McCulloch Chain Saws

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What does yours have for numbers on the bottom of the block?

Lee

Well, I'd love to think its a kart motor, but I doubt it...it has 380/440 & 1365 stamped on it...the block is painted yellow so I assume original to the saw.

The lower compression one has just a 380/440.

Maybe someone stuck a longer rod in there?

Bob, thanks for the links.

-Andy
 
Well, I'd love to think its a kart motor, but I doubt it...it has 380/440 & 1365 stamped on it...the block is painted yellow so I assume original to the saw.

The lower compression one has just a 380/440.

Maybe someone stuck a longer rod in there?

Bob, thanks for the links.

-Andy

Well eat more wheeties just wait till you meet a real Kart engine
 
Nikolas PM'd me for compression numbers on the 440's...obviously happy to oblige as I needed to investigate one anyways.

Here is the first:

310874d1377210045-440-comp-003-jpg

View attachment 310874


310875d1377210052-440-comp-004-jpg

View attachment 310875


Pretty average numbers for these old saws, seems like they are always 120-140.


Now the next, "pulls like a 797" one:


310876d1377210160-440-comp-001-jpg

View attachment 310876


310877d1377210167-440-comp-002-jpg

View attachment 310877

Ahhh yes, that does say 200. This saw has no bar oil in it (tank stored dry) it pulls nice and smooth with no plug.


SO am I "lucky" (used loosely as the thing is a bi*ch to pull) or am I missing something?


-Andy


Wow thats pretty stout... I have yet to find a Mac saw with anything over 150 psi but I only have about a dozen saws as I am fairly new to this. I do have a homelite Super XL-925 that has 200 psi on it that is like new and at times it can be a bit tough to pull over but usually isn't all that bad. My 440 has 145 psi on it and just screams. One of my favorite saws to run.
 
PM 700 throttle lock

thanks warped5 for your help.
i couldn't get the throttle lock to hook up no matter how hard i pulled back on the nib on the OPL.
here are some pics of both parts. are they all there? trigger looks o.k. but OPL might have something broken off ? never seen these before.

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thanks
 
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thanks warped5 for your help.
i couldn't get the throttle lock to hook up no matter how hard i pulled back on the nib on the OPL.
here are some pics of both parts. are they all there? trigger looks o.k. but OPL might have something broken off ? never seen these before.

attachment.php


thanks

Yah, looks like a small part essential to the engagement with the trigger has broken off.

Here's a complete one on eBay, but the picture is awful: OEM Mcculloch 94275 Throttle Interlock Lever PM700 PM800 10 10 DE80 PM850 PM8200 | eBay
 
Hey Guys,

I picked up a SP105 a while back that took a hit from something, she needs a new tank among a variety of other parts replaced.

I have a gently used tank from a 125 that has the trigger latch slot on the rear handle that I'm going to (try to) use.

Does anyone either have a latch/spring/trigger to sell, or will the mechanism from another SP series work?

Thoughts?

-Andy
 
yesterday my wifes grandpa gave me a 10 10 auto, can you still get rim sprockets for these, it also needs an air filter are these avalable?
 
cobey - There were at least 14 different models of the 10-10 saw. Good news is all of them used the same clutch drum, some were equipped with spur type sprockets and some were replaceable rim type drums. You need to determine if yours is the large spline or small spline and order the rim sprocket accordingly.

There were also more than 4 different types of air filters used on the 10 Series saws, best bet is to post a photo or start searching e-bay for one the looks right.

Mark
 
What a piece O junk, :msp_smile:
Just send it to me and i will take care of it.
Been wanting one for a long time.

Uncle Lee

Uncle Lee, a good source tells me you already own most of the 7 cube saws East of the Mississippi.

I feel blessed that this one snuck in under your radar.

:cool2:
 
cobey - There were at least 14 different models of the 10-10 saw. Good news is all of them used the same clutch drum, some were equipped with spur type sprockets and some were replaceable rim type drums. You need to determine if yours is the large spline or small spline and order the rim sprocket accordingly.

There were also more than 4 different types of air filters used on the 10 Series saws, best bet is to post a photo or start searching e-bay for one the looks right.

Mark
thanks :) do i need a serial # off the saw or a measurement for the rim... my picture posting ability has
been down since my cd reader died in my computer
 
Was a runner 10 days ago ... then it broke. Don't yet know why and I'm adding it to the project queue ...


I have extra coils and new condensors for the Supers & Original 797's if ya need. One of my favorite saws to break down with the oil/fuel drained PB the flywheel nut odds are they have not been touched since the Nixon admin:laugh: now you inspect the condensor/points oil and build-up will and has grounded those condensors out. Remove points cover bolts and inspect points and the wiring that goes through the housing (that must be protected with the plastic inserts that should be there) clean and re-gap points @ 0.016. I would also pull the handle clean and inspect the kill switch and the rout that the kill wire is fed seen many culprit ground the saw out right at the bend is real sharp on the shroud where it feeds through. These are some of the spark issues I just had a Super no spark went right to the condensor full of gunk and wet installed a new one..fired right up they do go bad. Good luck



-Cascade Saw
 
I have extra coils and new condensors for the Supers & Original 797's if ya need. One of my favorite saws to break down with the oil/fuel drained PB the flywheel nut odds are they have not been touched since the Nixon admin:laugh: now you inspect the condensor/points oil and build-up will and has grounded those condensors out. Remove points cover bolts and inspect points and the wiring that goes through the housing (that must be protected with the plastic inserts that should be there) clean and re-gap points @ 0.016. I would also pull the handle clean and inspect the kill switch and the rout that the kill wire is fed seen many culprit ground the saw out right at the bend is real sharp on the shroud where it feeds through. These are some of the spark issues I just had a Super no spark went right to the condensor full of gunk and wet installed a new one..fired right up they do go bad. Good luck



-Cascade Saw

Thank you, Terry .. I'll keep your offer in mind. Saw has something mechanical/internal go bad. I suspect a ring broke, but won't know for sure until it's torn down.

:cheers:
 
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