McCulloch Chain Saws

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I finally have success on the carb cover (from Mark) on the Monkey Wards 2.1.The AF bracket was holdiong me up from getting the carb cover on.I had the AF bracket together several times the correct way & the choke just kept flopping around with no tension on it.I went out & got the other choke plate & the washers off a 310 parts saw & found the culprit immediately.The original wave washer was shot - completely flat.I put the other wave washer in & was in business! Then the carb cover went on without a hitch.
The seller said he couldn't get the saw to start,all it needed was a new fuel filter.That was the 2nd saw I got that only needed a fuel filter to get it going.
 

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Which piston/rings did you end up using in that one if you recall?
That's a good question. I used the one you installed for Kevin since it was new and already on the crank. While possibly debatable in some circles, I'm pretty sure most folks would consider it a PM700 thin ring 85239 with an 89732 ring set (which I ordered separately). That said, I do seem to recall seeing reference somewhere during my bag o' snakes research to a thick ring 85239 using 87166 rings. I scratched all that stuff down somewhere. Now you have me curious again. Oh, boy.

I intended to use the 69412 piston with 64390 cast rings that came with the cylinder I got from Bob (to stay 'correct' for the saw), but was lacking the right connecting rod for the transition. Maybe one of these days...
 
Does anyone remember the "Pioneer" or the Stilh 090? Homelite 750 with a "Stinger?" I grew up a Climber. Back in the Day our climbing saws were Poulans.
 
I've got a PM320 that I was certain I'd have to pull the carb for a rebuild.I pulled the fuel line out to examine the fuel filter which I'd replaced in the fall when I dug it out.The fuel line had to break right at the filter,so I clipped it even & reattached the filter & put it back in the tank.The recoil kept skipping,so I took that off to have a look.The pulley was chewed up a bit,but still looked useable.I noticed that one of the pawls was hanging up a bit,so I lubed it & got it freed up.I put it back together & with one prime it fired up & kept running,but I'm not sure if it needs crank seals,or if it has a bad impulse line.It'll run at a high idle for about 15-20 seconds,then come down to a nice idle.I've got the hi & lo needles both set at 1 1/2 turns out.Also,when I go to throttle it up it stays at a high idle for about the same length of time,15-20 sec.,then it comes down to a nice idle.An impulse line should be fairly easy to replace,but a crank seal not so much.
 
Now I have a bit of a dilemma.The PM320,along with a couple of the 310s I have are missing the throttle lock assembly.The IPLs don't even have them listed as a replaceable part<I guess Mac thought the carb covers were going to last forever & therefore wouldn't need to be replaced.Boy,were they ever wrong! I've searched Feebay & couldn't find a thing,same with chainsawr.If anyone has any of these laying around unused I'd gladly buy them from you.
 
Now I have a bit of a dilemma.The PM320,along with a couple of the 310s I have are missing the throttle lock assembly.The IPLs don't even have them listed as a replaceable part<I guess Mac thought the carb covers were going to last forever & therefore wouldn't need to be replaced.Boy,were they ever wrong! I've searched Feebay & couldn't find a thing,same with chainsawr.If anyone has any of these laying around unused I'd gladly buy them from you.
I will look when I get a chance
 
BTW,the throttle lock on the Monkey Wards 2.1 isn't working.The carb cover that was on the saw was curved just a hair & the cover I got from Mark doesn't fit quite right.I can start that saw by holding the throttle trigger by hand while pulling it over.I'll put a different cover on the saw with a choke rod only & utilize the cover with the throttle lock in it on the PM320.
 
I am pretty sure that 85239 is actually a thin ring piston and uses 89732 rings.
I do seem to recall seeing reference somewhere during my bag o' snakes research to a thick ring 85239 using 87166 rings.
It appears to me from his piston pic and ring measurement that Big10 indeed has a thick-ringed 85239 piston. And you got my curiosity flowing again to the extent that I'm revisiting/reviewing the material I loosely compiled during my particular version of Kevin's 7-10 rebuild. Perhaps I can get it organized into a more condensed and useful format for convenient reference when this subject inevitably comes up again. Of all the McCulloch engineering curveballs, it seems like the 70cc family provides the widest variety of actual interchangeable design "nuances", not to mention the associated conversation and discussion.
I finally got a hold of Bob he is a really cool older fellow had the rings and the flywheel bearing for my 7-10A project. Thank you to all that helped.
I hope he sends you the correct rings (and bearing/seal).

As a casual observation (not a criticism), you may want to consider a less aggressive means of blocking the piston for clutch and flywheel removal/installation. Many of us just use a piece of rope instead of a threaded piston stop -- especially a pointed one. I do have a threaded one that has a much gentler rounded end that I do use occasionally. Nylon ones are also available. It would just be a shame to inadvertently poke a hole in your piston after all the work involved with rebuilding the saw.

Also, and since you asked, the transfers in your pics are what seem to be the normal later versions for the windowed 70cc pistons. Some may want to debate that since there were at least three variations of transfers along the way.

Good luck with your project!
 
Agree. Use a vice as your 3rd hand. The springs are a task. Ive done a few. They arent easy. The metal part has to be in the spring and in its place before the spring can be put over its shoe tabs. I used a vice and screwdrivers and hooks and pliers and lots of anything and everything. Might have said a few choice words under my breath. If you need help send it to me ill do it for you.
 

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