Makita EA5000p

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I can see dropping some of that and never finding it. Lol
Do the dolmar 5100 saws have regular screws in the carb? If so is it the same carb without caps? I’d have no problem just buying a new carb so all I needed was a regular screwdriver.
I have a Dolmar 6100 and it has the special screws. If I remember correctly, it's the double d screwdriver. I like the special screws better as long as you have the tool for it. It's a whole lot easier to stay on them than regular slotted screws.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 
I have a Dolmar 6100 and it has the special screws. If I remember correctly, it's the double d screwdriver. I like the special screws better as long as you have the tool for it. It's a whole lot easier to stay on them than regular slotted screws.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
I guess I could order the posted kit and try it. Looks like a lot of parts to lose compared to a regular screwdriver. You guys are raining on my parade. :laugh:
No way to get the caps off or the same carb with regular screws available?
 
I guess I could order the posted kit and try it. Looks like a lot of parts to lose compared to a regular screwdriver. You guys are raining on my parade. [emoji23]
No way to get the caps off or the same carb with regular screws available?
I don't think they are removable caps. They are the actual needle screw heads. I ordered mine on eBay individually. I got the double d, the splined one for poulans and the hex one for Stihl. I have no idea about a new carb to replace it.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 
I don't think they are removable caps. They are the actual needle screw heads. I ordered mine on eBay individually. I got the double d, the splined one for poulans and the hex one for Stihl. I have no idea about a new carb to replace it.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
If it’s a one tool deal I’d be ok with that. That kit makes it look like a combination of several pieces.
 
I guess I could order the posted kit and try it. Looks like a lot of parts to lose compared to a regular screwdriver. You guys are raining on my parade. :laugh:
No way to get the caps off or the same carb with regular screws available?

They are different driver types. Only need one of them for that saw. Mine rides in my weaver rig.

Organization helps you not loose things [emoji16][emoji6]


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
If it’s a one tool deal I’d be ok with that. That kit makes it look like a combination of several pieces.

No

Its just a set screwdrivers with different driver types. They are one pc’s deals like a normal screw driver


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
No

Its just a set screwdrivers with different driver types. They are one pc’s deals like a normal screw driver


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Received it today and thanks. Pretty slick. Now my next question...... after letting the saw sit for a week or two I have to pull the spark plug and drain gas from the cylinder or I can’t crank it. Any ideas? It’s been this way since I got it new.
 
Wait.

Your crank case is filling with fuel when it sits?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
Float stuck is my first guess but if the saw runs ok after you do your “dump fuel out the spark plug hole” thing.....than its not your float.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
Received it today and thanks. Pretty slick. Now my next question...... after letting the saw sit for a week or two I have to pull the spark plug and drain gas from the cylinder or I can’t crank it. Any ideas? It’s been this way since I got it new.
You have a bad carb with a needle/seat issue. You need to pressure test the fuel inlet to the carb. It should hold 7-10 psi indefinitely. The pressure from the tank is passing gas into the saw past the needle.
 
Float stuck is my first guess but if the saw runs ok after you do your “dump fuel out the spark plug hole” thing.....than its not your float.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
It runs good and idles fine after clearing the cylinder. I was thinking float, what else would allow the hydraulic lock?
 
You have a bad carb with a needle/seat issue. You need to pressure test the fuel inlet to the carb. It should hold 7-10 psi indefinitely. The pressure from the tank is passing gas into the saw past the needle.
If I use it every two or three days it’s not an issue. Longer than that , hydraulic lock. I guess I’ll try a new needle and seat. I’ve got lots of cutting to do this winter. I want all the bugs out. Hard starts in the summer. I figured screw settings on that.
 
The 5105's are known to have tank vent issues. They let air in just fine but dont like to vent out pressure. Mine would flood so easily but it never seemed to be as bad as what you are describing with yours. My brothers would act the exact way mine did. We removed the little duck bill tank vent and nipped a corner off and it totally fixed our issue.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top