Makita top handle saw for climbing?

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phourgenres

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I bought the cordless one to try and supplement my echo 355, for smaller stuff. Problem is, this saw's chain keeps jumping off the bar. Is anyone else having this problem with this saw?
 
I have the larger rear handle version, doing a timberframe project with it now.
These saws really benefit from a conversion to a smaller bar and chain setup.
Here's what you need IMO
https://www.baileysonline.com/makita-1-4-sprocket-xcu-chainsaws-6-tooth-mka-1982592.htmlSays 6 tooth but it's really 9 tooth.
I've been using these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383411145491along with stihl 3005 008 3403 10 inch bars, obviously the stihl bars are better.
The bar slots should work fine, but you may have to drill another hole for the adjuster pin, a carbide masonry drill bit (3/16? or so) will drill bar holes way better than a regular bit.
Also You really only get about 10-1/2 useable inches with the 12 inch bar, so maybe a 14 in .043 1/4 pitch would be better for treework.
 
I have the larger rear handle version, doing a timberframe project with it now.
These saws really benefit from a conversion to a smaller bar and chain setup.
Here's what you need IMO
https://www.baileysonline.com/makita-1-4-sprocket-xcu-chainsaws-6-tooth-mka-1982592.htmlSays 6 tooth but it's really 9 tooth.
I've been using these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383411145491along with stihl 3005 008 3403 10 inch bars, obviously the stihl bars are better.
The bar slots should work fine, but you may have to drill another hole for the adjuster pin, a carbide masonry drill bit (3/16? or so) will drill bar holes way better than a regular bit.
Also You really only get about 10-1/2 useable inches with the 12 inch bar, so maybe a 14 in .043 1/4 pitch would be better for treework.
Does the sprocket essentially a cover for the wheel, so the chain cant fall off the wheel?

Mine came stock with a 14" bar. Is the stock bar just crap?
 
Any reason i shouldnt just go down to a oem 12" makita bar and chain. Is that sproket better at holding the chain?
I have the larger rear handle version, doing a timberframe project with it now.
These saws really benefit from a conversion to a smaller bar and chain setup.
Here's what you need IMO
https://www.baileysonline.com/makita-1-4-sprocket-xcu-chainsaws-6-tooth-mka-1982592.htmlSays 6 tooth but it's really 9 tooth.
I've been using these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383411145491along with stihl 3005 008 3403 10 inch bars, obviously the stihl bars are better.
The bar slots should work fine, but you may have to drill another hole for the adjuster pin, a carbide masonry drill bit (3/16? or so) will drill bar holes way better than a regular bit.
Also You really only get about 10-1/2 useable inches with the 12 inch bar, so maybe a 14 in .043 1/4 pitch would be better for treework.
 
I bought the cordless one to try and supplement my echo 355, for smaller stuff. Problem is, this saw's chain keeps jumping off the bar. Is anyone else having this problem with this saw?
On a new saw the chain can be experiencing some break-in and loosening. On a new setup chains will jump bars when they're loose. As the bar and chain heats up it loosens as you probably know. That said, there's also the possibility you have a bent/damaged chain drive link which will definitely cause the chain to jump. Inspect the chain carefully! I suspect you have a tweaked chain from when it jumped the bar from being loose previously.

I'd probably also confirm your tensioner is working correctly and holding proper tension.
 

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