McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

The Supers are the last of a long line of hot-rod 87cc McCullochs, you need one Ron.

I need another saw like I need another hole in my head... but maybe a swap is in order, hmmm. Ron

 

[Warped5]

I need another saw like I need another hole in my head... but maybe a swap is in order, hmmm. Ron

Do it, Ron .... Super 250s are 'in a club' all their own!

 

[rwoods]

Ya gotta beat my 14 SD166's at once.




Lee

FOUL. Not fair. Unsportsmanlike conduct. One SD166 at idle is enough to send even a MAC man's heart into arrhythmia. 14 at once is just wrong. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Do it, Ron .... Super 250s are 'in a club' all their own!

I've always been a loner. :msp_sad: Ron

 

[mad murdock]

Have fun topping Joey. [video=youtube;DZbOUxKlHN4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZbOUxKlHN4[/video] Ron

That vid about crashed my iPod! Too kewl for words!

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Just told they fit the SP125 mount, which is most Macs of that time. If I can get them at a decent price that is. Gaurds hard to find if they're not on them?

Check for cracks and wear at the cutting end of the Bow bar.
Guards can be found or made. Mac Bow bars are harder to
find then Homelite or Poulan. So there worth getting them, You can sell the ones you
don't use. The bucking bars came with guards and holes drilled for them.

Some of the older clearing Bow bars like this one on the SP125 did not
come with guards, There were no holes drilled for guards.

 

[psuiewalsh]

Ya gotta beat my 14 SD166's at once.




Lee

You have the link to that?

 

[leeha]

You have the link to that?

Look in the best sounding saw thread.



Lee

 

[JRHAWK9]

"over center" clip

OK, I am replacing the auto oiler pump on one of my 10-10's. There is a retaining clip of some sorts that looks to be there to hold the back of the pump in position, as the pump has only one mounting bolt and that's towards the front. How exactly does this "clip" into position? It has two little "flanges" on the top which fit into the two holes on the pump. Do I simply just align those "flanges" up with the two holes in the pump and then use a screw driver to push on the center of the clip until it applies upward pressure to the rear of the pump and "jams" itself between the floor of the reservoir and pump? I guess I want to know the proper way to install that clip.


thanks!

 

[heimannm]

JR - you have the idea. The McBulletin with the kit suggest using a rubber band to hold the retainer in place as you install the pump.

Some very early versions had two additional screws through the top of the tank into the base of the auto oiler. From the IPL's that I have all of the 2-10 through 6-10 were set up this way.

Starting with the 7-10 they used the oil pump with a retainer "spring" on the top that pressed against the bottom of the oil tank.

I have a PM700 IPL dated 1987 that shows the retainer clip you mention.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Here is the 640 bow project I am hoping to get cleaned up and running before Baraboo this weekend. I could not find a "before" photo of the saw together but you get the idea. The fuel tank was really bad, lots of thick, sticky varnish and sludge in the bottom, some came out in the parts washer but finally they had to be bead blasted to really clean them up right.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

After some cleaning.

A few more small parts to clean up then try to get it back together.

I'm not going for the NOS look, just clean it up, replace what's needed, and make it run again. As you may have picked up, someone already switched the McCulloch flat back out for a Tillotson HL but the parts fit very nicely and it looks like it should work just fine.

Mark

 

[Chris Crouse]

Bar Prices?!

What is the story with the price of bars for (I assume) the 10 series saws? Baileys has a decent selection but prices range from $40 to $140 bucks for 16-36" bars. What are you guys doing for bars?

Also, if anyone cares to share the shop manual for the 10 series I would be thankful. I got a Pro Mac 850 and I want to get it fixed up nice.

 

[tomdcoker]

If you will PM me your email address I will try to send you a copy. Sometimes I am able to do this and sometimes not. Tom

 

[Arcticwolf]

Mac 10-10

My dad gave me his Mac 10-10 around 20 years ago. I used it off and on during that time then it sat in my shop for about 5 years.
It had a 16" bar on it when my dad had it, I put a 20" bar on it around 15 years ago.

I recently pulled it off the shelf, put some fuel and bar oil in it and it fired up second pull.
Cut a few trees around the yard and then couldn't get it started again.

Ordered a couple of new fuel filters, fuel line, carb rebuild kit, plugs and a new Oregon, chisel tooth chain.
Compression is great so I'm hoping the carb kit will do the trick. Spark is OK but doesn't seem to be bluish so I may need to address that also.

I'd like to have the Mac around for larger diameter stuff and as a backup.
Love the sound of it too.

Just bought a Husky 445 for smaller trees, limbing and occasional firewood cutting.
If I can get the Mac running dependably, I think the saws will compliment each other and cover what I need to cut.

 

[rwoods]

MAC are great at packing in a lot of generational memories. Ron

 

[Warped5]

My dad gave me his Mac 10-10 around 20 years ago. I used it off and on during that time then it sat in my shop for about 5 years.
It had a 16" bar on it when my dad had it, I put a 20" bar on it around 15 years ago.

I recently pulled it off the shelf, put some fuel and bar oil in it and it fired up second pull.
Cut a few trees around the yard and then couldn't get it started again.

Ordered a couple of new fuel filters, fuel line, carb rebuild kit, plugs and a new Oregon, chisel tooth chain.
Compression is great so I'm hoping the carb kit will do the trick. Spark is OK but doesn't seem to be bluish so I may need to address that also.

I'd like to have the Mac around for larger diameter stuff and as a backup.
Love the sound of it too.

Just bought a Husky 445 for smaller trees, limbing and occasional firewood cutting.
If I can get the Mac running dependably, I think the saws will compliment each other and cover what I need to cut.

Welcome to AS!

You'll find that the 10-10 have torque that belie their size.

I have friends that interpret 'lots of torque' as equalling 'lack of speed' ...

... but my 10-10 saws will go places theirs can only dream of.

 

[JRHAWK9]

10-10 Oiler Issues

I have an interesting issue. One of my 10-10's doesn't oil very well, but the manual oiler works fine. I pulled the B&C off and monitored oil flow while running (after I primed it manually so I know all the air was out), it seems to work some at idle but it doesn't really increase much at all when increasing and holding steady RPM's. I can rev it up and down and it really doesn't change from a slow drip. This is with the oiler set wide open (screw out as far as it will go). When I then go to use the manual one it takes a few squirts for it to prime itself again....WTF? I just primed it before but somehow air got back in the line in the 45 seconds it was running...? I then decided to swap auto oilers with another 10-10 which I know works good. I put that oiler in and it basically did the same thing. I then put it back in the donor saw where it came from and it works like it's supposed to again. It has a steady stream of oil when holding higher rpm's, like I would expect. What would cause a known good pump not to work in one saw but works great in another? I checked the check valve in the pickup line by sucking on the screened end and I created vacuum. I blew in it and it and it blew out fine.

Are there any check valves or any other valves in the passage ways of the case?

Any ideas?? Can one saw just give better "impulses" which drives the oiler better than another saw?

thanks!

 

[promac850]

I have an interesting issue. One of my 10-10's doesn't oil very well, but the manual oiler works fine. I pulled the B&C off and monitored oil flow while running (after I primed it manually so I know all the air was out), it seems to work some at idle but it doesn't really increase much at all when increasing and holding steady RPM's. I can rev it up and down and it really doesn't change from a slow drip. This is with the oiler set wide open (screw out as far as it will go). When I then go to use the manual one it takes a few squirts for it to prime itself again....WTF? I just primed it before but somehow air got back in the line in the 45 seconds it was running...? I then decided to swap auto oilers with another 10-10 which I know works good. I put that oiler in and it basically did the same thing. I then put it back in the donor saw where it came from and it works like it's supposed to again. It has a steady stream of oil when holding higher rpm's, like I would expect. What would cause a known good pump not to work in one saw but works great in another? I checked the check valve in the pickup line by sucking on the screened end and I created vacuum. I blew in it and it and it blew out fine.

Are there any check valves or any other valves in the passage ways of the case?

Any ideas?? Can one saw just give better "impulses" which drives the oiler better than another saw?

thanks!

I dunno, but I'm having a bit of a problem with bar oil getting into the crankcase on my 850. It burned bar oil from day one. No wonder I felt a little sick after running it and no wonder it went through bar oil a bit faster than it should've.

Seems like these may just be a bit finicky. Wish the would've designed the system a little better so it wouldn't be such a problem.

 

[Arcticwolf]

Welcome to AS!

You'll find that the 10-10 have torque that belie their size.

I have friends that interpret 'lots of torque' as equalling 'lack of speed' ...

... but my 10-10 saws will go places theirs can only dream of.

Thanks for the welcome!

Oiler on my Mac 10-10 works fine ...
... as long as my thumb doesn't give out