McCulloch 610 Pro Mac Sealing the Oiler

[B.C.]

I tried reading all the 610 oiler threads I could find but I seem to have a different problem.

Got a 610 real cheap, piston was boogered. Thought it was a cool saw though so I couldn't resist looking around for another with a good P&C so I could rebuild one. (Have a hard time admitting I might have Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder... thought it would be great to have a saw with a bar larger than 20" though since biggest saw I currently have is a Husky 55 w/ a 20" bar.) Anyway got another & swapped parts and all and put a kit on the carb and had one running pretty nice with best parts of the 2. Still needed a bit of adjustment but idled fine and throttled up good too.

Auto oiler wasn't working. Manual pumped fine. Hmmm. (lines & passages all clear in oil pickup & crank body) Figured I'd swap oilers on the runner with the now parts saw. Guess that was a bad idea. Screams lean now. (The original and the swap both.) Looks like there was originally clear silicone on the 4 mount screws. Please tell me I don't have to seal all those threads back up? Not looking forward at all to draining oil, wasting a can of carb cleaner & probably still not getting all the oil out of those threads and trying to gob some motoseal or three bond in there. No one else ever mentioned anything about having to do anything special when swapping the oilers so I'm not really sure what I should do to seal it back up?

Figure I might as well get a new oiler on there, best price I found on ebay was like 28 bucks, but the parts are from 2000? Ouch. That's pretty old for a new part. I've read others found some NOS ones and I'd really like to get a base gasket for it too, again could only find old one on ebay for almost another 20 bucks. Yikes. Really don't want to pay 48 bucks for parts that are almost as old as the ones I'm trying to swap.

So, need some help finding new parts to spend my money on, and totally lost on how exactly I'm supposed to seal it back up when I get a new oiler ready if I'm supposed to do anything special other than just bolt it on.


*Btw if anyone has any questions about the handle or most of the other parts on it short of disassembling the short block I might have some helpful ideas, took just about everything else apart and swapping the handles and triggers was no fun at all. I really like the seafoam deep creep for busting up the carbon around old muffler ports on these old saws. The 610s I had here have interesting design on the muffler port that was all caked in carbon on both of them.

 

[heimannm]

Bob Johnson (607 638 9297) has the gaskets and diaphragms. That is all you should need, the gaskets will provide a seal so there is no need to put any sealer on the threads.

Mark

 

[67L36Driver]

Changeing the oil pickup hose on them is a hoot. Darn near disassemble the whole she bang.

 

[B.C.]

Yeah, I've got like 3 old Homelite 150s that I tried to fix up in to one real nice one. I almost did and it runs great but the oiler plunger must have been worn out! Too bad I didn't know I should have replaced it because I did seals and everything on it. Sat in a box for near to 2 years now. Runs the chain from my old 032 that took a poop and I was happy to get a real nice runner out of one, haven't taken the time to fix the oiler on it yet. Seems like the 610s are pretty similar with the hose being impossible to get to without disassembling most of the saw and removing the tank.

As for the 610, thanks a bunch Mark. I called Bob today and I'm gonna put a list together and get some parts ordered tomorrow. Fingers crossed I don't have to do any special sealing on those screws, guess we'll see when the parts come in and I slap a new gasket and oiler on.

Thought I had a 24" bar for it but I realized today that it's only a 20! So I got 2 20" bars for it but none bigger. Guess maybe I'll see if he's got one of those too. I've seen guys pulling 28" bars no problem on the 610s in videos but Bob said he recommended sticking to a 24" on it.

Will update when I get the parts in. In the meantime if anyone has any further info on the oiler sealing that might be helpful if anyone has ever had to seal one down before, or maybe if not must be my gasket is bad or something. I pressure tested those mount holes. 2 of them, the ones closest to the airbox hold pressure. Looks like maybe something brass down there, check valve maybe, not sure. The other 2 holes furthers from the airbox, the right one I couldn't figure out, the left one causes oil to come out the oil inlet pump hole, so apparently those must be linked. That one right there alone makes me really wonder how the hell it's supposed to seal with at least one of the oiler mount screw holes sharing the oil passage, thus the oil tube/tank/crank since it's all connected on this machine. That's why I don't get how the mount screw holes are supposed to seal if not for the little washers on top to the oiler body and assuming that the gasket seals below the oiler body. That was why I kinda figured those mount screws had to be sealed, but the fact that pretty much no one has mentioned needing to kind of really confuses me. I guess I'll just wait for the new one and see what happens even though I don't really get it and it's bugging me, haha. I wonder if some teflon thread sealant would work if I do need to seal them without having to clean the crap out of the threads.

 

[Huskybill]

I picked up a Montgomery wards TMY (mcculloch 610 clone) there was a MW 610 TMY. My MW runs great. It’s my first Mac in that class.

I have CAD really bad I’m up all night reading about saws. Instead of counting sheep I count saws lol.

 

[B.C.]

Hahha, I'm pretty sure the itch is really been gettin me these last few years too. I've got way more saws than I need now. Way more. And I can't stop tinkering with them and making good ol runners it seems like.

 

[67L36Driver]

Don’t use tygon in the oil tank. Take pity on the next fellow that may have to deal with it. [emoji57]

 

[Huskybill]

Hahha, I'm pretty sure the itch is really been gettin me these last few years too. I've got way more saws than I need now. Way more. And I can't stop tinkering with them and making good ol runners it seems like.

Being retired it’s fun to tinker with chain saws. I got into the smaller husky saws lately. Then other brands like mcculloch, partner, homelite. I found out most of the time the saws need there carbs cleaned, most old saws will run. Watching buckin Billy Ray on you tube the tree cutting using older macs on the job is impressive.
Just don’t pay too much to buy them free is good. One hundred to two hundred isn’t bad for a newer saw. But to flip them don’t put more than there worth into them.

 

[B.C.]

I am starting to also really dislike Tygon and a lot of other cheap lines. I take the time to replace them and less than a year later sometimes they are already becoming hard. I like a lot of the old black lines, they seemed to hold up really well for decades sometimes. Also seem to have a hard time matching up sizes just right. I'd really like to find a place I could buy like 5 ft. of every possible size in a really good quality line but I've never found a good place to do so.

Hear ya on that HuskyBill, rarely do I fix a saw to sell, almost always just end up holding on to them or if I pull the muffler and it's a real bad piston sometimes I just sell it rather than bother with redoing the whole thing, that often revolves around how much I like the overall design though. I tend to really favor simple designs that are easy to work on, although there don't seem to be very many that I truly like a lot and think are great designs for ease of working on but also don't have a lot of air leak prone spots etc. Think I've sold maybe only like 3 or 4 at this point out of 30 or so that I have, haha. I seem to acquire far more than I sell somehow. I do need to get rid of some though. I have some great boxes full of older stihl parts I haven't been able to go through yet and I will probably sell a lot of those. Have some 066 parts and most of an old stihl 08 too that I'll eventually sell.

 

[heimannm]

McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of Buna N tubing from 1/8" I.D. on up. Buna N is quite flexible and is fuel and oil resistant, in fact it is claimed that Buna N will not deteriorate or become brittle when used with petroleum products.

Mark