McCulloch 10-10

[a. palmer jr.]

This kind of thing happens to me all the time, even on saws that are not collectible...I tell myself "It would be a nice saw to use and keep the others to collect". I guess that kind of thinking makes even the non-collectible saws collectible.

 

[stipes]

You would be suprised...

How many of the 10 series parts interchange....Robert Mcculloch had his s**t together back then....The 10-10 series they made millions of em...To me,,,great saws,,,wonderfull design...That man was a genius....

 

[MaddBomber]

I was going to post this as a new thread, but decided to try here first.
I grew up watching my father cut wood forever.... he always uses Jonsered, but one of my uncles and cousin always had McCullochs. I have loved those big yellow beasts forever..... just never owned anything but a couple of junk mini macs

Anyway, this morning (yup Easter) I picked up 3 free 10-10s and a mint eager beaver.
One of the 10-10s is a runner(barely), and the other two are complete. One has all black top, others are all yellow.... 2 chain breaks.
I really want to restore atleast one of them... And I am very excited about this project.
Any tips, or things I should look for? Already found NOS airfilters and fuel lines, but could not locate any crank seals.
About to begin the cleaning/inspection process, and will have pics soon.

 

[heimannm]

stipes - In my limited experience, I would say anything below the fuel tank would interchange between most models, I have one 10-10 on the shelf with both left and right hand starters on it as just one example, I took the sheet metal shroud that cove the cylinder from a 10-10 and used it on a 5-10 as another example.

madbomber - if you can get the seals out without too much damage, or even measure the bore they press in to, the shaft diameter, and the approximate thickness of the seal, most any competent bearing supplier will have or can get seals. Most of the older McCulloch saws used standard seal sizes in their construction. Be sure to specify your application to make sure you get the correct seal material/construction.

Failing that, Bob Johnson has most of the parts, followed by Discount Marine and Fayetteville Equipment Repair.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

I have tried the search feature and landed here. Is there a thread on rebuilding a 10 series McCulloch? I think I got the bug this weekend when I disassembled a PM 850 with a bad tank. I plan on putting new rings in it and changing out whatever I am advised I should. I have a late model PM 800 with a bad piston. I was toying with making a PM “825” as the rest of the Pm 800 looks almost new; but the 850 cylinder doesn’t have the necessary reinforcements for me to tap the hole necessary to attach the back plate (which is one of the late model changes I like). I am also toying with building it in the non AV style such as a 10-10 or PM 700 but I am concerned that the hand fatigue may lead to an accident or that mounting the carb closer to the engine will cut the performance. Any thought regarding my madness? Any thought regarding using the crank, seals and bearings out of the late PM 800 as they are a lot fresher than the PM 850’s?
Thanks in advance, Ron

 

[ric5141]

Ron,

I have a 10-10 that I am in the final stages of rebuild. Should be running and cutting in the next day or so when I get the time. I also have a PM 850 that I am starting to acquire parts for. I will probably get the 850 together later this year. Parts for the 850 are really hard to find when it comes to the engine (i.e. pistons rings etc). Some parts like the crank seals should be readily available at a cost.

I am sure that more knowledgeable members will chime in.

 

[rwoods]

Rich, I believe Randy's Chainsaw parts has both piston kits and rings. Pretty pricey in my book - around $70 and $25 respectively.

I don't know what I am doing so I'm looking for a primer on rebuilding a Mac. Simple things like what sealant, if any, do you use on the case and bearings (I see no evidence of a sealant on mine other than the heads of the machine bolts.) Ron

 

[ric5141]

I used permatex motoseal 2 on the crank to cylinder Other then that perty straight forward

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I used permatex motoseal 2 on the crank to cylinder Other then that perty straight forward

This Motoseal, is it super hard when it sets up or can it be removed if need be? I have a gas tank or two that needs the top sealed on it but might need to remove it at some time in the future.

 

[JasonBmac]

Motoseal is designed for engines that are "frequently disassembled".. It's a sealant, and has pretty minor adhesive qualities.

I use Motoseal 1... Grey.... Higher temp rating.

J

 

[rwoods]

Thanks for the advice, guys. Here's another simple question, do I remove the carbon build-up on the piston face or leave it for "extra compression"? If I should remove it, what do I use - carb cleaner or something else?

Ron

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I doubt if carb cleaner would get it very fast. I usually just gently scrape the piston top with something that won't leave big gouges in it. Sometimes that "extra compression" causes pre-ignition because of hot spots on the piston top. I'd remove it rather than leave it on, assuming the engine is apart. If it's not apart, I'd leave it alone.

 

[rwoods]

Thanks again for the advice. The saw ia apart; I just want to get it back together correctly. Ron

 

[carybush]

1010 fuel line sizes

Yes Indeed the 10/10 saw has two different sizes of fuel line depending on the one you have. One is about 5/16 and the other is almost 3/8 they made a aluminum sleeve you had too glue in place to make the smaller line work. Randys engine repair has both sizes of this fuel line. He is on ebay if you do a search you can find him easy.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Yes Indeed the 10/10 saw has two different sizes of fuel line depending on the one you have. One is about 5/16 and the other is almost 3/8 they made a aluminum sleeve you had too glue in place to make the smaller line work. Randys engine repair has both sizes of this fuel line. He is on ebay if you do a search you can find him easy.

do a google search on McCulloch parts tell me who shows up top of the list

 

[heimannm]

Ron, I "wet sand" the tops of pistons with a piece of worn 80 grit emery cloth in the parts washer. It is amazing how nicely it will clean up parts like that. I don't worry about removing too much material, that is such a slow process I think you'd have to spend hours sanding to make any appreciable wear in the aluminim piston.

Bearings and seals on all the 10 Series saws are the same, and same as the 600 Series saws as well (605/610/650 etc.). They changed the part numbers but the parts themselves will interchange. There may be some models where this does not hold true but for the 1-10, 2-10, 3-10, 5-10, 6-10, 7-10, 10-10, Timber Bear, Eager Beaver, 605, 610, 650, and Pro Mac 5700 saws I have worked on they were all the same.

Some of the Pro Mac and Super Pro 10 Series saw did have some special "bearing inserts" that I think were sleeves the needle bearing on the PTO side went in rather than just being held in the aluminum bore of the crankcase. None the less the part numbers for the PTO side match with older 10 Series machines, the flywheel side numbers seem to move around quite a bit but the snap ring has never changes which indicates to me the bearings and seals would be the same as well.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Ron, I "wet sand" the tops of pistons with a piece of worn 80 grit emery cloth in the parts washer. It is amazing how nicely it will clean up parts like that. I don't worry about removing too much material, that is such a slow process I think you'd have to spend hours sanding to make any appreciable wear in the aluminim piston.

Bearings and seals on all the 10 Series saws are the same, and same as the 600 Series saws as well (605/610/650 etc.). They changed the part numbers but the parts themselves will interchange. There may be some models where this does not hold true but for the 1-10, 2-10, 3-10, 5-10, 6-10, 7-10, 10-10, Timber Bear, Eager Beaver, 605, 610, 650, and Pro Mac 5700 saws I have worked on they were all the same.

Some of the Pro Mac and Super Pro 10 Series saw did have some special "bearing inserts" that I think were sleeves the needle bearing on the PTO side went in rather than just being held in the aluminum bore of the crankcase. None the less the part numbers for the PTO side match with older 10 Series machines, the flywheel side numbers seem to move around quite a bit but the snap ring has never changes which indicates to me the bearings and seals would be the same as well.

Mark

Thanks as always for your advice. In addition to CAD, I think I also have CADD (chainsaw attention deficit disorder) as I have become so distracted by reclaiming my donor saws and acquisition of SP125C that I haven't gotten back to this project. Ron

 

[slipknot]

has everyone got there saws back together? I just did a full rebuild on a 10-10s and massaged the ports a little.....I can share a BIG tip on what not to do..

when sealing the gas tank halves together...do not take the cork gasket out and then try to replace it with "seal all".....seal all is way to hard to get off if u screw it up like i did.....instead use a softer fuel proof sealant like motoseal or the like....im still trying to figure out how to get that crap off so i can do it right
:chainsawguy:

 

[slipknot]

If you are new to this rebuilding, I would recommend the MAC 10-10 you mention, A Homelite XL-12/SXL, or a Poulan 306. They are all very similar, pretty easy to work on, and there were tens of thousands produced. Parts are plentiful for all of them, parts are relatively cheap, and they'll still cut firewood quite well. There is NOTHING more rewarding than showing up to cut firewood with a nice classic saw. Someone always shows up with a new MS-whatever xpg with a dull chain on it. The jaws usually drop about 5 seconds after it hits the wood and the new saw can't keep up. My MAC 10-10s is one of my favorites for this trick

Mine too! You have to love the mechanical music them 10-10s make! they sound much bigger than they are....