Maintaining a ported saw

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BKrusher

BKrusher

300 yd drives
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Good point on the clutch and bearing. Any particular brand better than the other? I don't want a Chinese copy just to save a few bucks. I also think a 3/8 setup would be a little better suited to handle the high rpms that my 346 puts out. I've heard .325 is supposedly faster in the cut, but sacrificing a little speed is fine with me if it means a sturdier setup. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
On chain sizes go with what you like. I've found .325 to be faster in the cut on my 261c compared to 3/8. Can't go wrong here though either way IMO. .325 will hold up fine on this size of saw.
 
Homelite410

Homelite410

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On chain sizes go with what you like. I've found .325 to be faster in the cut on my 261c compared to 3/8. Can't go wrong here though either way IMO. .325 will hold up fine on this size of saw.
Exactly. I hate 325 but if that lets your saw stuggle less and makes you more productive then its a win win!
 
BKrusher

BKrusher

300 yd drives
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Exactly. I hate 325 but if that lets your saw stuggle less and makes you more productive then its a win win!
I haven't timed a cut 3/8 vs. .325 with my ported 261c but there is no doubt the .325 setup holds higher rpms. This saw doesn't really struggle with 3/8 just holds lower rpm...the torque on a ported 50 cc saw is enough IMO to handle 3/8 any day. I'm not much of a saw racer though...:)
 
mainewoods

mainewoods

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Seems as though the lowered rpm's from 3/8 would mean the saw would be working harder, thus putting more strain on the motor. Not sure which might be worse - screaming rpm's or straining rpm's.
 
Homelite410

Homelite410

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Seems as though the lowered rpm's from 3/8 would mean the saw would be working harder, thus putting more strain on the motor. Not sure which might be worse - screaming rpm's or straining rpm's.
I run my saws like they are meant to be...... IN THE POWERBAND. I hate seeing guys push a saw to its knees with a dull chain and the blame the saw for lack of power. Even a small homeowner saw will perform good with a sharp chain and keep the rrrrr's up in the right spot.
 
BKrusher

BKrusher

300 yd drives
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I run my saws like they are meant to be...... IN THE POWERBAND. I hate seeing guys push a saw to its knees with a dull chain and the blame the saw for lack of power. Even a small homeowner saw will perform good with a sharp chain and keep the rrrrr's up in the right spot.
Well that's it kinda... different saws have different powerbands. I don't know a 346xp likes to rev up from what I hear... I ran one once. Great saw. Gotta have sharp chains either way, no doubt about that.
 
Philip Wheelock

Philip Wheelock

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...Even a small homeowner saw will perform good with a sharp chain and keep the rrrrr's up in the right spot.
MS261, MS260 & MS440 service manuals specify max hp @ 9500-9600 rpm. Trick is to use a bar/chain combination (typically the one recommended by the manufacturer) that will keep the engine in the power band & sharpen the chain often.
 
Moparmyway

Moparmyway

Its just a saw
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The clutch gets more of a work out on a ported saw more torque, power so a good clean is the go and greese the clutch bearing.
Correct me if I missed something, the clutch bearing is only spinning when the saw is at idle, or if the chain is stuck and the saw wont rev up.
When the engine revvs up, the clutch is forced outward, against the rim, and the sprocket spins at the same RPM as the engine. The faster you spin the engine, the stronger the clutch holds.
Greasing the bearing is a great idea on any clutch, but I think the clutch has an easier time doing its job at higher RPM's
 
nk14zp

nk14zp

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Dump the old gas in your truck! For me anything over 6 weeks!
Heard some good advice! But really besides good synthetic oil, most important thing I've always found in 40 years of running saws is to blow em off with compressed air after you use them, ported or not! And like what was mentioned; when the chain dulls shut the saw off and sharpen chain, switch em, or grab another saw with a sharp chain!!
AND keep it in tune.
 
wap13

wap13

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Long story short I bought into the 3/8 on everything theory recently...tried it out and prefer the .325 for my saw. I can see the reasons for 3/8 and it makes sense. Try em both out see what you think is all I'm saying.


Been thinking of trying 325 on my masterminded 261c but like being able to use one file on all saws. You may be talking me into making the change.
 
treesmith

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I've got a mastermind 261 non cm, it came with 18" .325 .063 full chisel and it cut well and fast in hard aussie wood, it seemed quite lively and could kick a little too much for my liking. Put an 18" .063 3/8 on and it worked well, cut almost as fast, seemed to jam and kick less and shares chain with all the bigger saws, then tried the same but 20". I wouldn't say it struggles with a 20" but there is a difference especially in hard hard wood which is so very common here. I used the 20" in some cypress and it went back to being a light sabre. For me, cutting hard wood, I'll probably go back to the 18" 3/8 .063 but in softer wood than we have here a 20" 3/8 is pretty good
 
BKrusher

BKrusher

300 yd drives
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WI
I've got a mastermind 261 non cm, it came with 18" .325 .063 full chisel and it cut well and fast in hard aussie wood, it seemed quite lively and could kick a little too much for my liking. Put an 18" .063 3/8 on and it worked well, cut almost as fast, seemed to jam and kick less and shares chain with all the bigger saws, then tried the same but 20". I wouldn't say it struggles with a 20" but there is a difference especially in hard hard wood which is so very common here. I used the 20" in some cypress and it went back to being a light sabre. For me, cutting hard wood, I'll probably go back to the 18" 3/8 .063 but in softer wood than we have here a 20" 3/8 is pretty good
I agree .325 will kick back more...3/8 is smoother. I use a 16" bar and cut up red oak almost exclusively for firewood. Limbing, blocking, the whole works up to 24"-26". If staying in 14"-16" hardwood I'd prolly go 3/8 all the time. Now 24" hardwood might seem too much for a 50cc saw but I don't get into that size a lot.
 
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BKrusher

BKrusher

300 yd drives
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
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WI
Been thinking of trying 325 on my masterminded 261c but like being able to use one file on all saws. You may be talking me into making the change.
Well best bet is try the two setups for yourself IMO. Either way its very hard to bog my masterminded 261c other than plugging up the clutch cover with wood chips flush cutting stumps. Changing file sizes isn't a big deal for me though. I don't cut for a living.
 
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BKrusher

BKrusher

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WI
.325 pitch chain works well on my stock ms261 but may not put enough load on your 261c to keep the engine from over-revving. Maybe stick with the .375 for awhile.
Maybe but if your keeping the chain sharp I don't feel like I'm over revving the saw one bit, the sharp chain feeds right in the wood keeping the rpms at a safe level:)
 
mainewoods

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I have not tried 3/8 on my 346. The .325 with a 8T rim is what I have on it now, and it flat out cuts like a demon. Be interesting to hear from everyone which causes more wear - 3/8 or .325. With the increased horsepower and rpm from a ported saw I would think the wear and tear would be sooner, and greater.
 
BKrusher

BKrusher

300 yd drives
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Nov 20, 2013
Messages
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WI
I have not tried 3/8 on my 346. The .325 with a 8T rim is what I have on it now, and it flat out cuts like a demon. Be interesting to hear from everyone which causes more wear - 3/8 or .325. With the increased horsepower and rpm from a ported saw I would think the wear and tear would be sooner, and greater.
Could very well be....but I think you gotta give more credit to the saws and builders that do these woods porting. These aren't race saws and are modified for long term use. I'm just about got my 261c broken in and I'm gonna try 3/8 pitch again...very good points all around IMO. :clap:
 

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