Max rpm for a Stihl 290

[KMB]

I got a new-to-me, like new DTi TT-20K tach and I'll be tuning my saws as well as my bro-in-laws 290. Anybody know Stihl's max rpm for the 290?

Kevin

 

[pbuehning]

Per the stihl shop manual 12,500 max rpm. Idle at 2,800.

 

[KMB]

Per the stihl shop manual 12,500 max rpm. Idle at 2,800.

Thank ya! I have a computer copy of the owners manual which gives the idle speed, but no max rpm.

Kevin

 

[secondofangle]

just was tuning my dad's 290 with my new asw tach from Bailey's, and I can't get it to run lower than 14,000 max. Seems like the screw doesn't turn more than about 3/4 turn either way. goes up to 14,500+. Does Stihl do this to make the saw run leaner for the EPA? OR am I doing something wrong? Idles at 2800.....help! that's too fast isn't it???

Thanks, SOA

 

[THALL10326]

just was tuning my dad's 290 with my new asw tach from Bailey's, and I can't get it to run lower than 14,000 max. Seems like the screw doesn't turn more than about 3/4 turn either way. goes up to 14,500+. Does Stihl do this to make the saw run leaner for the EPA? OR am I doing something wrong? Idles at 2800.....help! that's too fast isn't it???

Thanks, SOA

That is hitting the tops pretty hard. Most 290's run fine right at 12,500-13,000. Its common to see many older ones hitting 13,500 and running fine. They have gain some R's after break in and loosening up. At 14,000 I'd slow that thing down to be on the safe side. You need to merely remove the high speed screw limiter cap so you can get those rpms down by screwing out the high speed adjustment. A sheetrock screw works pretty good for grabbing that limiter cap so you can pull it out and get to the adjustment screw behind it.

Note , don't rev that saw no longer than to get a reading, a 15-20 second rev isn't needed or good for the saw. A few second rev is all you need to get your reading.

 

[pbuehning]

And don't forget to re-install the cap when you're done.

 

[THALL10326]

And don't forget to re-install the cap when you're done.

I see that smiley there but thats a important point, glad you caught that, that cap should indeed be put back on to hold the adjustment in place, good eye there,

 

[Lakeside53]

Well... as is "catch Tom out", you really should put in a NEW cap... Hey Tom.. they taught ya that in the bronze school...:greenchainsaw:

 

[THALL10326]

Well... as is "catch Tom out", you really should put in a NEW cap... Hey Tom.. they taught ya that in the bronze school...:greenchainsaw:

LOL, yeah they said sumthing bout that. I figured they just wanted us to order more caps, I thought oh no ya don't, I gotta save my customers money.

Psssst, whats the part # to those things, I need to stock up,LOLOL

 

[ShoerFast]

Well... as is "catch Tom out", you really should put in a NEW cap... Hey Tom.. they taught ya that in the bronze school...:greenchainsaw:

Back in the day, Stihl school said to replace every tension fastener doing warranty work, that they would never deny a claim for all the fasteners to do a job.

That stihl a rule of thumb?

 

[Lakeside53]

Nope never heard of it....

 

[Torquin]

But when you pull the cap won't you damage it beyond reuse? I've never pulled these caps before so I don't know. I do know that I need to richen up a bit since my muffler port job though, and the limiter is keeping me from doing that.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[XJWoody]

Remember that once you have ahold of the cap (with the puller 'tool') you must turn it one way or the other to line up a little tab (the 'limiter') with a slot, then pull it straight off.

I shave those little tabs off before putting the caps back on...

 

[Torquin]

That's a good idea. then I won't have to worry about limiters in the future. I am just worried that I will mess up the cap while pulling it and not be able to reuse it.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Lakeside53]

buy new...50 cents each..