I learned the hard way about taking the needlesd out when doing welch plugs.I totally destroyed a hi needle that way.I got lucky & was able to get a new needle from Bob.I now also don't touch the welch plugs anymore.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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It's been run. But very little.
Understand, just don't want no one doing without! Don't know how far away you are but.......
Bob,you're in In.& I'm in N.Y.,a bit of a drive to cut wood,Lol.I have a 29 yr.old son who lives with me,I can certainly put him to work.
Ya that's a bit of a haul! Still if the grub and company was good, I'd consider it! Lol
Ed, I go on a sabbatical and come back and your all banged up. What happened? You know the PO has those prepaid boxes that take up to 70 pounds. Just ask and we can start sending you wood from all over the world. You can do a study of which burns best?
Metering lever, barely touches straight edge. I tried pushing it down without luck So I tried the double gasket and so far so good.
Back about 10 yrs.ago,my son had a bunch of his buddies come over to help split about 25 cord we had piled up on the front lawn.I fed 'em good & they brought their own beverages.To this day they still talk about it.Unfortunately most of 'em got married & now have families,so they have priorities.The company ain't bad & the grub is always good!
Breckinridge - the welch plugs/freeze plugs in the cylinder can and do leak at times, but they are not subject to extreme pressure or temperatures. I found the epoxy plugs in a BP-1 that I rebuilt actually fell out, so I replaced them with JB Weld.
I had a similar experience with a 101 kart engine I put in a saw (loose welch plugs) and again used JB Weld to make sure they stay sealed. I hadn't been able to get that saw to run properly for several years (carburetion issues) and had some young guys take it home with them in April to see what they could come up with. I ran that saw on Saturday and took first place in the hot saw competition in Baraboo WI.
FWIW, the MAC40 kart engine listed below is probably 20% JB Weld for the block...it has had a few catastrophic failures but with the aid of modern adhesives it keeps going. Same young men that got the 101 going did a fine job on the 40 as well.
Regarding the crack in the tank mount (the fuel tank/intake bolts up there) should not be a problem. Use a large flat file to make sure the entire surface is flat and smooth and use a bit of fuel resistant sealer like Dirko HT or even Plio Bond on the block side of the gasket and you should be good to go.
Mark
I had a similar experience with a 101 kart engine I put in a saw (loose welch plugs) and again used JB Weld to make sure they stay sealed. I hadn't been able to get that saw to run properly for several years (carburetion issues) and had some young guys take it home with them in April to see what they could come up with. I ran that saw on Saturday and took first place in the hot saw competition in Baraboo WI.
FWIW, the MAC40 kart engine listed below is probably 20% JB Weld for the block...it has had a few catastrophic failures but with the aid of modern adhesives it keeps going. Same young men that got the 101 going did a fine job on the 40 as well.
Regarding the crack in the tank mount (the fuel tank/intake bolts up there) should not be a problem. Use a large flat file to make sure the entire surface is flat and smooth and use a bit of fuel resistant sealer like Dirko HT or even Plio Bond on the block side of the gasket and you should be good to go.
Mark
Huge help as always, Mark. Thank you.
That's some major surgery.
The old Mc40 without a pipe did manage to out run some bigger saws without pipes.
This it how it looked when I first put it together 10 years ago.
Mark
This it how it looked when I first put it together 10 years ago.
Mark
Mark, what's your painting process?
I have not done a lot of painting. Typically it is sand/bead blast, prime, and paint with a spray can. Ideally I can cure them in the attic or next to the wood stove for a day or two.
Rustoleum Subburst yellow is a decent match for the later PM models but the earlier brighter yellow is more difficult to match. Some John Deere yellow or Industrial Safety yellow are pretty close, I've even done light coats of one over another to try and match the OEM shades.
For the black I like to use Rustoleum fine texture black, I think the number is 7220. I have tried to use a motorcycle crinkle black a but it is too unpredictable.
Mark
Rustoleum Subburst yellow is a decent match for the later PM models but the earlier brighter yellow is more difficult to match. Some John Deere yellow or Industrial Safety yellow are pretty close, I've even done light coats of one over another to try and match the OEM shades.
For the black I like to use Rustoleum fine texture black, I think the number is 7220. I have tried to use a motorcycle crinkle black a but it is too unpredictable.
Mark
You know I read all this information on the net about how magnesium is so hard to paint, requires special primers, etc. Then I see all these forum posts of people just happily rattle canning their saws and they turn out great.
I have a can of yellow Farm Implement paint that is supposed to match John Deere Yellow. I think I will try that. Thanks.
I have a can of yellow Farm Implement paint that is supposed to match John Deere Yellow. I think I will try that. Thanks.
Thats how it all started with everyone. Ya gotta just try and see what happens. Been away a bit from the site. Still working on the old pickup truck and checking in now and again. Ive nearly got it happy for me. That is completely functioning properly. So what i have is a 1950 chevy 3/4 ton pickup. A model 3600. Ive test driven it a few times but no major daily drives yet. I still need a fuel float and headlight and windsheild wipers. New tires would be nice also. But its coming along nicely. Looking forward to hauling a few macs around to the woodlot. 
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