McCulloch Chain Saws

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I would suspect that's what he is doing then... how much is he asking for it? the right price for the saw (55, 1-80, etc.) or a price that would be good for something even smaller than that?

this guy starts off at 99cents but has it up fore a long time
 
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Yeah, I found those auctions tend to go up and up and up... hope the saw is the real thing for whoever buys it... I think it may not be.

ya it takes a wile to get a reply and he really doesn't give a good answer I asked if it had spark and if the recoil was good he finely replied with the recoil is their -- that's it -- go to page 514 2nd post (watsonr) he posted it and look
 
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ya it takes a wile to get a reply and he really doesn't give a good answer I asked if it had spark and if the recoil was good he finely replied with the recoil is their -- that's it

Either this guy doesn't know what he is doing or he is trying to cover something up. Sounds like no spark to me... either way, if you happen to get the saw for cheap, it's worth it, I think. :) If a bunch of other morons pop in a start bidding up and crazy, I'd get the hell out of there on the grounds that he really might be ripping someone off.

If he can't supply the number off of the bottom of the case, something's up. Can't tell you whether there is a spark or not, something's up. Either he doesn't know what he's doing, or he is covering important information up.

If he is a 'new' seller with low to mid ratings, I'd avoid it. If he's a 'older' seller with good ratings, go for it, you probably will not be disappointed.

Looked at the listing... seems legitimate. He specifically states for parts or repair, so it likely has a weak spark, low compression, etc. depending on how long it sat in what type of environment.
 
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got a points saw that won't fire. Heres the story;

points have been gaped at .020 and nicely polished. I verified with a continuity tester that the points break right at the timing mark on the flywheel, lower limb of the coil. On/Off switch is working correctly. Plug wire was remade with a new wire, firmly seated in the coil and plug boot. Plug gapped at .025 and nice bright metal at the electrode. The opening where the points wire goes thru the body of the saw is not touching the case to ground it out. My spark tester shows good spark thru the glass window when I pull the starter.

It has a new fuel filter and fuel line, impulse hose checked for cracks. The carb is clean and diaphragm is supple and installed correctly. It does put fuel thru the muffler after a bunch of pulls, not flooding just some spray on the muffler that evaporates very fast. I also tried squirting some fuel thru the carb throat just to make sure she was getting fuel.

It will not run, it has 145lbs compression, tried both compression release on and off. Unhooked the on/off switch.

Question; the points wire attached the the left side and on/off switch is attached to the right side of the coil or are they both attached to the same side? The IPL does not show this and I don't have the shop manual, but I do believe I've got it right, coil on the left, on/off on the right. My thumb is on the left side of the coil in this picture. I've swapped the condenser for another to eliminate that potential and the wiring from the coil to the points just to make sure. Air gap set at a business card, measured it at .011, no rust on the magnet or laminated pick-up arm.

100MEDIA_IMAG0218.jpg


What say you?

Try a different plug

Heres why-I don't know why, but some plugs won't fire under compression. The spark tester will read its firing, as its grounded, but theres no spark at the electrodes under pressure (compression). Had it happen again a week or so ago, saw would not start, check for fuel on the plug, check for spark, checked compression, saw ran in the shop, took it to the woods, fired and died, would not start, fired and died again at the shop, preformed all the above tests and then tried a different plug. Viola!

Moms uncle had a McCulloch dealership, and had some clear tester box for plugs, and showed me once (I was about 12) that a plug from the package, cellophane rapped, fired until he increased the pressure in the cylinder to about 75lbs, and it quit, and would fire again when the pressure dropped. He had a five pound coffee can filled with "new" plugs.
 
Either this guy doesn't know what he is doing or he is trying to cover something up. Sounds like no spark to me... either way, if you happen to get the saw for cheap, it's worth it, I think. :) If a bunch of other morons pop in a start bidding up and crazy, I'd get the hell out of there on the grounds that he really might be ripping someone off.

If he can't supply the number off of the bottom of the case, something's up. Can't tell you whether there is a spark or not, something's up. Either he doesn't know what he's doing, or he is covering important information up.

If he is a 'new' seller with low to mid ratings, I'd avoid it. If he's a 'older' seller with good ratings, go for it, you probably will not be disappointed.

I already got out it looks like crap anyway and I got jacked 2x by "good sellers" before but if you are looking fore parts try Dozerdude he didn't notes the part he sent was broken so he sent me a nos to replace it and sent my payment back and sent the replacement priority mail he really went overboard to make things rite
 
I already got out it looks like crap anyway and I got jacked 2x by "good sellers" before but if you are looking fore parts try Dozerdude he didn't notes the part he sent was broken so he sent me a nos to replace it and sent my payment back and sent the replacement priority mail he really went overboard to make things rite

I will have to remember Dozerdude. :) So far I've had good luck with top rated and good rated sellers. There are some out there that rip off when they can. Hope I don't run into one.
 
To my knowledge, there were no "standard" 125's. They were either CP125's or SP125's. Do you have the model/serial # tag? The Acres listings have the model numbers listed for these saws.

Acres' listing for the CP125 and CP125S:

Model Profile: CP 125

Model Profile: CP 125S

Acres' listings for the SP125 and SP125C:

Model Profile: Super Pro 125

Model Profile: Super Pro125C

Tomorrow afternoon I'll look in my IPL's for the block #'s of the CP and SP saws. Off to hit the rack now. Gotta get up at 0400...

My tag in the airbox shows it is a SP125 as it is 600076 with serial number 11-11054

I will post a picture of the muffler later(Mark)

My model has all yellow covers on it I think and I see Marks posted one has black on it. Which one is the earlier model?

Has there ever been a best quessed HP on these units?
 
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I will have to remember Dozerdude. :) So far I've had good luck with top rated and good rated sellers. There are some out there that rip off when they can. Hope I don't run into one.

had a deal last Feb. with a big g-drive homelite with a bo-bar said all their and original has spark but kneads a little work to get running he had 1 picture I asked fore more pictures and asked several questions --- he sent pictures after I bid on saw and they looked ok but he did-it so it didn't show any flaws in the saw --- well I got the saw and wen it got hear well to put it short their wasn't a usable part on the saw and it was falling apart and made up of 3 different saws just pest together even the bar was welded badly -- he was a top rated seller but I ha vent found his name since that time
 
I will have to remember Dozerdude. :) So far I've had good luck with top rated and good rated sellers. There are some out there that rip off when they can. Hope I don't run into one.

ya he seems to be a very honest seller I sent the money back to him he treated me real good I probably should-have sent him more tho
 
Well ladies, Eccentric, RandyMac, and spiders, I got that flywheel off. :blob2:

Now I just gotta clean off my workbench... it has lots of shavings from the 350 porting process... I don't want engine pieces sitting in that crap, so the engine will remain assembled until I can get that mess cleaned up. Too busy at this time, maybe later this week.
 
My tag in the airbox shows it is a SP125 as it is 600076 with serial number 11-11054

I will post a picture of the muffler later(Mark)

My model has all yellow covers on it I think and I see Marks posted one has black on it. Which one is the earlier model?

Has there ever been a best quessed HP on these units?

I think the SP125 is my favorite saw of all time. There seems to be several different paint schemes. Also, there are two different sticker arrangements on the air filter cover. Some have the embossed cover, and some have a sticker on top. Supposedly the SP125C is a bit detuned for easier running. Maybe about 9 HP I think. The rare saws that are equipped with the 101B motors can easily have 12+ HP. Don't be confused by the numbers. The 101B is the same displacement (123 cc), but was designed for go-kart racing.

Here is mine. This is the color scheme that it had when I got it, but it has been repainted.

024.jpg


022.jpg
 
Try a different plug

Heres why-I don't know why, but some plugs won't fire under compression. The spark tester will read its firing, as its grounded, but theres no spark at the electrodes under pressure (compression). Had it happen again a week or so ago, saw would not start, check for fuel on the plug, check for spark, checked compression, saw ran in the shop, took it to the woods, fired and died, would not start, fired and died again at the shop, preformed all the above tests and then tried a different plug. Viola!

Moms uncle had a McCulloch dealership, and had some clear tester box for plugs, and showed me once (I was about 12) that a plug from the package, cellophane rapped, fired until he increased the pressure in the cylinder to about 75lbs, and it quit, and would fire again when the pressure dropped. He had a five pound coffee can filled with "new" plugs.

+1 I agree try another plug.
 
I think the SP125 is my favorite saw of all time. There seems to be several different paint schemes. Also, there are two different sticker arrangements on the air filter cover. Some have the embossed cover, and some have a sticker on top. Supposedly the SP125C is a bit detuned for easier running. Maybe about 9 HP I think. The rare saws that are equipped with the 101B motors can easily have 12+ HP. Don't be confused by the numbers. The 101B is the same displacement (123 cc), but was designed for go-kart racing.

Here is mine. This is the color scheme that it had when I got it, but it has been repainted.

024.jpg


022.jpg

Saw looks great. How do you tell if it is the 101B engine? Is it noted differently on the tag?
 
Saw looks great. How do you tell if it is the 101B engine? Is it noted differently on the tag?

Thanks. The 101B has a removable head, and often no compression release. Somebody on here just bought a beautiful one a few days ago. I actually picked one up, that needs to be gone through. The carb doesn't want to work properly.

Another note on the SP125 is that it most often uses the Tillotson carb with the fixed H jet. Mine runs great, but the fixed carb sort of gives it away that the saw is not performance tuned. The 101B motors have a Walbro SDC carb.
 
Thanks. The 101B has a removable head, and often no compression release. Somebody on here just bought a beautiful one a few days ago. I actually picked one up, that needs to be gone through. The carb doesn't want to work properly.

Another note on the SP125 is that it most often uses the Tillotson carb with the fixed H jet. Mine runs great, but the fixed carb sort of gives it away that the saw is not performance tuned. The 101B motors have a Walbro SDC carb.

I will have to go look at mine for the jet. So that means only low screw and idle setting?
 

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