McCulloch Chain Saws

[fossil]

I picked up a pro Mac 700 but it seems to have low compression. I haven't had time to dig into it, but could it possibly be a bad compression release? You can grab the handle and pick up and it doesn't lift the saw any. I was told it was running when put away but hard to start. I only paid $15 for it, so I'm not out too much.
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Check the decomp. If it's leaking you should be able to hear air coming out the decomp when you pull it over. Check to make sure the decomp is pulled out and not set to start.

Either way, that's a great price. You could always use it for parts.

 

[Ginger15]

No one knows how to remove a sprocket on a 1-62? Or does anyone know someone who does that I can get in touch with? I guess if no one chimes in she'll just sit on a shelf and look pretty.

 

[Whiskers]

If I recall correctly the button on the right hand side is the primer. If the primer internals are still ok all you need to do is pump it a couples times (it squirts some gas down onto the reeds) and then hold the throttle open with one hand and pull it over smoothly. Its easiest to start the right hand start saws over a log. If the saw has a lot of compression, you can bring it up to top dead center before pulling it over, that usually makes it easier. If the primer internals have turned to goo, then just pour some gas down the carb to prime it.

The button on the left will be the chain oiler, not sure if a 440 has an automatic oiler or just a manual one. There isn't much that goes wrong on those saws in my experience. Good luck!

Thanks, that all makes sense. I'll get a chance to mess with it this weekend. Here are a few pics.

 

[BigBlue]

I have the opposite issue from Brandon above. On my recently acquired cheap PM700 the decompression valve doesn't seem to do anything. Pulling the saw over seems the same whether the button is pressed or not. And the button seems sticky when pressed. Saw starts and runs fine, but I'm just wondering if there is an easy way to remove the decomp valve and clean it or inspect it?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[fossil]

I have the opposite issue from Brandon above. On my recently acquired cheap PM700 the decompression valve doesn't seem to do anything. Pulling the saw over seems the same whether the button is pressed or not. And the button seems sticky when pressed. Saw starts and runs fine, but I'm just wondering if there is an easy way to remove the decomp valve and clean it or inspect it?

Thanks,
Rob

If you pull the brake off you should be able to get a 7/16" or 11 mm open end wrench on the decomp nut. It's a very coarse thread so you won't have to turn it much to loosen it. I just tried it on mine and it worked. I think they get clogged up if they're not used.
You'll need to get the carbon and crud off the valve and seat.

 

[heimannm]

Actually the threads on the compression release are fine threads, the only one with a coarse thread is on the PM800 and related saws.

To remove the sprocket from the 1-61 first remove the nut, impact normally works but McCulloch showed how to make a little tool to fit over the bar studs to lock the sprocket in place. Once the nut and any washers are removed you may need to use two screw drivers or small pry bars to work the sprocket off. There is a key in the shaft, make sure it fits very tight. The sprockets for all of the McCulloch gear drive saws are the same, 19/32" bore if I recall correctly. Customchainsawparts on e-bay sells a .404 sprocket.

The 440 has the same automatic oil pump as the 740/790/795/797 CP125, SP105/125, you can see it on top of the oil tank, adjust screw is coming out of the top.

Mark

 

[Griffdog1]

Hi guys,
I picked this up today as a freebie when I was collecting a new dolmar purchase. It has been sitting for a very very long time, but actually turns over really well and I think it is likely to be an OK runner. I am assuming that this is an early 60's model. It has the rubber handle and all black air/oil cover. If anyone had an idea of actual year from their experience I would appreciate it.
It is a solid nose bar or about 18 inches. From what I can work out this was the standard fitment - is that correct? Looking forward to seeing if I can get this baby running.

 

[Ginger15]

To remove the sprocket from the 1-61 first remove the nut, impact normally works but McCulloch showed how to make a little tool to fit over the bar studs to lock the sprocket in place. Once the nut and any washers are removed you may need to use two screw drivers or small pry bars to work the sprocket off. There is a key in the shaft, make sure it fits very tight. The sprockets for all of the McCulloch gear drive saws are the same, 19/32" bore if I recall correctly. Customchainsawparts on e-bay sells a .404 sprocket.

Mark

Thank you, got it off and I will order a 404 sprocket today. Can I use the current hard nose bar with a 404 chain? How would I know how many DL?

 

[heimannm]

Tough call on the .404 chain, the 24" bar uses 77 DL if I recall correctly, but there were many 18-19-20" bars with 64, 65, 66, and 68 DL if I remember them all.

Best bet is to take the saw in and let them wrap the chain around to get an accurate count.


Griff - almost all of the bars of that day were hardnose. Roller nose came along but were not so handy if you buried the tip. Hardnose are also better for dirty work like stumping. What is the model number on the tag? Turn it over and see what is stamped on the bottom of the crankcase. Many saws of that era had the Walbro/McCulloch carburetor that some guys don't like.

Mark

 

[Ginger15]

Thanks. It measures about 18 inches with the chain off but I'll take it in once I get the new sprocket on.
I'll try and get a better photo later. How's it look from what you all can see?

 

[boda65]

Thanks, that all makes sense. I'll get a chance to mess with it this weekend. Here are a few pics.

View attachment 533961

That looks like a nice clean example of a 440. Congrats!

 

[astnmacgto]

Thought I'd throw this out here I'd anybody is interested guy has a lear charger for 200 bucks. I'd buy it but alas I'm poor and I already have one.
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/5852709981.html
@heimannm

 

[Whiskers]

That looks like a nice clean example of a 440. Congrats!

Thanks, not really sure why I bought it. I swore I was going to stop buying old iron, but there it sits waiting for some attention. It's odd to me how much bigger it seems to be than the 250's but they are both 87cc's.

 

[95custmz]

I'll tell ya why you bought it. It's called, CAD. We all suffer from it and there is no known cure.

 

[Whiskers]

No kidding, I also bought 2 John Deere 60v's the same day, they are the same as an echo 602vl. Again, not sure why I own those either. Earlier this year I bought property with a few barns. I guess I'm trying to fill them up.

 

[Griffdog1]

[QUOTE

Griff - almost all of the bars of that day were hardnose. Roller nose came along but were not so handy if you buried the tip. Hardnose are also better for dirty work like stumping. What is the model number on the tag? Turn it over and see what is stamped on the bottom of the crankcase. Many saws of that era had the Walbro/McCulloch carburetor that some guys don't like.

Mark[/QUOTE]

Mark mine has the tillotson carb. model number is A10 9474 62481 - do any of these numbers mean anything in terms of build date? Cheers

 

[rwoods]

I should have had a bunch of MACs at work pictures posted by now but firewood season has gotten off to a bad start for me this year due to other obligations. So I have to get my cutting in vicariously for now. Thank goodness for Heimann's third cousin on his grandmother's brother's side, Buckin Billy Ray Smith.



Ron

 

[rwoods]

Cutting next Saturday is out for me too. so I am pre-loading.





Ron

 

[46 Poulan]

Hey all- Working on a mcculloch 250-What is best route to take with 4 bolts-3 screws to seal off in gas tank--heard holly carb float bowl washers so far. any other good choices. Thanks David---I am really looking foward to getting to cut some wood--My 1st 250.. have a 10-10 that rocks!!!!

 

[ML12]

I have used a flexible fuel proof gasket maker, permatex under the heads and it seems to be holding up well. The downside is it is a bit messy. I would go with the fibre washers and some sealant.