McCulloch Chain Saws

[fechtichmac]

1-60

New Addition:
Starts,runs and cuts very well!
The only issue -the clutch shoes are rattly and noisy when idling.Clutch works,doesnt slip.
Dont know how to remove the clutch to avoid any damage?

thanks for looking!

E.

 

[sawfun9]

That CP125 wont even work up a sweat, not that the 125's do, with a 36" in any maple or oak. I think you'll find your gonna want more bar on it. Then the hunt is on for bigger wood so it can really chew.

 

[heimannm]

fechtichmac - First step is to remove the retaining ring, then the friction disc behind it. The retaining ring will simply pop right out, then the friction disc will lift out. There are two holes in the clutch spider that are tapped for 8-32 screws. I have a heavy washer with two holes that line up with the threaded holes in the clutch. With the nut removed, install two 8-32 screws through the washer then use your gear puller to pop the clutch free. Once the clutch is off, remove the key from the crankshaft before attempting to remove the clutch drum. Be advised that the clutch runs "wet" in the gear box lubricant so position the saw on it's side with the gear box up to prevent oil from leaking out all over.

There are different diameter retaining rings that can be installed to accommodate wear in the clutch. Your clanging clutch shoes may simply be a symptom of worn shoes and the need for a larger (wire) diameter ring. They came in wire diameters of 0.040, 0.047, 0.055, 0.063, 0.071, 0.080, 0.090, 0.106, and 0.118"

PM me with an e-mail address if you would like an IPL for the 1-60 saws.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Two weeks ago I "won" an e-bay auction for a binder and a large collection of McCulloch IPL's. I sorted through them today and found original copies for at least 5 or 6 saws that I didn't have on hand already including the mysterious CP80DX. There were also a number of blowers, generators, pumps, electric saws, and an electric McCulloch branded log splitter.

After sorting through those, I decided to get started on the Service Bulletins that I acquired a couple of years ago to see just what all I had. They run from the very early saws up through the late 70's by the looks of it.

At this point I am about 1/3 of the way through all of them and trying to figure out the best way to organize them. The first batches are already bound in groups (from #10 up through #242) but the balance are all separate sheets from #1000 and ending with #1627. Initially I am thinking of grouping them according to small saws (PM6 & MM), 10 Series, large saws, other saws, and the grouped bulletins that do not apply to one model in particular. It will be a very impressive collection once I get them all sorted out but now, how to make use of it all??? There are a two indexes included but they don't cover the entire range.

Of course the ideal arrangement would be to scan them all and organize them electronically, now that sounds like a lot of extra work...

Mark

 

[ozflea]

Two weeks ago I "won" an e-bay auction for a binder and a large collection of McCulloch IPL's. I sorted through them today and found original copies for at least 5 or 6 saws that I didn't have on hand already including the mysterious CP80DX. There were also a number of blowers, generators, pumps, electric saws, and an electric McCulloch branded log splitter.

After sorting through those, I decided to get started on the Service Bulletins that I acquired a couple of years ago to see just what all I had. They run from the very early saws up through the late 70's by the looks of it.

At this point I am about 1/3 of the way through all of them and trying to figure out the best way to organize them. The first batches are already bound in groups (from #10 up through #242) but the balance are all separate sheets from #1000 and ending with #1627. Initially I am thinking of grouping them according to small saws (PM6 & MM), 10 Series, large saws, other saws, and the grouped bulletins that do not apply to one model in particular. It will be a very impressive collection once I get them all sorted out but now, how to make use of it all??? There are a two indexes included but they don't cover the entire range.

Of course the ideal arrangement would be to scan them all and organize them electronically, now that sounds like a lot of extra work...

Mark

Go on you have long lifetime ahead of you whats a few months

McBob

 

[fechtichmac]

fechtichmac - First step is to remove the retaining ring, then the friction disc behind it. The retaining ring will simply pop right out, then the friction disc will lift out. There are two holes in the clutch spider that are tapped for 8-32 screws. I have a heavy washer with two holes that line up with the threaded holes in the clutch. With the nut removed, install two 8-32 screws through the washer then use your gear puller to pop the clutch free. Once the clutch is off, remove the key from the crankshaft before attempting to remove the clutch drum. Be advised that the clutch runs "wet" in the gear box lubricant so position the saw on it's side with the gear box up to prevent oil from leaking out all over.

There are different diameter retaining rings that can be installed to accommodate wear in the clutch. Your clanging clutch shoes may simply be a symptom of worn shoes and the need for a larger (wire) diameter ring. They came in wire diameters of 0.040, 0.047, 0.055, 0.063, 0.071, 0.080, 0.090, 0.106, and 0.118"

PM me with an e-mail address if you would like an IPL for the 1-60 saws.

Mark

Hallo!

So I thougt to do this .Sure I have simply overlooked the threads in the clutch Spider!
I´ll first try a thicker retaining ring,maybe this helps.

Thanks for great description!!

E.

 

[Eccentric]

Great find Mark! When you scan that CP-80DX IPL I'd sure like to see it. Is that the 'prototype' 82cc saw (which led to the SP-80)?

 

[fechtichmac]

View attachment 297177View attachment 297178

Hallo!

So I thougt to do this .Sure I have simply overlooked the threads in the clutch Spider!
I´ll first try a thicker retaining ring,maybe this helps.

Thanks for great description!!

E.

Hi!

Finally found the threaded holes on the backside and could easyly get the clutch off.
Shoes are worn -this saws are 54 years old!Will make a 3mm retaining ring,this has the 2mm ring.

Reg.

E.

 

[dieselsmoke]

6 Cubes

A neighbor found some yellow gold in his barn, I traded him a perfectly good older firewood saw that I just wasn't in love with, (and no Aarron is WASN'T that Homelite) for two top tank mccullochs. The nicest one is a 740, all of the parts were intact, I just had to clean, clean, and more clean, and dress the points. Got it to fire that evening.

The bar and 404 chain are in descent shape, good enough for a "for show" type of saw.

 

[Eccentric]

Great score Brad! Do you need a Mac starter handle for that 740? The non-Mac handle has GOT to go.

Glad you mentioned that H saw. That reminds me to throw the 10-10A in the truck for you (you're still going to the PNW GTG right?). Probably would have slipped my mind. May want to remind me again a few days before THE weekend...

Bring your Super 250. I'm bringing mine, and I'll bug RandyMac and Fraser to bring theirs. Let's see how many S-250's we can have running at once.

 

[dieselsmoke]

The #2 saw isn't so perfect, nasty oxidation in the airbox, no recoil, no B & C, no compression, and lots of black carbon on the muff. side of the cylinder. The muffler is shot. But, on the bottom it's stamped "790" So this one gets to come apart.
The end gap at the rings looked like .100 or so, I cant' imagine how this thing ever ran. The black soot was everywhere.

But the bore looks nice, the piston measures up to be good,

Parts are ordered...

 

[dieselsmoke]

hey Aarron, I need prob. two mac start handles, If you've got spares??
And sure i'll bring the Ol Super, It needs to get warmed up, I don't think Ive cut with is since last year!
Homelite 850, coming your way..

 

[dieselsmoke]

Mac 790

Fast forward to two weeks later, parts have arrived. Two new crank seals, one crank bearing, new rings (oversize). Lots of cleaning on the cylinder, man that thing was carboned up. I plan to put it together with some parts from an older 740 that just sits of the shelf.

 

[jeepyfz450]

That CP125 wont even work up a sweat, not that the 125's do, with a 36" in any maple or oak. I think you'll find your gonna want more bar on it. Then the hunt is on for bigger wood so it can really chew.

lol yup. I was running it and the lower av mount broke so its time for a new one. i bet this saw would pull a 50'' bar nicely.

 

[Eccentric]

hey Aarron, I need prob. two mac start handles, If you've got spares??
And sure i'll bring the Ol Super, It needs to get warmed up, I don't think Ive cut with is since last year!
Homelite 850, coming your way..

Not sure if I have two good spares, but if I do I'll bring 'em for you. Got at least one. Not perfect, but a good serviceable original. Again..............better remind me sometime around Tues-Wed before the GTG weekend. I'm leaving for RandyMac's place on that Thursday...

 

[sawfun9]

I just got one of my 101B's going an hour and a half ago, Wow, I've never heard one of those things. they don't sound at all like a 125 or 797, much more deep and raspy. It sounds like a serious dirt bike. My other one will take a while longer to get done. I'm going to try to run a 36" bar with .404 and an 8 pin sprocket.

 

[joeymt33]

I just got one of my 101B's going an hour and a half ago, Wow, I've never heard one of those things. they don't sound at all like a 125 or 797, much more deep and raspy. It sounds like a serious dirt bike. My other one will take a while longer to get done. I'm going to try to run a 36" bar with .404 and an 8 pin sprocket.

We need a video for proof!

 

[fechtichmac]

1-60

View attachment 297403View attachment 297404

Opened up the gearcase for cleaning out the old oil as well for beeing sure there is no debris from the wornout
clutch shoes.Looks great inside gears and bearings good.Also the gasket has survived.

Regards

E.

 

[boda65]

D36 carb

Does anyone know what kind of carb they used in the D36? I've not seen one like this and suspect it may have been unique to the D30/D36. The fuel pump diaphragm and gasket seem to be unobtanium, but amazingly when I checked my small stash of inventory I bought out from an ace hardware store, I happened to have one diaphragm and 2 gaskets for it. Just missing the metering diaphragm 55067. Unlike the other diaphragm and gasket, it matches the number for the diaphragm in the flatback. I hope I don't have to buy a whole flatback kit just for that diaphragm. Anyways, the problem is that the saw seems to be stupid rich, and doesn't seem to respond to adjustment. I really can't think of anything but the carb that would cause that.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/234023.htm

 

[Eccentric]

That's one of the weird "early flatback" McCulloch diaphragm carbs. Was their first attempt at using something other than a Tillotson HL.............before the later "flatbacks" that we're more familiar with.