McCulloch Chain Saws

[powerman330]

would anyone be able to let me know what a MAC 3 10e is worth? The saw still has the battery pac.

Thanks!

 

[watsonr]

will the bar from a 1-70 fit a 125? checked Acres site and it didn't list the bar mount pattern.

Thanks

 

[cpr]

yes

 

[watsonr]

thank you, i thought so, just wanted confirmation.

 

[XPLRN]

3-10 and 10-10A Info Quest.....since the 'search' feature is not fun-ctioning........

Since the search feature is not fun-ctioning I am seeking some info on a couple of McCulloch saws.

I have a 10-10A that I know nothing about.......except that the compression seems low when using the pull starter and that the air filter definitely needs replaced. Is there a preferred place to access parts for vintage McCulloch saws?? What is the reputation/past history usage of the 10-10??

Also looking at picking up an original owner McCulloch 3-10 saw that seems to be in great shape. Just wondering what the story is on these saws.......home usage I'm presuming.......what kind of longevity and ??? I've already accessed this info;

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/b378730d13e6c07088256b610019a258?OpenDocument

Anything info/parts sources/historic reputation that can be provided would be appreciated!! Thanks in advance!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Since the search feature is not fun-ctioning I am seeking some info on a couple of McCulloch saws.

I have a 10-10A that I know nothing about.......except that the compression seems low when using the pull starter and that the air filter definitely needs replaced. Is there a preferred place to access parts for vintage McCulloch saws?? What is the reputation/past history usage of the 10-10??

Also looking at picking up an original owner McCulloch 3-10 saw that seems to be in great shape. Just wondering what the story is on these saws.......home usage I'm presuming.......what kind of longevity and ??? I've already accessed this info;

Model Profile: 3-10

Anything info/parts sources/historic reputation that can be provided would be appreciated!! Thanks in advance!

As far as 10-10 parts go, it might be better to pick up a parts saw, much cheaper than buying the parts you need separately. Just make sure it has the parts you need. Plenty of them on ebay from time to time.

 

[XPLRN]

10-10 parts.......

As far as 10-10 parts go, it might be better to pick up a parts saw, much cheaper than buying the parts you need separately. Just make sure it has the parts you need. Plenty of them on ebay from time to time.

Thanks! Definitely good advice for hard parts. I'm wanting to put a new air filter in before I attempt to start it.......just need to source one of those to start with, thanks!

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Hey guys, Randy sent me over here. I just got my first 5 cube McCulloch
Well the guy said it ran and everything, But seems like there is a part missing on the recoil cover. The guy said "Well i just wind it up like the old 2 man saws" Came with a 25" bar with a brand new chain.
Also what size rope should I use for it? I tried using regular chainsaw rope but it binds up in there and It'll jerk on me when i try to start it. This saw has alot of compression as well :wink2:

So my questions are, What is this part called missing? And where can i get one? And also what size rope for the pull rope, much thanks in advanced!
View attachment 186315View attachment 186317View attachment 186318View attachment 186319

Pictures!
P.S That last picture is what my Girlfriend thought about my new saw! LOL

 

[belgian]

I was finally able to take a few days off and collected some oldie Macs to work on (PM800, 1-43 and 1-61). Pics will follow when I am done, LOL.

Something struck my attention looking at the specs at Mike Acres site....reed valves with thrid port induction system and said to myself...what the heck is the third port induction system ????

Who can explain a bit more ?

thanks

 

[rwoods]

Hey guys, Randy sent me over here. I just got my first 5 cube McCulloch
Well the guy said it ran and everything, But seems like there is a part missing on the recoil cover. The guy said "Well i just wind it up like the old 2 man saws" Came with a 25" bar with a brand new chain.
Also what size rope should I use for it? I tried using regular chainsaw rope but it binds up in there and It'll jerk on me when i try to start it. This saw has alot of compression as well :wink2:

So my questions are, What is this part called missing? And where can i get one? And also what size rope for the pull rope, much thanks in advanced!
View attachment 186315View attachment 186317View attachment 186318View attachment 186319

Pictures!
P.S That last picture is what my Girlfriend thought about my new saw! LOL

I don't know what model you have; if it will fit, this is probably your cheapst route short of a gift. McCulloch Chainsaw recoil 1-41 1-43 1-46 1-51 250 300 | eBay Ron

 

[Eccentric]

Hey guys, Randy sent me over here. I just got my first 5 cube McCulloch
Well the guy said it ran and everything, But seems like there is a part missing on the recoil cover. The guy said "Well i just wind it up like the old 2 man saws" Came with a 25" bar with a brand new chain.
Also what size rope should I use for it? I tried using regular chainsaw rope but it binds up in there and It'll jerk on me when i try to start it. This saw has alot of compression as well :wink2:

So my questions are, What is this part called missing? And where can i get one? And also what size rope for the pull rope, much thanks in advanced!

Pictures!

P.S That last picture is what my Girlfriend thought about my new saw! LOL

Looks like you have a McCulloch 250. It's in good shape by the looks of it too. I just completely parted one of those out because a fellow here wanted the cylinder and stuffer. It was the DIRTIEST saw I've ever took apart. The flywheel cover and all the fins were completely packed with dirt/sawdust/oil mung. Must've been five pounds of the stuff. You'd think that this'd make the saw overhead and sieze. It would have with lesser saws...........but the Piston/Cylinder/Rings were in fantastic shape. The part you're missing is: Cover, Starter #60047.

I use #4.5 starter rope on my big saws. That's 9/64". You could get by on a 250 with #4 (1/8") if that's all you have local. Just make sure it's starter rope, and not hardware store cord. Send me a PM with your email addy in it if you need the IPL for that saw.

Do you have the recoil spring? That's between the pully and the rest of the starter housing. I have a McCulloch starter handle I'd trade you for that Homelite handle if you want. My C5 needs a correct handle, and that Homelite handle doesn't look right on yer 250. I like the last pic by the way. Funny stuff.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Boy, it's sure been quiet over here for the past couple of days.....


I tried kick starting you guys with some Mac pics the other morning, but now I gotta do something about it....

Get it together guys and start flapping those gums!


Chris

 

[rwoods]

PM8200 ?s

1st question: In my quest to get the PM8200 to restart after it gets hot, I took some AS advice and leaned up the low side (it was about 1.5 turns out). This really kicked up the idle speed so I lowered the idle stop. I shut her down and it wouldn't restart, the saw was barely warm although outside temp was pretty high for us. It had spark so after a lot of fooling with it I got it started again. I put it full length in some oak (28" hard nose bar) - noticed two things low side has no effect whatsoever on running WOT and high side had almost 1/2 turn that had no real effect on saw. I took it to the lean side and then added almost a 1/4 turn towards fat. I have too many saws to remember if I rebuilt the carb in this one or not - do you think a rebuild is called for?

2nd question: Generally is a compression reading higher cold or hot? This saw measures around 150 cold but only 100 to 110 hot.

I gave this saw to my brother but haven't delivered it and won't until I have it running right.

Thanks for your help. Ron

 

[promac850]

1st question: In my quest to get the PM8200 to restart after it gets hot, I took some AS advice and leaned up the low side (it was about 1.5 turns out). This really kicked up the idle speed so I lowered the idle stop. I shut her down and it wouldn't restart, the saw was barely warm although outside temp was pretty high for us. It had spark so after a lot of fooling with it I got it started again. I put it full length in some oak (28" hard nose bar) - noticed two things low side has no effect whatsoever on running WOT and high side had almost 1/2 turn that had no real effect on saw. I took it to the lean side and then added almost a 1/4 turn towards fat. I have too many saws to remember if I rebuilt the carb in this one or not - do you think a rebuild is called for?

2nd question: Generally is a compression reading higher cold or hot? This saw measures around 150 cold but only 100 to 110 hot.

I gave this saw to my brother but haven't delivered it and won't until I have it running right.

Thanks for your help. Ron

From personal experience, compression should be higher when the engine is hot...

For example, the 850 I run, I can start it cold on the ground without the decomp. (only have done that accidentally)

Hot, forget it. Comp is so good that it probably would break the starter rope, or worse.

The 610 can be dropped started hot. It cranks right over and starts up with that distinctive McCulloch idle.

Did you tweak the idle screw at all? I found my 610 didn't want to stay running because it needed carby adjustments for the mix I run, (32:1) and also needed the idle screw turned in more since it had worked out from vibrations, closing up the throttle plate to the point where it wouldn't idle. I gotta put some thread locker on that screw, as well as the one on the trimmer.

If it really picked up in idle, you may have the low too lean. It should be set so you can tilt the saw on its left<--(if equipped with a full wrap) and/or right side without stalling, and give real crisp throttle response. I tuned mine just a hair lean of the border of the saw's stalling point when turned on it's side. I did this with the side that hates being tilted toward. (clutch side on the 610, IIRC)

It cured that hot start problem, as well as the problematic idle situation.

Hope I helped.

 

[RandyMac]

It is an impulse problem, give in, have a beer.

 

[rwoods]

It is an impulse problem, give in, have a beer.

Randy, I understand the beer. I don't give in. And I'm not smart enough to know whether the impulse problem relates to the saw or me. If it is the saw, then please elaborate. Thanks, Ron

 

[RandyMac]

Randy, I understand the beer. I don't give in. And I'm not smart enough to know whether the impulse problem relates to the saw or me. If it is the saw, then please elaborate. Thanks, Ron

Follow an impulse for a beer.
Try a know working carb, I'm betting something is plugged.

You are putting us on right?

 

[rwoods]

Follow an impulse for a beer.
Try a know working carb, I'm betting something is plugged.

You are putting us on right?

Randy, I just needed clarificaton as my brain is all muddled up at the moment (my Mother died yesterday). I first thought you were referring to the pulse line and suggesting that I give up on it and have a beer. Then I thought you were saying what you meant. Then I thought maybe you were referring to shopboy. :msp_confused: Finally decided that I don't know what you're talking about but I ain't giving up on fixing this saw.

I'll replace the carb as you suggested and go from there. The compression question interest me because the saw runs good once you start it - just don't shut it off.

To answer your question I've never had an impulse for a beer... from the aroma I have always assumed that it is an acquired taste.

Thanks, Ron

 

[RandyMac]

My sincere condolences.

 

[rwoods]

Thanks. She was a great mother. Kept five sons and Pop in line and well fed. Ron