NYH1
Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
As some of you guys know, I'm building a mild 385 stroker motor, 4.040" bore x 3.750" stroke. Some of you guys have been a BIG help. So thank you to everyone for all of your help.
Last week I clearanced my block so I had enough clearance between my rods and the block. Before I did any grinding at all, I could completely rotate the crank with all the rods and pistons moched up. I had no interference at all. However I didn't have the required .060" clearance between the block and a few of the rods. I only had to grind a little bit off the block down by the cylinders (#2, #4, #6 and #8). My crank and rods didn't come close to the oil pan rail at all. There was a ton of clearance there. I'm using a Scat rotating assembly. The crank is pt# 9-350-3750-6000 and the rods are pt# 2-ICR6000 (6 inch rods).
Today my cam and timing chain set came from Summit. The cam is a Lunati Voodoo 262/268 hydraulic flat tappet cam. Spec's are 219/227 dur. .050", .468/.489, LSA 112°. I moched the block up with the crank, rods and pistons along with the cam and timing chain and gears to check the rod/cam clearances. I didn't degree the cam in. I'll do that upon final assembly. I just installed it at zero on the timing gears. I installed one piston/rod set up at a time and checked the clearance between each rod and the cam lobes. I had more then enough clearance. Way more then the required .050". The rods didn't even come close to any of the cam lobes. I was surprised. The rods are stroker rods with cap screw bolts, but I was expecting to have to grind a little off of a few of the rods.
I checked my deck height on every cylinder today too. I checked them at each side of the piston in the same direction as the wrist pin go's to minimize piston rocking, which I didn't eliminate completely. The deck heights were .008" to .012". Again, I had a little piston rocking.
Next I have to file fit a complete cylinder worth of rings, top, middle and oil rings so I can get the rotating assembly balanced. I'm also going to take the cam bearings out so I can completely clean the block again.
Last week I clearanced my block so I had enough clearance between my rods and the block. Before I did any grinding at all, I could completely rotate the crank with all the rods and pistons moched up. I had no interference at all. However I didn't have the required .060" clearance between the block and a few of the rods. I only had to grind a little bit off the block down by the cylinders (#2, #4, #6 and #8). My crank and rods didn't come close to the oil pan rail at all. There was a ton of clearance there. I'm using a Scat rotating assembly. The crank is pt# 9-350-3750-6000 and the rods are pt# 2-ICR6000 (6 inch rods).
Today my cam and timing chain set came from Summit. The cam is a Lunati Voodoo 262/268 hydraulic flat tappet cam. Spec's are 219/227 dur. .050", .468/.489, LSA 112°. I moched the block up with the crank, rods and pistons along with the cam and timing chain and gears to check the rod/cam clearances. I didn't degree the cam in. I'll do that upon final assembly. I just installed it at zero on the timing gears. I installed one piston/rod set up at a time and checked the clearance between each rod and the cam lobes. I had more then enough clearance. Way more then the required .050". The rods didn't even come close to any of the cam lobes. I was surprised. The rods are stroker rods with cap screw bolts, but I was expecting to have to grind a little off of a few of the rods.
I checked my deck height on every cylinder today too. I checked them at each side of the piston in the same direction as the wrist pin go's to minimize piston rocking, which I didn't eliminate completely. The deck heights were .008" to .012". Again, I had a little piston rocking.
Next I have to file fit a complete cylinder worth of rings, top, middle and oil rings so I can get the rotating assembly balanced. I'm also going to take the cam bearings out so I can completely clean the block again.
