Manual splitter and compressor

[Deb1]

OK, no background laughing about this ? - my thing is cars and boats.

I buy about 3 cords per year and so far have not made the $2k investment in a splitter. I saw a manual splitter that used 2 - 4ft long shafts to pump up the hydralics and drive the splitter.

I have a 2Hp compressor that develops 115 lbs PSI - - - any way to use the compressor with the above splitter or is the PSI just too low? If so, how muc PSI would be required to use this combo?

 

[Treeman587]

Air power is not the same as hydraulic. It would take a great deal more than your compressor can produce. Air compresses, Hydraulics don't

 

[Deb1]

Compressor No-No

OK Treeman, thanks for the ejamacation, guess I'll just stick with my handy maul - it actually does a good job.
"It's a good machine it's the motor that needs some upgrading"

 

[bendtrees]

I am looking to buy a spliter, and Lowes is selling a 27ton 5.5 hp honda model for $1300-$1400. I worry the motor maybe undersized though.

If wood storage isn't an issue, I suggest renting a splitter. My buddy and I aced seven cords in an afternoon with a 20 plus ton rental. I think it was $80 a day.
After years of splitting with a maul, I'll never do more than a few chunks at a time. Shoulders take a long time to heal.
good luck

 

[DGG]

Wow you guys are high tech!

I (and the kids) use a couple of steel wedges and a sledge hammer. If you keep the wedges sharp so they can get an initial bite into the log, it doesn't take much strength or effort to split a log. You don't even have to lift the sledge over your head and swing it. You can just tap it.

Most of what we split is in the 15-24" length range. I don't know how many cords we have split over the years but it is a bunch. We split cherry, poplar, walnut, maple, white pine, etc. We halve the log, then halve the half. Just the right size for the fireplace.

The hardest part is just starting the wedge (if you look at the cross section of the log you will sometimes see a natural split line or groove which is where you want to start the split). Then just tap the wedge in with the sledge. You don't need to act like you are trying to ring the bell at the carnival mallet "who is the strongest" amusement event. It really takes very little effort and the price is right.

The hardest part is getting the stupid log to stand up straight on wet or uneven ground while you tap the wedge in. Good exercise, burns cholesterol/fat, gets you breathing some fresh air (no gas fumes). Easy!

If you have a bunch of wood to split (and a suck...buddy to help you) I would go the rental route like bendtrees suggests. However if time isn't money the wedge/sledge technique will flat give you a bunch of split wood.

 

[046]

speeco and huskee 22 ton splitters go for $900 and will spit most anything you'll throw at it. they've got good feedback holding up too.

OK, no background laughing about this ? - my thing is cars and boats.

I buy about 3 cords per year and so far have not made the $2k investment in a splitter. I saw a manual splitter that used 2 - 4ft long shafts to pump up the hydralics and drive the splitter.

I have a 2Hp compressor that develops 115 lbs PSI - - - any way to use the compressor with the above splitter or is the PSI just too low? If so, how muc PSI would be required to use this combo?

 

[Deb1]

Wot a resource!

Hey guys, thanks for all of the valuable input - I'll check out the options so I'm ready for the next winter.

 

[turnkey4099]

Wow you guys are high tech!

I (and the kids) use a couple of steel wedges and a sledge hammer. If you keep the wedges sharp so they can get an initial bite into the log, it doesn't take much strength or effort to split a log. You don't even have to lift the sledge over your head and swing it. You can just tap it.

Most of what we split is in the 15-24" length range. I don't know how many cords we have split over the years but it is a bunch. We split cherry, poplar, walnut, maple, white pine, etc. We halve the log, then halve the half. Just the right size for the fireplace.

The hardest part is just starting the wedge (if you look at the cross section of the log you will sometimes see a natural split line or groove which is where you want to start the split). Then just tap the wedge in with the sledge. You don't need to act like you are trying to ring the bell at the carnival mallet "who is the strongest" amusement event. It really takes very little effort and the price is right.

The hardest part is getting the stupid log to stand up straight on wet or uneven ground while you tap the wedge in. Good exercise, burns cholesterol/fat, gets you breathing some fresh air (no gas fumes). Easy!

If you have a bunch of wood to split (and a suck...buddy to help you) I would go the rental route like bendtrees suggests. However if time isn't money the wedge/sledge technique will flat give you a bunch of split wood.

Excellent! I have a hydraulic and do around 8-12 cord a year (salvage of a burn). Almost all of that is done maul/wedge as I need the exercise and a few hours/week on the wood pile beat H*** out of paying for a club membership. The only stuff that goes through the splitter are the knot/crotches or when I need to get the PU unloaded in a hurry. No, it does not have to be a physically punishing job. I am 72 and still swinging (easy). Nice day today (68) but I had a tax appointment and dr appointment or I would have been out there grinding the incipient mushrooms off of my manual splitting equipment.

Harry K