McCulloch Chain Saws

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As many of you know i lurk and read much more than i post or share due to lack of as much experience with macs as some here, but i have a question that i have been wondering for a while and maybe it can be answered:

Can a 1-51 or a 250 with manual oilier stock i believe be converted to an automatic oilier with a manual oilier over ride helper button or straight auto oilier?

Cody McM
 
Yes or no, depends on how your parts were made.

The automatic oil pump for those types of saws were in the fuel tank and operated off crank case pulse pressure; if your existing tank has all the ports and machining, all you need to do is remove the cover and install the pump components.

If not, you would have to replace the fuel tank and stuffer.

Mark
 
Yes or no, depends on how your parts were made.

The automatic oil pump for those types of saws were in the fuel tank and operated off crank case pulse pressure; if your existing tank has all the ports and machining, all you need to do is remove the cover and install the pump components.

If not, you would have to replace the fuel tank and stuffer.

Mark

Thanks for clearing that up i was wondering how that would work. I'm not going to re tear them down to see if it would work since they are only used seldom but maybe on the next mac of that size i pick up.

Cody McM
 
Next question is :

Why does the gas in the 250 like to get so hot it boils n the pressurize.
Is the fuel cap that is on not allowing it to breath properly?
Mine is the cap that has the small bronzed screened filament hole.
I have cleaned it with pressurized air but it still does it and i don't
know how to get it apart if it does come apart.
View attachment 240734View attachment 240735

Cody MCM
 
As many of you know i lurk and read much more than i post or share due to lack of as much experience with macs as some here, but i have a question that i have been wondering for a while and maybe it can be answered:

Can a 1-51 or a 250 with manual oilier stock i believe be converted to an automatic oilier with a manual oilier over ride helper button or straight auto oilier?

Cody McM

Yes or no, depends on how your parts were made.

The automatic oil pump for those types of saws were in the fuel tank and operated off crank case pulse pressure; if your existing tank has all the ports and machining, all you need to do is remove the cover and install the pump components.

If not, you would have to replace the fuel tank and stuffer.

Mark

Yep. Some of the manual-only versions these saws don't have a fuel tank with the right ports machined into them at all. Others have them, but there's a blockoff plate in place of the auto oiler pump within the fuel tank. I had a 250 with the blockoff plate (so it could be fitted with an auto oiler pump) and a 200 that did not have the ports (so the fuel tank would have to be replaced with one that does have the ports. You can see the blockoff plate inside the tank (if it's there) by looking through the filler hole. It's about 1/8" thick and bare alluminum. Held against the back wall (closest to the engine) of the fuel tank by screws.

Next question is :

Why does the gas in the 250 like to get so hot it boils n the pressurize.
Is the fuel cap that is on not allowing it to breath properly?
Mine is the cap that has the small bronzed screened filament hole.
I have cleaned it with pressurized air but it still does it and i don't
know how to get it apart if it does come apart.
View attachment 240734View attachment 240735

Cody MCM

Fuel in these saws (and others where the fuel tank is metal and is in direct contact with the crankcase) just plain boils sometimes. You can lessen it by keeping the inside of the flywheel cover, the engine's cooling fins, and the drivecase (under the clutch cover.........around the clutch) clear of scum buildup. This helps the engine get rid of heat. Also, a cap with a functioning 'duckbil' valve will help keep pressure in the tank (which will raise the boiling temp of the fuel..........just as the pressure cap on your car's fuel system raises the boiling temp of the coolant). The duckbill valve is a one-way rubber valve under that sintered bronse filter in the cap. It lets air IN (to replace the fuel that's being drawn out..........otherwise a vacuum would form......starving the engine of fuel), but doesn't let pressure (or fuel) out of the cap. These duckbill valves have often turned to goo. If the saw pees gas out of the bronze filter in the cap when you tip the saw, then the duckbill ain't working.

For the most part, don't worry about the fuel boiling a bit. It just happens. If it's spraying out/through the cap then you have an issue. Make sure the engine and such is clear of buildup to help with cooling. If you want to take the cap apart (to inspect the duckbill) you need to carefully pry the bronze filter out. You can push it out through the hole in the underside of the cap with a small screwdriver, but that may damage the duckbill. If the duckbill is turned to goo (you should see it in that hole on the underside of the cap) then you might as well push the filter out through the bottom. New duckbills are hard to find (for this application). Bob Johnson or Discount Marine may have 'em still. Randy Duncan had some on feebay a while ago, but his listing ended. You may be able to retrofit the smaller Homelite or Poulan duckbills (which both are still available new) to the Mac cap. I have a Mac cap that somebody retrofitted with a Poulan duckbil. It's still functional. I need to take a closer look to see how they did it. It looks like they used a short length of fuel line as a spacer around the very tiny Poulan duckbill in that large Mac cap hole. I need to put some pics up here.....
 
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mystery mac photos

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I suspect the first set of numbers are, in fact, 1-86 but can be hard to read. That would indeed make it a 1-86 which is 99cc. The 1-86 is a gear drive saw and might not be the best choice out there for milling.

The same engine was used in the 1-76, direct drive saw and it is possible that someone converted it from gear to direct drive. I have one or two of the 55/S55/S55A saws at home that have been converted from gear to direct drive.

Photo's please, let's see what you have there.

As regards to milling, the 1-76/1-86 may not be the best choice as neither model has an automatic oiler in the stock form.

Mark
 
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1-76 direct drive. 99cc. Nice saw to start with.:msp_thumbup:

Missing the recoil cover and the cylinder hood.
 
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Mystery Saw

Andrew, Looks like you've got a direct drive saw. No auto oiler, so it could be a 740, 790, or 1-7X??? pull the muffler off and check out the bore diameter, that will narrow it down some. I'm sure you know about Mike Acres Site, he has svintage saw specs. and quite a few photo's that can help you I.D. your saw. Looks like it could be a runner. You might want to keep to a more modern saw for milling. Big pulls thru a log puts a lot of stress (heat) on the motor and drive train. Newer saw= replacement parts. Old saw= broken and not repairable. Just my $.02.....
 
Andrew, Looks like you've got a direct drive saw. No auto oiler, so it could be a 740, 790, or 1-7X??? pull the muffler off and check out the bore diameter, that will narrow it down some. I'm sure you know about Mike Acres Site, he has svintage saw specs. and quite a few photo's that can help you I.D. your saw. Looks like it could be a runner. You might want to keep to a more modern saw for milling. Big pulls thru a log puts a lot of stress (heat) on the motor and drive train. Newer saw= replacement parts. Old saw= broken and not repairable. Just my $.02.....

Brad my 740 and 790 Macs have auto oiler pumps. I believe the last direct drive saws of this series to not have the auto oiler pump on top of the oil tank would have been the 1-76's.
 
Aaron

Hmmmm. My 740 no auto oiler. And the other big Mac I have is a 795, has auto oiling. Ya know these oldies had a few "repairs " in their lifetime. Anyhoo looks like Andrew has a 6 cube Mac to play with.:rock: Good to hear from ya.
 
Hmmmm. My 740 no auto oiler. And the other big Mac I have is a 795, has auto oiling. Ya know these oldies had a few "repairs " in their lifetime. Anyhoo looks like Andrew has a 6 cube Mac to play with.:rock: Good to hear from ya.

Your 740 probably had a replacement oil tank. The Acres listing is incorrect for the 740 (and other saws). The 740 IPL shows the auto pump. My 740 (and Mark H's) has the pump too. You're right in that these saws have had many parts swaps over the decades. My 740 now has a 103cc engine from a McCulloch W1 Welder. Looks like the swap happened long ago. The welder engines have larger fins on the head (that interfere with the hood on the chainsaws), and the backwoods mechanic who did the swap just bent the offending fins over a bit on my engine to clear (rather than trimming them)....
 
Hey Frazier, have ya run your one-60 in wood yet?? looks like your a busy guy, last couple of weeks anyways.

ya busy all the time. it's a vice.:laugh: the 1-63 i have not ran yet but it's a clean low hour saw . many saws a head of that one. but that can change at any moment.
 
Your 740 probably had a replacement oil tank. The Acres listing is incorrect for the 740 (and other saws). The 740 IPL shows the auto pump. My 740 (and Mark H's) has the pump too. You're right in that these saws have had many parts swaps over the decades. My 740 now has a 103cc engine from a McCulloch W1 Welder. Looks like the swap happened long ago. The welder engines have larger fins on the head (that interfere with the hood on the chainsaws), and the backwoods mechanic who did the swap just bent the offending fins over a bit on my engine to clear (rather than trimming them)....

Arrrgh, probably could be fixed to look right? Right? At least you got a few more CC's. My 740 came from a faller from Idaho, he passed and the wife sold it on the net, no telling what they did to get a work saw to work on a certain monday. It's pretty much a shelf queen now cause the 795 kicks aZZ in comparison. DS.
 
ya busy all the time. it's a vice.:laugh: the 1-63 i have not ran yet but it's a clean low hour saw . many saws a head of that one. but that can change at any moment.

Winter is over lotsa projects to get to...Butt I ran my one-60 the other day, what a hoot. It's kinda slow, lotsa vibes, but it sure makes a pile of chips with 1/2" CHAIN!! I'm thinking it's time the have a gear-drive saturday pretty soon. My neighbor has some big butt-cuts that need to be blocked up, perfect for gear-drive bucking.
 
Arrrgh, probably could be fixed to look right? Right? At least you got a few more CC's. My 740 came from a faller from Idaho, he passed and the wife sold it on the net, no telling what they did to get a work saw to work on a certain monday. It's pretty much a shelf queen now cause the 795 kicks aZZ in comparison. DS.

Yep. It's not even visible unless you flip down the hood and look at the lower fins. I'll carefully straighten and trim them like the other guy should have done. It's a STRONG saw. Has more compression and power than my 790.
 
Large Frame McCulloch Bar Plate and Bar Mount Pattern Issues Part-1

While switching bars on my 650 gear drive a while ago, I discovered some issues with large frame McCulloch bar oiler holes/slots and bar plates that I've never seen discussed. Mark H and the other McWizards probably knew it all already, but I sure didn't. It all boils down to putting your inner bar plate against your bar to make SURE the oil holes and passages line up. There are some cases (with certain bar tail and bar plate combinations) where things won't line up, and the chain will get no oil.

McCulloch (and Oregon) used/produced two different styles of bar plates for the large frame McCulloch saws (from the D-30 forward, as I understand it). At least three different bar tail oiler hole/slot designs for these saws were manufactured for use on these saws over the decades. Use certain early large frame McCulloch bars on a saw equipped with the later style inner bar plates (with two large symmetrical slots), and your chain gets NO oil.

Use a late style bar that looks like an enlarged 10-series bar mount, (no oiler holes, other than the elongated adjuster holes that also feed oil to the rails) with certain early style McCulloch and Oregon bar plates, and your chain also will get no oil. First I'll cover the bar plates, then I'll cover the bar tail oiler hole/slot placement differences and the problems that arise when the wrong combination is used.


The late style bar plate looks like an enlarged 10-series bar plate. Inner and outer plates are identical, with two large slots equally spaced, close to the centerline. The early style inner bar plates are not symmetrical. The early style plates have an inner and an outer (that can't be switched). The lower adjuster pin slot is large (and in the same location as the lower slot on the late plates), while the upper (oil) slot is thin, but farther from centerline and moved forward in comparison to the lower slot.

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Late style inner bar plate on the left. Early style McCulloch inner bar plate on the right. Notice the narrower, higher placed oiler slot on the early plate. You can also see that the early plate oiler slot lines up with the outer hole on the bar tail of this early style bar. The late style plate oiler slot lines up with the inner, adjustment pin hole in this bar (and NOT the oiler hole).

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Here's the late style plate on the left, with the early style Oregon plate on the right. The oiler slot size and placement differences are easy to see here.

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This is an early McCulloch inner plate placed over a late style plate. Notice that the adjuster slots line up, while the oiler slots do not.


The oiler well cast into the bar mount pad on the large frame McCulloch chainsaws didn't substantially change over the years. It is large, and accomidates both the early and late style inner bar plates. A fellow can run a saw witout an inner bar plate and it'll oil all the various large frame Mac bar styles.

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Here's the bar pad, showing the oiler well. This happens to be a front tank Mac (a 550), but the pad/well design is basically the same for the top tank Mac large frame saws as well.


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Here's a pic of the early style McCulloch bar plate on this saw.

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Here's an early style Oregon bar plate on the same saw. The profile of the Oregon plate differs from the Mac plate, but the oiler slot placement is roughly the same.


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Here's the late style McCulloch bar plate on the saw. It's basically an enlarged 10-series bar plate.


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This is the back side of the clutch cover for this saw. You can see that the area above the bar stud section is large and flat. This allows the cover to seal off the oiler slot on the 'off side' of the bars (and on the outer bar plates), no matter which style they are. This clutch cover has the style of bar tensioner that was used for most of the large frame Macs of the 1960's and 1970's. The earliest saws (such as the D-30, D-36, and D-44) instead had a large tensioner screw in the bar pad portion of the fuel or oil tank (depending on whether it was a front tank or top tank saw). This large screw had a VERY large head that fit into a 'thumbnail' slot cut into the bar (which you'll see in a few of my bar pics). This tensioner style difference has nothing to do with the oiler hole/slot changes in bar plates or bar patterns.
 

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