this something I need to stress about??? Or should I replace all my fuel lines and carb kit her?
 
It's easy to sit here and and "give armchair advise" as to what you should or should not do but whithout the saw in hand it's much harder to tell what is what. From what you first said about adjusting the "L" until the chain stopped I would guess you're to rich on the low side and are getting a "pooling" of fuel in the case, which can give you the slower idle. You might try leaning the "L" out just a bit and the using the idle adjustment to bring in down until the chain stops again. Of course it never hurts to go completely through the fuel sytem depending on the age and condition of the saw. But it quite likely that it is just a bit out of adjustment from what you said. On the other hand completely rebuilding everything and adjusting it the same way may well yield the same results.

As I said earlier I have had idle position problems before that were cured with a new set of seals but IMHO there are many more likely things that can cause this situation. If you really want to know the condition of the seals a pressure/vac test is the best way......the check idle in all postitions test is just "field test"....like holding the saw up by the pull cord to test compression...it gives you a rough idea of potential problems but is not a
difinative answer to all questions. I would try and adjust the "L" a bit leaner...if that doesn't solve the problem..clean and kit the carb, paying close attention to the correct adjustment of the fuel meteringl lever. Do it by the book... new filter and line...if you're still not happy...pressure/vac test the motor or just put in a new set of seals. Like Fish said you have to start at the begining to deal with a fuel related issue.
 
Gday , gents ,
Ive an MS310 muffler moded tune tabs removed and retunes , the saw in this state has and is performing very well and is a pleasure to use , for it size and weight its a pleasure to use and impressive
Its just recently started to run on or idle quick at end of a cut and will do so for several seconds then settle to steady desired idle Ive checked all fuel n breather lines and the snorkel carb to barrel any ideas please on this n how to remedy please , Cheres The Red fella
 
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