McCulloch Chain Saws

[joeymt33]

Ok, those were harsh words.

Great score Mark! Two more BP399 engines?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[struggle]

That is a really great connection you made Mark. I can't imagine the coin that cost though. Ouch


Sent from somewhere

 

[joeymt33]

It's cool to see that first BP399 still bolted to the table when we first ran the engine. That was one sweet sound.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

It still runs too Joey, we fired it up last April when a few guys stopped by on the way to the IA GTG in Chelsea.

I offered to start it up so Mike could hear one run but he thought it better to take a pass on the venture.

Mark

 

[joeymt33]

Why would someone pass on that?!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[emf123]

Wow, very impressive. I love the small stuff like that, memorabilia, etc. But you got Bobs ID badge!!! I'd wear that everywhere I go.
I've wondered what happened to the engineering reference material that they had, like prints and data, or even R&D projects that never took off. That would be soooooo interesting.
Thanks for sharing!!

Eric

 

[backhoelover]

if you every get tried of having that stuff in your way just let me know ill be glad to take it off your hand

 

[roosterhog]

Rooster - There are two basic spline sizes for the rim type sprockets generally referred to as "Small" and "Large". The "Small" is 3/4" diameter (root or small diameter) and the "Large" is 7/8" diameter. McCulloch made the drums for the 10 Series in both Large and Small, all of the drums for the 600 Series saws (same drum dimensions as the 10 Series) with the small spline. You simply need to determine which drum you have (sounds like you have the Large spline) and buy the correct rim sprocket to go with it. Have a look at the attached document.

Super - Some will tell you to pump it up to 5 or 6 PSI and let it hold for 5 minutes, etc....I rarely find I can seal all of the openings well enough to make that work so I resort to a spray bottle with soapy water and check the seals and joints to make sure they are not leaking. Vacuum only needs to be done on the piston ported saws but I don't recommend soapy water or immersion with vacuum, you will just have to come with a better seal. Most pop up compression release devices are either 3/8-24 or 10 mm so it is easy enough to plug them with a short bolt and an o-ring. Get an old inner tube and start making solid gaskets to fit the intake and exhaust on the stuff you work on most, you can usually use a muffler or carburetor with the inner tube and get a very positive seal.

Mark

P.S. Some Stihl models use a "Mini" spline that is smaller than the Small noted above but I have not bothered to measure it. I don't have anything other than an 036 that uses the Mini.

Mark: Finally got a chance to put the ProMac back together after your advice on the oiler and the rim. She oils and runs great now. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without your coaching. Is it my imagination or do the 10-10's over-perform for their displacement? Mine just seems really stout.

 

[heimannm]

Any of the 10 Series saws in good condition will hold their own with similar displacement saws, some times the noise alone makes them feel as though they are over performing.

Mark

 

[briantutt]

I pit a tank of gas through my 10-10 last weekend. I think part of the reason they seem strong is the saw is pretty light for it's displacement. I agree with the sound level, it adds to the effect.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[Nickolas]

Yeah that PM850 Super is sweet. Anything from that entire pile if i had the chance... that would be it. I h ad a line on one one of those super 850 saws awhile back but it didn't pan out. Oh well maybe in the future another will surface...

 

[Stihlsmoking]

Seen these on CL what's a decent price on these?
1-52 and 1-71 looks like early 60's? Thanks

 

[Nickolas]

I've missed out on some damn nice saws on CL because people wont ship. On the other hand though I have got some sweet deals too...

 

[Rocketross57]

Can anyone ID this saw. Just came across this picture lookin up some Jerry Clower. Thought it was kinda cool.

 

[Rocketross57]

Here's the youtube for the stand up to which that saw is referenced if anyone is interested.

 

[joeymt33]

Power Mac 310


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[struggle]

guys I have a super 250 here that I rebuilt the carb on and it ran great. Guy came to pick it up and now it floods. Took carb back apart and see nothing wrong with it at all. It will fire once then nothing after that and appears to flood the plug as it is soaked. It does have a chip installed in it. Now after a couple of pulls it also is pushing fuel out the carb. I'm wondering if the chip is ether bad or a reed is broke of stuck open? thoughts on this? I really just want to see this saw leave.


Sent from somewhere

 

[turtle561]

ditch the chip.i went through this with an 028 with points ignition. the chip ran once then burned up, reverting to a wrong timing/flooding the saw. they do not work on everything, stihls for one.
there were 5 or 6 versions of the original atom chips to cover the various versions of ignition on small engines. just my experience.

 

[heimannm]

I think it was JoeyMT33 that explained about locating the chip away from heat and the magnets on the flywheel, maybe the chip did in fact take a dive. I prefer the point/condenser myself as I can troubleshoot each individual part of the system and (generally speaking) get them to work pretty reliably. On the other hand, Scott Mueller has a 250 with the chip that has been the under 5 In³ champ at Baraboo every year since 2007...until this year.





That said, I am not sure your flooding issue is limited to no ignition. Some spitback out of the carburetor on a reed saw is normal, more as the saw has more hours and wear. The fact that this one spits a lot of fuel after just a few cranks leads me to believe you may have two issues: faulty needle/seat (may just be some junk in there) or wrong metering lever height, and a problem with the reeds not seating.

Checking the carburetor is fairly easy, in fact you can pressure test it without even taking it the saw off if you'd like. It should hold 5 or 6 PSI easily with very slow bleed down, if not then you will have to remove it and go through it again to discover why the needle and seat are not holding. Don't worry if you don't have the tools to pressure test it, just slip the fuel line off and put a long piece of clean fuel line on and blow, if the needle/seat are not holding you should be able to see/hear it leaking through the carburetor.

There is no simple way that I have come up with to check the reeds. You can try blowing some compressed air through the intake flange when you have the carburetor off but that will only blow anything in the reeds down into the crankcase (if there is something there, it will end up in the crankcase no matter what else you do). To service the reeds is pretty involved and requires removing the air box to get to the reed plate, insulator, and gaskets. They are always glued on very well so getting it apart means destroying the old gaskets and insulator, having to find replacements, and getting it all glued back together again to avoid a leak in the future.

Keep us posted on what you find.

Mark

 

[ILikesEmGreen]

View attachment 449219 Can anyone ID this saw. Just came across this picture lookin up some Jerry Clower. Thought it was kinda cool.

That there's a lightweight, McCullah chainsaw...what like Marcell keeps on his pulp wood truck. Cut through any screen door in 2 seconds flat. Must have one helluva chip opening on the clutch cover.

Love me some Jerry Clower!

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk